ZPI Racing Stage 1 Head Package
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
From: Lawrenceville, NJ
ZPI Racing Stage 1 Head Package
does any1 have the zpi stage 1 head package installed? cause i dont fully understand it. does it need to be installed by a shop or is it easy to install.
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If you're asking, take it to a shop.
If you're asking in the Drag Coefficient forum, don't get it.
If you really want it, research it and you should find out whether or not you are capable of doing it.
To be less of a jerk now, I would highly suggest taking it to a shop. It is not a simple bolt on job.. complex.. very complex.. well, more so than intake header exhaust stuff.
If you're asking in the Drag Coefficient forum, don't get it.
If you really want it, research it and you should find out whether or not you are capable of doing it.
To be less of a jerk now, I would highly suggest taking it to a shop. It is not a simple bolt on job.. complex.. very complex.. well, more so than intake header exhaust stuff.
its been my understanding that there isnt much modification to be done. you just take off your old one, send it in, get the port/polished one back, install.
heres what i dont get. why not just directly ask zpi? they'd give you the fastest and most straight-forward and accurate answer.
heres what i dont get. why not just directly ask zpi? they'd give you the fastest and most straight-forward and accurate answer.
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Originally Posted by hunterUnknown
its been my understanding that there isnt much modification to be done. you just take off your old one, send it in, get the port/polished one back, install.
heres what i dont get. why not just directly ask zpi? they'd give you the fastest and most straight-forward and accurate answer.
heres what i dont get. why not just directly ask zpi? they'd give you the fastest and most straight-forward and accurate answer.
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Before you go hog wild on this, get a tube of Prussian Blue oil paint from an artist supply and do some quick testing. After you get your valves all cleaned up, (wire wheel, NO carbon anywhere), put a thin coat of the paint on the contact face of the valve. Thinner is better, just enough to color the surface. Then put the valve in the guide, and tap it onto the seat much the same way the valve works in service. Usually you use one hand to tap it down, and the other to push it open. Be sure to tap at least three times, it won't hurt to tap too much, but won't give good results if you tap too little.
Check the contact ring on the seat, it will be a nice shade of blue. It should be even width all the way around with NO gaps what-so-ever. Now remove the valve, wipe the paint off the valve contact face. Put it back in the head and tap a few times again. Look and the contact point on the valve face. Again, it should be an even width around the entire valve with NO gaps in coverage (any gap will burn the valve in minutes), and the ring should be between 0.5 and 1.0mm from the bottom edge of the contact face (or margin).
You also want to do a basic concentricity check. The blue ring on the seat should be concentric with the port. If it is off to one side, the flow in that port won't be ideal. I've seen this a few times, but Toyco generally does a good job. Sometimes they have core shift when the head is cast and the valve seats are fundamentally off center. A head like that should not be used to make high power, trade it for a better head and let someone use the not so good one for their stock daily driver. They'll never know the difference. I've seen seats with a 0.5mm step on 2JZ heads, so I know it's not impossible for Toyco to send out a less than stellar head.
This is a basic QC to ensure the valve will seal. It is also prudent to number the valves and assign them to individual seats so you know which one got tested in which seat. Many old school head guys match the retainers, springs, and keepers to the valve when they disassemble. I realize it's probably too late to do this, and I'm sure you'll be fine because the parts are so new, but retainers and keepers do tend to wear together, if you're being really ****, it's the preferred method.
If the valves were mine, I'd back cut them with a 15 to 30 degree backcut (depending on flowbench results)and reduce the contact face width to 1.5mm, then make sure I got the valve seat contact point dead in the middle of the valve contact face, but I wouldn't expect that kind of work for the price you paid ZPI. I'd also swirl polish the valve, but again, for the price they are asking, it's not possible to do all this stuff. These are the details that make a huge difference in low lift flow, and I'll take a 15% increase in low lift flow over a 20% increase in maximum flow any day.
Check the contact ring on the seat, it will be a nice shade of blue. It should be even width all the way around with NO gaps what-so-ever. Now remove the valve, wipe the paint off the valve contact face. Put it back in the head and tap a few times again. Look and the contact point on the valve face. Again, it should be an even width around the entire valve with NO gaps in coverage (any gap will burn the valve in minutes), and the ring should be between 0.5 and 1.0mm from the bottom edge of the contact face (or margin).
