title explains itself.
im NA at the moment
stock injectors, I/H/E
22inhg vacuum at idle
live in chicago approx 0 degrees F
this has been going on for about 3 days, please help me find the cause. im not leaking fuel anywhere, and the car runs fine. why such low AFR's?

 

if you are running stock im gonna say either a wideband issue or exhaust leak

 

is the cruising and all normal? if so then its the wideband. i have the same problem. just swap out the sensor with someone if you know anyone if not buy one.

 

exhaust leak, primary O2 dead, vacuum leak bigtime

 

any bad smells? new noises or vibrations?

 

yea its 14.7 at idle, around 11.5 at WOT. it does make a slight ticking noise when i noticed when im idling. but thats not the worst...i just did a comp test at op temp, and all across was a little above 120. i have no idea how i could have lost 60 psi in compression in all 4 cyl in a month....without even boosting! i do have a spare wideband sensor i will try, to see if it changes the reading, and i do have a spare primary o2 i can try. but im baffled at the compression. not sure what i did....

 

What year is your car?

 

have you noticed any coolant loss, coolant smell in the engine bay, alot of condensation from the tail pipe (more than normal), and what is your ign timeing when fully warm?

 

car is an 05, 76k miles. i havent noticed any coolant loss. but i will start monitoring it closer. i dont smell coolant, and i dont see much condensation. if so im guessing your pointing towards a head gasket, which is kinda what i was "hoping" for.

 

actually im hinting at something els that will run alot more...

Iv never seen this on the 2az thats from a tc personaly till now, but im currently rebuilding an engine for a customer that has stripped head bolts (06 Tc w/80k miles). Car or engine for that matter has never seen a turbo/nitrous/supercharger.

Iv heard about the 2azfe from 03 camry's having stripped head bolts after 70k miles just never before seen it happen in a tc.

Customer of mine noticed he had coolant leaking onto his s-pipe, dried coolant on the bottom side of the intake manifold, as well as on adjacent bolts. Leak appeared to be only on the back side of the engine. I did a leakdown test and the air pressure was leaking from one cyl into the cyl next to it, an indication that head gasket was not sealing. So I poped off the valve cover to test out a theory I had and removed the exhaust cam. I tried to loosen the center head bolt for that side and it came out like it was hand tightend. I tried to tighten it down to no avail, threads were gone. Removed the intake came as well and tested the bolts on that side. In all 5 head bolts were stripped and they all were towards the middle of the engine.

 

I should clearify...when i say stripped head bolts i should say the head bolts pulled the threads out of the block.

 

ima go pop the cams off tonight and see if the bolts are stripped, as you say they might be. so what exactly does one do to fix trashed threads on the block? id have it done of course, but i was just wondering what all im in for

 

i wouldnt go hog wild just yet...id jack the car up and take a look at the bottom of the intake mani. also put about 90-100psi of air pressure to cyl 2 or 3 and see if you you get any air out of the other cyl (of course take out all the spark plugs and turn the crank so your not leaking air out of the valves).

Iv delt with a few 05-06 Tc's and like i said this is the first tc iv come accross that had the threads pulled out of em.

 

machine shop will charge about 400-450 to drill out all the bolt holes and retap them. they will then put in thread inserts.

 

also something els i noticed is that you are running 22inhg vac...so I wouldnt think you would have a head gasket sealing issue.
Try out doing the comp test again with the car at op temp and maybe a different gauge.

 

i just looked at the bottom of the intake mani....no dried coolant. i will have to wait until tomorrow to do the leakdown test, considering i dont have the actual tester. could i just crank the motor with the comp tester til full compression and wait a bit and see if it goes down? or would it not work the same?

 

no...a comp gauge has a one way valve

 

im willing to bet you just had a leaky comp gauge

 

well crush...the verdict has been reached! when i did the first comp test i had my friend crank the motor over while i just watched the gauge. but what i forgot to tell him was to hold open the throttle.

i just did another comp test cause i was absolutely shocked. i did it by myself cause he left, and it came out to 179, 180, 178, 180. i didnt get why all of a sudden it was back to normal lol, then remembered that he probably didnt hold the throttle open.

but the major problem has been solved! onto the smaller problem, which is probably just the sensor. i appreciate you helping me!

 

not a problem...though i have to admit i hardly ever touch the peddle when doing a comp test and they tend to come out exactly the same either way. Iv tried it a couple of times (both ways).

Im just glad you didnt start tearing into your engine...lol