Wheelhop
I noticed lately when I launch my car pretty hard with someone in the passenger seat my car has really had wheel hop. sometimes my dvd player will shut off from all the hopping which is kinda annoying. you can even feel some hop when you shift isn't 2nd gear.
when I'm driving around by myself and I launch the wheel hop isn't bad at all, it spins more the hops. Anyone making motor mounts for the tC yet? Or anything else that would help this problem? I'm guessing springs might help but I'm not sure, wheel hop was never really a problem on any other cars I've had. I guess not launching it hard or driving around by myself would be the easiest fix, but that's no fun. :D |
weapon R has an engine dampener kit that should reduce wheel hop, not sure about aftermarket engine mounts but I'm sure you could get some custom fabricated out of a ice absorbant material.
EDIT: ahh seems I jumped the gun there.... here's a thread with a closing statement by Weapon R stating they are only in their prototype stage on the engine dampener kit.... https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=hop |
Originally Posted by Otocan
weapon R has an engine dampener kit that should reduce wheel hop, not sure about aftermarket engine mounts but I'm sure you could get some custom fabricated out of a ice absorbant material.
EDIT: ahh seems I jumped the gun there.... here's a thread with a closing statement by Weapon R stating they are only in their prototype stage on the engine dampener kit.... https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=hop |
Originally Posted by Otocan
weapon R has an engine dampener kit that should reduce wheel hop, not sure about aftermarket engine mounts but I'm sure you could get some custom fabricated out of a ice absorbant material.
EDIT: ahh seems I jumped the gun there.... here's a thread with a closing statement by Weapon R stating they are only in their prototype stage on the engine dampener kit.... https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=hop |
Motor Mount inserts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1/4 of the price! of the dampener kit.
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just emailed Eneregy suspension and hope for a response!
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I don't get wheel hop or spin very often. Even if I launch it quick I can normally launch it without much spin. Now into second if I try to do it quick and don't do it just right I can spin the tires there, but really that's not the proper way to shift, even if you are racing the car. Maybe you need to change your driving style.
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es mount inserts are definitely the way to go. I'm getting a set for my si saturday.
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yea i havent gottan wheel hop yet at all. even when i gun it and shift hard into second and third............they chirp but no wheel hop. i havent really launched the car just yet or practiced launching it. also i thought the front of the tC was crazy heavy, i mean it has a 2.4 engine up front.
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Originally Posted by Gmoney
yea i havent gottan wheel hop yet at all. even when i gun it and shift hard into second and third............they chirp but no wheel hop. i havent really launched the car just yet or practiced launching it. also i thought the front of the tC was crazy heavy, i mean it has a 2.4 engine up front.
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Any news on motor mounts???
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Wow, I barely remember creating this thread.
ZPI is still working on some motor mounts, they aren't out yet. I installed the ingalls stiffy about a month ago and it stopped all of my wheel hop. I'm not really interested in the motor mounts anymore. |
Use the Ingalls Stiffy, seems to help. :D
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Yea, but my strut tower bracket bent on the Ingalls...
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Yeah i dont want something that seems to help....or causes problems...or breaks....which i have read alot about....i would like to have motor mounts......so i will keep my eyes on ZPI then
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Yea im waiting on the MM, dont care how much they are gonna cost either..
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Originally Posted by Fsu1dolfan
Yeah i dont want something that seems to help....or causes problems...or breaks....which i have read alot about....i would like to have motor mounts......so i will keep my eyes on ZPI then
I believe ZPI mentioned that the motor mounts are going to be close to $400 whenever they come out. |
Understand that you pay for quality.....those brackets that you put on not only could mess up a tower strut bar, which would ____ me off but the main problem is where it attaches.
The bracket attaches to the bolts of you passenger side wheel mount...we all know that it is strong but image every time you drive the weight of your engine is being supported by just those bolts......case in point why these bend, break, or cause any other problems whatsoever....not exactly an efficient way to control wheel hop....let alone that fact that you "could" possibly weaken those bolts many years down the road and that’s a major problem.....also motor mounts are evenly distributed and the bracket only works on the one side....look to each their own as far as modding and I am not telling you that you’re wrong, but don’t try to tell me that a cheap quick fix is better then actually replacing better motor mounts with the same design as which they were originally intended....adding a bracket that was never there doesn’t really help Unless it is evenly supported and attached to the frame NOT bolts for you wheel.....got it!!! |
^ Thats why my ingalls bracket is bent, so much stress. Maybe they can send me a new bracket..
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Originally Posted by Fsu1dolfan
The bracket attaches to the bolts of you passenger side wheel mount...we all know that it is strong but image every time you drive the weight of your engine is being supported by just those bolts......case in point why these bend, break, or cause any other problems whatsoever....not exactly an efficient way to control wheel hop....let alone that fact that you "could" possibly weaken those bolts many years down the road and that’s a major problem.....also motor mounts are evenly distributed and the bracket only works on the one side....look to each their own as far as modding and I am not telling you that you’re wrong, but don’t try to tell me that a cheap quick fix is better then actually replacing better motor mounts with the same design as which they were originally intended....adding a bracket that was never there doesn’t really help Unless it is evenly supported and attached to the frame NOT bolts for you wheel.....got it!!!