You also want to do a basic concentricity check. The blue ring on the seat should be concentric with the port. If it is off to one side, the flow in that port won't be ideal. I've seen this a few times, but Toyco generally does a good job. Sometimes they have core shift when the head is cast and the valve seats are fundamentally off center. A head like that should not be used to make high power, trade it for a better head and let someone use the not so good one for their stock daily driver. They'll never know the difference. I've seen seats with a 0.5mm step on 2JZ heads, so I know it's not impossible for Toyco to send out a less than stellar head.
This is a basic QC to ensure the valve will seal. It is also prudent to number the valves and assign them to individual seats so you know which one got tested in which seat. Many old school head guys match the retainers, springs, and keepers to the valve when they disassemble. I realize it's probably too late to do this, and I'm sure you'll be fine because the parts are so new, but retainers and keepers do tend to wear together, if you're being really ****, it's the preferred method.
If the valves were mine, I'd back cut them with a 15 to 30 degree backcut (depending on flowbench results)and reduce the contact face width to 1.5mm, then make sure I got the valve seat contact point dead in the middle of the valve contact face, but I wouldn't expect that kind of work for the price you paid ZPI. I'd also swirl polish the valve, but again, for the price they are asking, it's not possible to do all this stuff. These are the details that make a huge difference in low lift flow, and I'll take a 15% increase in low lift flow over a 20% increase in maximum flow any day.
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Scikotics
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Originally Posted by lo_bux_racer
Before you go hog wild on this, get a tube of Prussian Blue oil paint from an artist supply and do some quick testing. After you get your valves all cleaned up, (wire wheel, NO carbon anywhere), put a thin coat of the paint on the contact face of the valve. Thinner is better, just enough to color the surface. Then put the valve in the guide, and tap it onto the seat much the same way the valve works in service. Usually you use one hand to tap it down, and the other to push it open. Be sure to tap at least three times, it won't hurt to tap too much, but won't give good results if you tap too little.
Check the contact ring on the seat, it will be a nice shade of blue. It should be even width all the way around with NO gaps what-so-ever. Now remove the valve, wipe the paint off the valve contact face. Put it back in the head and tap a few times again. Look and the contact point on the valve face. Again, it should be an even width around the entire valve with NO gaps in coverage (any gap will burn the valve in minutes), and the ring should be between 0.5 and 1.0mm from the bottom edge of the contact face (or margin).
You also want to do a basic concentricity check. The blue ring on the seat should be concentric with the port. If it is off to one side, the flow in that port won't be ideal. I've seen this a few times, but Toyco generally does a good job. Sometimes they have core shift when the head is cast and the valve seats are fundamentally off center. A head like that should not be used to make high power, trade it for a better head and let someone use the not so good one for their stock daily driver. They'll never know the difference. I've seen seats with a 0.5mm step on 2JZ heads, so I know it's not impossible for Toyco to send out a less than stellar head.
This is a basic QC to ensure the valve will seal. It is also prudent to number the valves and assign them to individual seats so you know which one got tested in which seat. Many old school head guys match the retainers, springs, and keepers to the valve when they disassemble. I realize it's probably too late to do this, and I'm sure you'll be fine because the parts are so new, but retainers and keepers do tend to wear together, if you're being really ****, it's the preferred method.
If the valves were mine, I'd back cut them with a 15 to 30 degree backcut (depending on flowbench results)and reduce the contact face width to 1.5mm, then make sure I got the valve seat contact point dead in the middle of the valve contact face, but I wouldn't expect that kind of work for the price you paid ZPI. I'd also swirl polish the valve, but again, for the price they are asking, it's not possible to do all this stuff. These are the details that make a huge difference in low lift flow, and I'll take a 15% increase in low lift flow over a 20% increase in maximum flow any day.
Check the contact ring on the seat, it will be a nice shade of blue. It should be even width all the way around with NO gaps what-so-ever. Now remove the valve, wipe the paint off the valve contact face. Put it back in the head and tap a few times again. Look and the contact point on the valve face. Again, it should be an even width around the entire valve with NO gaps in coverage (any gap will burn the valve in minutes), and the ring should be between 0.5 and 1.0mm from the bottom edge of the contact face (or margin).
