http://creativecompacts.com/Merchant...ormancePulleys

I was browsing through CreativeCompacts.com and noticed this little peice. I read the description and was pretty amazed by the alleged hp and torque increases.

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of this type of upgrade?

Thanks!

 

There is no increase in torque or horsepower. There's a decrease in parasitic drag, but there are consequences to that too.

It also dispenses with your torsional vibration damper because it's a solid pulley. Despite all Shawn Baumgartner's (president, Unorthodox Racing) promises, if it breaks something on your engine, Toyco will call your warranty void, and Shawn only covers defects in materials and workmanship on the pulley.

You might want to think about the risk before you do it. Personally, I wouldn't run one on my dog's lawnmower. Too risky.

 

Yea, what he said ^, lol, lo_box, you have 2 much damn info in that head of yours or wherever you get it, ha, good lookin out

 

Do it but dont get the underdrive! My car runs fine. Im guessing it will always run fine. lol

 

I am not sure about the warrenty but I would belive what lo_box_racer says about that. As far is the power gains he doesn't know what he is saying. You will see some power gains how significant depends on the design,weight,load put on the oe pulley to power the accesories. The pulley being smaller rotates more using less energy to turn your power steering,a/c,alternator. Also reducing the weight of this pulley helps out, the reduction of weight isn't as significant as a lightened flywheel but it is there. The engine will have to use less energy to spool up ( accelerating or reving faster). Our engines are built with vibration shafts internally unlike older engine that depened on harmonic balancer pulley ( or crankshaft pulley) to balance the engine. I hope this helps. In simple terms it does help by accelerating faster b/c of lighter rotating mass and less parasitic drag ( alt, a/c, p/s).

 

Yeah, that's what Guilly Polo, Saad Saad, Mark Tozer, and Michael Gaari said. Then Guilly's crank position wheel rotated off TDC and the engine wouldn't even start. Michael Gaari's did sort of the same thing, but it would be working one minute and not working the next minute while driving down the road. Lance at Toyomoto in Miami (NOT me) saw flexplate bolts backing out for no apparent reason.

Then Kean **** came out with a modified Rattler that is SFI approved for racing and works just like the OEM damper to reduce 400 hz vibration. Titan was right behind them because at the kind of power they make, they risked breaking cranks every weekend.

It might work a week, a month, a year, a couple of years. It might grind your counterbalancer gears to mush in 30k miles, or break your oil pump chain (yeah, did you know the oil pump in the 2AZ is chain driven?) or any number of other things. And of course the dead obvious one, it may cause damage to your engine's main bearings.

So, enjoy. I pity the poor sucker who buys your used car in a few years.

 

As always, lo_bux our resident guru always providing strong advise to us. I really do appreciate what you are doing for us neo-tuners, so-to-speak.

The flywheel sounds like a better way to go. Sounds like a nice upgrade, but with my limited experience I would be forced to take it to a mechanic to get installed. Gets a bit pricey, but I will save up if its really worth it. How long would it take for a mechanic to switch out a flywheel? How much are lightened flywheels go for these days?

Off-topic on this Lo_bux -- do you have any insights on the engine dampening kits? I see a lot of dissatisfaction from users due to the vibrations. Other than this kit, is there any other method of dampening the inherent engine rock on these tC's? Someone mentioned a strut bar to me once...

 

I think I love lance.

 

Titan sells the Fidanza for $379. If you do a group buy, as we did at YSTC.com, the price will come down a lot. We got ours for $249 each, and at least 4 of us bought them.

Book time for an install is (I think) 6.0 hours. It takes a little less than 3 after you've done one or two.

I am with Rick (raamaudio) on the whole damper issue. Sure, it's easy to put a damper on top of the engine, but I'd rather go to the source and fix it there, so I'm planning to pull out the engine mounts and fill them with polyurethane. There have to be enough wrecked tCs by now to get a set from the junkyard. I figure I'll just get a set, fill them, let them cure and put them in. Once I've done that, then I can decide about a damper.

I'm also not convinced the damper needs to work in two directions, but that's another post, and a lot more thought before I say any more.

 

I can tell you from personal experience that I have never had a problem as a result of pulleys that I have used on several of my own cars in the past few years.

Despite all the theoretical arguments that I have read over and over again on the net, I have never seen anyone say "I put a pulley on and saw my block fail as a result"

The UR is ok, but why would anyone get the UR unit when they can get one from NST for less than 100 bucks? NST also has accessory pulleys for the tC and is also building some stuff for the TRD SC (all info I got from a repp from NST)

Here is a good link.....
http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToySciTC.htm

 

If I'm not mistaken, the UR crank pulley for the tC is not underdriven. It is a stock diameter pulley. The xB UR pulley is the one that is underdriven. What lo_bux_racer says is pretty much right but on the other hand, like 87na said, I've never met someone who's engine failed cause of a UR pulley. Doesn't mean it hasn't or doesn't happen though.

 

So you didn't read my post? I named names. They are all Supra owners. I know them personally, and some of them even have their own websites. None of them run solid pulleys. They've all learned the lesson the hard way.

I'm really glad you believe you've not had any issues. These people have and they were all running UR pulleys.

 

Not trying to start a message forum war here bro, just stating my own experience and that of the people I know. I am personally past 50,000 miles and counting on my toyota with a pulley kit. I hope I never have any problems as a result. If I ever do, I will certainly let you all know =)

 

Buy group? How do I find out more info on buy groups lo_bux??

 

Would a Gatorback belt help any in terms of reducing harmonic vibrations?

 

No, it's not something you can do with a belt. There are four types of dampers: Fluidamper, ATI elastomer, the Rattler, and the OEM rubber sheet. Fluidamper, ATI, and the Rattler have been around for years. They are all approved for drag racing, and maintain the OEM damping function.

DO NOT call them balancers. They don't balance anything, and people only get confused when you call them that.

What dampers do

Another link to Dinan's article - more WHY.

Click the links. Read the physics. See why a properly designed damper is the only way to do this right.

 

good to know.... thanks for the links

 

thought.................
our engines are internally balanced not balancer on the pulley....other than weight what specifically are you saying is removed?

 

A damper.

Vibrations from the crank WILL one day ruin the engine. Whether or not that day will come before or after the engine dies naturally I can't say (having never known anyone with a pulley in his or her respective car.) The weight simply reduces greatly the vibrations.

 

if you get a chance to look at the stock pulley youlll see a thin piece of rubber placed between two concentric rings that serves the purpose of harmonic dampining. aftermarket pulleys dont have this thin rubber piece. i guess thats what this whole aftermarket debate comes too is that rubber piece. without it, ftom what ive read, your engine eventaully will get messed up. why hasent any companys developed an aftermarket light weight pulley with the rubber piece? wouldnt that solve all the problems?