I have my TRD Exhaust, DC 4-1 race Headers, Inejn Cold air but i left it SR for now...
Any Ideas without breaking the piggy bank on a Super Charger or Turbo...that will Get my Car going faster?

I was reading about changing out my S-pipe? hm yeah i'm still new to the car biz- Thanks for the help!

 

TRD Exhaust does next to nothing for real power gains. A full exhaust would help a little. Maybe add the CAI section of your intake.

 

decals!

 

Get it tuned.. Emanage, etc. P&P, def new exhaust, weight reduction helps a little.

 

ZPI's crank pulley wheel.. It'll really make a difference in 1st/2nd gear. Dump the TRD exhaust and get a complete exhaust system (preferably including S-Pipe) instead of axel-back. Get a short throw shifter and a Ingalls torque damper. Beyond that, you're looking at serious cash for Unichip ($1100-ish) or a better engine head (Equiv. of port&polish.. $1100-2200), or wet-shot nitrous system ($600), but NOS is cheating..

 

It works though doesn't it?

 

Bah! Cheating!
:-p
I think all forms of boost are cheating :-D But, I don't hate on them.. Boost just isn't an interest for me really.. I'm hard-core n/a.. If only I had the $2200 for that ZPI Stage 2 head so I could kick it up a notch.. Bam!

 

I wouldn't ever say any "boost" is cheating... look at all the cars that have OEM turbo. Though I don't consider NOS "boost" in the same sense as turbo or s/c... so that can be cheating if you really want it to be.

 

I just personally prefer n/a.. I'm a purist.. Or a zealot.. or something.. Mostly just a whackjob..

 

You can pick up a crank pulley or a full pulley set from www.NonStopTuning.com and gain some more hp and throttle response. Investing in a full exhaust system, better suspension, and stickier tires will also make your car put more power to the ground and make it faster.

 

Technically, the pulleys don't *add* power, they just free up power that's lost in the drivetrain between the crank and the wheels. They'll be most effective when you've got more power to lose than you do currently. Thus, I'd recommend you replace your exhaust and s-pipe first, then the short throw shifter and the pulleys. The shifter drastically improves how well you can take advantage of the car's power.

 

midpipe and add cold air portion of intake.

 

Mid-pipe? He's not running boost..... Unless you're talking about what runs from the s-pipe to the muffler, and that should be part of any exhaust system you buy...

 

Hm anyone knows where to find a good deal on a supercharger?

Hm i'm not too sure what the Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper does. i know it just keeps my car from vibrating? not sure how that really helps?

So i could change out my pully even tho i dont have a s/c? i guess most of the post ive seen all have it with their superchargers hah! (Excuse me for being new to this)

if i decided to get the S pipe, any good choices in brand to go with? ZPI? is the S pipe really worth just getting alone?

Tossing the TRD exhaust wont be an option just yet.
still need to get a Front strut, why doesnt dc make a rear one too.. hm. i wanted to do my whole car DC but i'm finding not everything can be found through them.

 

Better watch out with those decals though every one adds 5hp, slap 10 on there and you wouldn't need NOS.

 

Hope this answers all the questions from you last post...

The only supercharger I'm aware of for the tC is the TRD one that the dealership sells/installs/warranties. It's expensive though. You can get more power for less from an aftermarket turbo, BUT the supercharger is warrantied. Sort of.


The Ingalls torque damper controls engine movement better than just the engine mounts. This makes for much snappier shifting and less lag between shifts.

Yes, def. do the crank pulley wheel. I don't have a supercharger, and I'm so glad I got one. It freed up roughly 10-12 hp (est. based on before/after dyno results) that I was losing in the drivetrain.

I wouldn't get the s-pipe until you can replace the exhaust. It's basically an upgrade that looses up restrictive piping, which you're still going to have until you replace the front half of your exhaust (since the TRD one is axel-back).

As for the strut bars, my front one is Hotchkis and my rear one is Greddy. I wanted Hotchkis all the way around, but that wasn't an option when it came time to buy, tragically. But, I'm VERY happy with the Greddy. I'd suggest STRONGLY that you get a Hotchkis rear sway bar. That'll do more for your suspension than both strut bars.

I just noticed you're in CA. Ugh. Good luck with finding an exhaust that won't get you ticketed every time you try to leave the driveway. :-p I don't envy you Cali d00ds at all. :-p

 

has anyone seen a flowbench test of the ZPI head?
if i continue getting performance mods, a ported head (and possibly those LastLookCustoms cams if they come out) are next up on my list. I just have problems spending money on something i've haven't seen results with.

 

I don't think anyone's seen one, Neothin. I know two people that have been looking for it. I wish I had the money to add that to my list of mods.. FYI, as I understand it, the ZPI Stage 1 head is the same as getting a port & polish on the stock head, so if you 'know a guy' or something, just do that. Unless you were planning to blow $2200 on the Stage 2 head.. That sucker would be pure N/A heaven..
Um.. Excuse me while I go change my pants..

 

If i'm going to do it, i'm going to do it correctly. Stage 2 + cams + higher compression pistons + emanage ultimate is what i'd like to do next summer.

hook all that together and run a safe AFR up to say 7300 rpms. I might need new inejctors and a fuel pump though to run that high. maybe a new clutch to hold the power, and get a lightened flywheel while i'm at it. get some gauges to make sure nothing goes whacko.

it's only money.

 

WTF do you do? Sell crack? *I* wanted to have the fastest N/A tC :-D Unfortunately, I don't make 50K/Year. Though, if I did, I'd be driving something else for sure.