You also want to do a basic concentricity check. The blue ring on the seat should be concentric with the port. If it is off to one side, the flow in that port won't be ideal. I've seen this a few times, but Toyco generally does a good job. Sometimes they have core shift when the head is cast and the valve seats are fundamentally off center. A head like that should not be used to make high power, trade it for a better head and let someone use the not so good one for their stock daily driver. They'll never know the difference. I've seen seats with a 0.5mm step on 2JZ heads, so I know it's not impossible for Toyco to send out a less than stellar head.
This is a basic QC to ensure the valve will seal. It is also prudent to number the valves and assign them to individual seats so you know which one got tested in which seat. Many old school head guys match the retainers, springs, and keepers to the valve when they disassemble. I realize it's probably too late to do this, and I'm sure you'll be fine because the parts are so new, but retainers and keepers do tend to wear together, if you're being really ****, it's the preferred method.
If the valves were mine, I'd back cut them with a 15 to 30 degree backcut (depending on flowbench results)and reduce the contact face width to 1.5mm, then make sure I got the valve seat contact point dead in the middle of the valve contact face, but I wouldn't expect that kind of work for the price you paid ZPI. I'd also swirl polish the valve, but again, for the price they are asking, it's not possible to do all this stuff. These are the details that make a huge difference in low lift flow, and I'll take a 15% increase in low lift flow over a 20% increase in maximum flow any day.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Aurora, IL
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/portdiy/diyport.pdf
seems fun i realy want to do it but i think i need some thing a little better then my dremel tool hahaha maybe if i can find a 2az head ill do it
ebay here i come hahaha
seems fun i realy want to do it but i think i need some thing a little better then my dremel tool hahaha maybe if i can find a 2az head ill do it
ebay here i come hahaha
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,677
From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by matty-tC
yeah sorry i can't do that to my daily driver LOL
hahaha me neither but if i find another head then we are in buisness hahaha if i mess it up just throw it away i guess hahaha and learn my leason about how i should have bought a p&p head rather then made my own but yeah i am good at metal working its all i did in highschool its so mutch fun hahaha
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I use SA's stuff. I get it from Cylinder Head Abrasives because they are just down the street from my house, and I've known BC Gerolamy for some years. He did all the heads for Nissan Racing when they were winning GTP races some years ago now.
You'll completely waste your time with a Dremel. Too tiny, not enough power. Either an air powered die grinder, or an electric grinder like this link shows are needed. It would take forever to do any serious porting with a Dremel tool.
I use an Ingersoll-Rand die grinder because it's not too expensive and has good bearings unlike some of the less expensive units. If you do a lot of cast iron, you really want an electric unit.
If you are beginner to porting and metal shaping with die grinders in general, go to a junkyard and get a scrap head. Don't spend any serious money, just get one that is no good to run but has the ports and valve seats intact. Practice on it. Lots of bad things can happen when doing port work, and it's really easy to walk a tool right across the head and scar something really badly when you are new to the whole thing. Once you get some confidence with being able to control the tool, then get a head you can work on that will run. Test it, plan out your changes, then execute your plan. Remember, real race porting is best left to real professionals. If you keep it simple, you'll have a lot of pride in ownership and improved performance when you are done.
You'll completely waste your time with a Dremel. Too tiny, not enough power. Either an air powered die grinder, or an electric grinder like this link shows are needed. It would take forever to do any serious porting with a Dremel tool.
I use an Ingersoll-Rand die grinder because it's not too expensive and has good bearings unlike some of the less expensive units. If you do a lot of cast iron, you really want an electric unit.
If you are beginner to porting and metal shaping with die grinders in general, go to a junkyard and get a scrap head. Don't spend any serious money, just get one that is no good to run but has the ports and valve seats intact. Practice on it. Lots of bad things can happen when doing port work, and it's really easy to walk a tool right across the head and scar something really badly when you are new to the whole thing. Once you get some confidence with being able to control the tool, then get a head you can work on that will run. Test it, plan out your changes, then execute your plan. Remember, real race porting is best left to real professionals. If you keep it simple, you'll have a lot of pride in ownership and improved performance when you are done.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,677
From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by lo_bux_racer
When the valve is in its initial opening phase. Between 0.020" and 0.100" lift. It has nothing to do with the throttle, it's purely the valve in the head moving off the seat.
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From: Aurora, IL
Originally Posted by lo_bux_racer
No. A dial indicator on the retainer with a very soft spring installed and a screw to open the valve and hold it so I can measure pressure drop and flow.
also how do you flow test them????