And adding a bracket does help, the engine barely moves at all on the stiff setting. It also elimated wheelhop completely for me.. I don't need anything else. About the "causing problems in the future" comment: Ingalls has been making these stiffy's for several different cars for awhile now.. It's not like it's some new thing they tryed for the tC.. I've yet to see anyone have problems with the stiffy breaking or causing problems with your stock motor mounts. zer0, you might of just had a defective bracket.. I'm sure they would send you a new one, they seemed really cool when I called. |
Gonna have to call em
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i belive zpi makes motor mount
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Yea, but they are not out yet. :(
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Originally Posted by tom0613
i belive zpi makes motor mount
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Stiffy's, etc are a better than a band aid but not the real cure.
If you can either let you car sit for a week or get some mounts from the wrecking yard, just the front, rear and dirvers side will do. you do as I have done on a few cars over the years. Get some Devcon Flexane 80, remove those mounts(have to jack the engine up), clean, mask and fill with the Flexane, oven cure for 24 hours, let them sit for a week and room temp, install, done. I removed all the factory counter weights(saved a few more pounds off the car) and have barely any added vibration at all and absolutely zero wheel hop, far less drivetrain snatch(different terms can be used here) and much a more in control feeling entering and exiting corners now that the engine is not moving the suspension around. $35 pint size two part kit is enough for two cars. Rick |
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Stiffy's, etc are a better than a band aid but not the real cure.
If you can either let you car sit for a week or get some mounts from the wrecking yard, just the front, rear and dirvers side will do. you do as I have done on a few cars over the years. Get some Devcon Flexane 80, remove those mounts(have to jack the engine up), clean, mask and fill with the Flexane, oven cure for 24 hours, let them sit for a week and room temp, install, done. I removed all the factory counter weights(saved a few more pounds off the car) and have barely any added vibration at all and absolutely zero wheel hop, far less drivetrain snatch(different terms can be used here) and much a more in control feeling entering and exiting corners now that the engine is not moving the suspension around. $35 pint size two part kit is enough for two cars. Rick |
Mainly autocross, I will drag race a few times and do some solo I and time trials as well as track days once the rest of the car is done(turbo system I am building).
On my last prodject car the, a turbo Matrix with 250WHP on the dyno the front wheels would move forward around two inches with the stock mounts and close to the same with a solid top mounted or front mounted torque "damper". That is alot of power being wasted twisting things so much to cause the wheels to be pushed that far out of their proper position. Once the mounts were filled they would barely move at all. Rick |
From ZPI's AD... they make it seem like the install for their mounts wount be to difficult. I think they said there's 3 and you do em all indivually. Not sure if i believe em... course I have a tendancy to make a vry simple project way more difficilt then it needs to be :P
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The front and drivers side are relatively easy, the front being very simple really.
The rear mount is a bit of a hassle I am sure, maybe more of a pain than led to believe but I did other things at the same time so hard for me to rate it on a scale. Front, 1 out of 10 Side, 3 out of 10 Rear, from what I know which was not doing it seperately, 8 out of ten. If you average the numbers this is a very easy job, taking individually, the rear may be a royal pain in the arse. Again, I have not done it seperate so not able to know for sure but it was a hassle in what we were doing at the same time. Rick |
Can someone please do DIY to fill these motor mounts?
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i honestly wouldnt change them unless your getting in there and doing yoru clutch and flywheel. to do those you unbolt the driver side of the engine and drop it down, then pry it to the side. you get easy access to that rear one that way.. the rest just fall into place after that. to do individually, holy cow, thats a job and a half.
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Just to be sure I am clear on this, I did not mean that I did or suggest doing them individually, just that two of them are very easy to remove and install and the rear one is a bit of a pain in the arse:)
Soros, Not sure what you are asking, DIY is do it yourself, what we are talking about. Please explain what you are after a bit more:) Rick |
zpi said that installing the mounts should not be that hard. We might be able to use a jack and keep the engine in place - undo the mounts - jack the car up an inch - then put the new mounts on. ...we shall see.
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I meant a How-to about filling the motor mounts with...whatever you fill it up with. lol, A how-to do that.
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Im gonna try and fill just the front mount for now. Hopefully that calms down some of the lash..
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Originally Posted by zer0
Im gonna try and fill just the front mount for now. Hopefully that calms down some of the lash..
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After I installed my TRD suspension and Ingalls "Stiffy" I have no wheel hop either but I still plan on mounts.
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Originally Posted by xnevergiveinx
Originally Posted by zer0
Im gonna try and fill just the front mount for now. Hopefully that calms down some of the lash..
http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/mount.html http://importnut.net/motormount.htm |
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