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Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

changing the downpipe on boosted tc

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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 12:04 AM
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Default changing the downpipe on boosted tc

quick question,im boosted with dezod s1 turbo kit and im changing the downpipe ,...my question is how do i get to the flange bolts....i got the two easy ones,but the rear ones or a pita,and i dont wanna take the manifold off the car,
Old Aug 27, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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take it off the car,alot easier,
Old Aug 28, 2012 | 02:15 PM
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Keep DP, turbo, manifold together and lift complete system out. Change outside of car.
Old Aug 29, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Keep DP, turbo, manifold together and lift complete system out. Change outside of car.
Thats what i always did with mine, it made life a lot easier, those 2 bolts at the back are almost impossible to get to, and if you do it before everything cools down then its really fun lol.
Old Aug 30, 2012 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Keep DP, turbo, manifold together and lift complete system out. Change outside of car.

was really hoping to avoid doing that,but i guess ill be alot easier
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 03:50 PM
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im bringing my thread back to life.....ok update,i finally found time to take the whole manifold off the car,but im still have trouble getting to this one hex bolt closes to where the little tube goes into the wastegate on the dp,all the other bolts where easy,ive tried different methods,but my allen keys the head is too long to reach into the hex bolt and dont have enough space,any advice,tips or tricks,
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Pics would help
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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Do you mean the flange bolts from the WG to the DP? Regular Allen key should work. I got my WG off with the mani still on the car. Takes a little time since you can only turn a little at a time. If the bolts are too tight to turn w/ the space you have, you can use some kind of hollow tube or pipe to act as an extension and give extra leverage. It's tough since the allen key is really small and there isn't a lot of room to work with.
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by That_Kid_Ju
Do you mean the flange bolts from the WG to the DP? Regular Allen key should work. I got my WG off with the mani still on the car. Takes a little time since you can only turn a little at a time. If the bolts are too tight to turn w/ the space you have, you can use some kind of hollow tube or pipe to act as an extension and give extra leverage. It's tough since the allen key is really small and there isn't a lot of room to work with.
flange bolts that go to the hot side of the turbo,that 5 bolt flange thing,there a bolt thats parallel to the small pipe....got the two front bolts,the a bottom rear,then another just above the botton rear...

ill take pics....all my alllen keys,the head is too long,and ive tried a socket allen key,but cant get enough space to get in there
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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Just looked at the 5 bolt flange and you should have enough clearance to access all the bolts with the whole assembly off the car (the lower rear may be a bit tough with the assy on the car, but still manageable). Plus mine are hex bolts, not allen. A picture of your setup would definitely be beneficial.
Old Sep 25, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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This is a older pic when on the car but get the idea i circled in black,but i apologzied for the wrong bolt,its allen key not hex,my brother told me the wrong thing lol..didnt get a chance to take recent pics


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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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thats a allen head,unmount the turbo from the manifold itself,get a stubby allen wrench and work it little by little...
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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Looks like your kit came with different bolt than mine. I think if you take the wastegate off first, then the turbo-to-manifold bolts next, that should free up some space to get to the downpipe bolts with the allen key. Unless of course the hex head bolt on the 4-bolt flange that is right behind the one you circled in your pic interferes...then you just gotta work at the socket head bolt with your allen key a little bit at a time. Try a long-style, Tee handled hex driver if there is enough space below the dump tube.

For example: http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...1#.UGMK5o2PWSo

*Note: this is not specific to your needs, just wanted to give a better description of what I was talking about.
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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Simple allen key one quarter spin at a time.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by That_Kid_Ju
Looks like your kit came with different bolt than mine. I think if you take the wastegate off first, then the turbo-to-manifold bolts next, that should free up some space to get to the downpipe bolts with the allen key. Unless of course the hex head bolt on the 4-bolt flange that is right behind the one you circled in your pic interferes...then you just gotta work at the socket head bolt with your allen key a little bit at a time. Try a long-style, Tee handled hex driver if there is enough space below the dump tube.

For example: http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...1#.UGMK5o2PWSo

*Note: this is not specific to your needs, just wanted to give a better description of what I was talking about.

makes sense,gonna take everything apart,i just order a stubby allen wrench,and see what happens,ill get it out,but apperciate your feedback though
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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all done,i got the bolts out,good thing i did it off the car,they were on there super tight,but got a stubby allen wrench,that did did the trick,tryed to avoid taking everything off,but to be honest,it made life and the install,so much easier
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