I bought a ZPI Racing S-Pipe. The quality is great except the flange that mounts to the header doesn't allow you to use the factory bolts with the springs you have to use regular bolts, but this isn't my problem that I had. I removed the old S-Pipe then bolted this one up. I went to take the oxygen sensor out of the old S-Pipe this is where I had the problems! I have been a mechanic for 8 years now this is the first oxygen sensor I have ever had any issues with. It broke loose so I figured everything is good and I got a 1/4 turn on the O2 smoothly then it stopped so I tighten it slightly and went to loosen it back up and it did the same thing. I kept working it back and forth. I finally heated the pipe (mechanics trick) until it got red hot then I kept working the sensor in and out 1/4 by 1/4 I got it out and looked at the threads to reveal they are still in the old pipe! All the threads gone! I have never had a oxygen sensor give me any problems, whats really screwed up the car only has 500 miles on it. I am not sure exactly what caused this these are the only reasons this would happen the installers didn't use anti-seize (very unlikely being the cause b/c of the low miles), the installer striped it while installing and said screw it, its in ( possible but unlikely) the type of metal used for the 02 bung is extremely sensitive to heat. I am pretty sure its definitely the metal caused the problem. I hope the dealer will be cool and replace to sensor under warranty but unlikely. I priced the sensor from the dealer 204.89 plus tax and shipping (if they charged for shipping)! I hope this doesn't ever happen to anyone. So I wanted to let everyone know this to be careful. If I was doing this over I would have paid the dealer there small fee to install this so they would have seen in no way this was my fault and should be changed under warranty. I will contact them in the morning I am going to take to pipe to them also just to see if they will replace under warranty.

 

I don't think it should because your the one that took out the O2 sensor. what r u going to say, uh...it fell out?

I'm not being an ___ about it, but look like everyone's having a problem with the header O2 and the S-Pipe 02. oh well..let us know how it turns out

 

Sounds like a bum deal but the dealer isn't going to warranty you changing out pipes and removing the sensor.

 

Sorry to hear about this. The tC has two sensors, the sensor on the header which is $230 ish and the other one on the S-Pipe, if I remember correctly this one does not cost that much. The dealer may be confused and looked up the wrong sensor.
The one on the header is a common issue and not a warrantable item. WD-40 soaking and a complete cool down may have done the trick. The metal that is used for the MAF sensor looks like some type of pot metal against a steel pipe.
I have never heard of a S-Pipe issue with the sensor.

As to the ZPI S-Pipe, I have seen several types of S-Pipes in the market. Some have the OEM style flange with a rolled lip and others that have a large steel flange.
The hardware with the ZPI pipe fits the thread pattern on the Scion stock/DC/Alphawerks etc headers. The stock spring loaded bolts are not long enough to use with large flanged connections.

I have installed the Custom Compacts and the ZPI S-Pipes, they all install in about a half hour with not issues using stock or included hardware.

 

Ouch, I had 6500 miles on my car when i took mine out. Car was still warm used some mechanics gloves and an open adjustable wrench, took maybe 2 min.

 

I've worked on cars for not half that time, and I've always been told NEVER to heat up O2 sensors. If they are so sensitive to heat, why did you heat it up?

Regardless, I see no reason for them to warranty it. If you wanted your warranty, you should have paid them to change the S-Pipe.

 

Yeah same year. Using an adjustable wrench I've done 3 diff tCs, all three re-doing the top for a new header. 2 tCs with the S-Pipe sensor taken out (1 being mine, which I've down about 6 times now).
I've never had a single problem. All I did was let it cool down (for the most part), soak with WD-40 and let that sit for a few minutes. It came right out after that.

Did you use WD-40 on yours or just yank it lose?

 

he used WD-Blowtorch lol

Sorry, toyota scion tc but I think you just f'd up

 

I've heard that only about 1 in 4 Scion tC's have had anti-seize used on that sensor. With the factory S-Pipe being a cheaper metal, I don't think heat would be good for it.

ZPI can get you a much better deal on a replacement 02 sensor, about half that of the dealership. Try maybe giving them a call. Good luck man.

 

Hmm....same thing happened to me, but it was during my header instead....turned a quarter inch then wouldn't budge. Don't buy the "OEM type" O2 sensor, get the generic type for it.
The only difference between the two is the OEM type comes prewired, IMHO its not worth the extra 160 dollars.

Its four wires, I've had a Bosch on for 1000k, works absolutely perfect. Also at the auto stores they will tell you they only have the upstream but not the downstream 02 sensor, that's BS they are the same part.
I've never had a problem getting the O2 sensor out before in any other car I've worked on.
Hit me up if you need the wiring diagram for the 4 wires i will see if i cant find it. I think it is 2 wires for heater, one is signal and the other ground. Good luck with whatever you do.

 

Question:

If I just get a header back exhaust with the new S-Pipe do I have to replace the cat on the new S-Pipe? I thought it was only if i replace the header......Does the O2/anti-fouler go on the header or the S-Pipe when replace the header??
I am kind of lost here....I want to buy a new exhaust kit but if getting a new S-Pipe involves replacing the O2 then i might wait until i get the header later??? Someone fill me in!!!

 

Don't worry about the 02 sensor seizing, its a rare case. I'm pretty sure no anti-seize was used on either of my sensor...I'm going to have fun installing my S-Pipe...........
If you want to do the anti-fouler mod it will need to be down on your downstream O2 sensor (one on the S-Pipe) there is a couple good walk throughs floating around our forum if you do a little searching.
Also the cat is actually integrated into the stock exhaust manifold, so you don't need to worry about the S-Pipe, the second cat is after the s-pipe. I hope this helps a little.

 

As stated above, there is a pre cat in the stock exhaust manifold, and the main cat is after the s-pipe.

as long as you don't have an aftermarket header, you will NOT need to do the anti-fouler trick.

Once you install a header, then you will have to do the anti-fouler trick on the S-pipe's bung.

The anti-fouler is on the S-pipe, not the header!

Say for instance, if you for Draaxas S-pipe and back exhaust, you would NOT need to do the anti-fouler in the S-pipe because you don't have an aftermarket header. You will have a complete aftermarket exhaust system minus the header.
Once you install a header, you will need to add an anti-fouler on the S-pipe. Also when you install the aftermarket header, your exhaust system will work 100% better... much better flow through out the system.

hope I helped

Update: my Draxas Exhaust is shipping today without the S-pipe (the S-pipe is on back order), pics and sound clips soon to come!

 

When I said sensitive to heat I meant the 02 bung not the O2 sensor. I did try to remove the sensor when the pipe was cold and it did not work. Heat expands metal this is why I carefully heated up the bung not the sensor to try to get it out. Cold shrinks metal.

And ScottsdaleTC there isn't a MAF (Mass Airflow sensor) in exhaust systems they are in intakes. I talked to a few dealers and they have there own nickname for the header mounted oxygen sensor and it is fuel ration sensor they did this not to confuse the two.
The oxygen sensor in the header is a wideband. The oxygen sensor located in the s-pipe is a standard heated oxygen sensor. Either way you look at it they are both Oxygen sensors one wideband and one standard heated O2 sensor. And yes I am aware that the Wideband sensor is also a heated sensor!