I installed a clutch masters stage 3 clutch in my car this weekend and boy was that some job! I guess it didn't help that it was my first clutch install and it was done on a driveway with hand tools. About half way through the install I definitely got the 'oh sh$t, am I going to get this thing back together' thought. Anyway, I got the car back together and it drives, but I had a few questions I thought you guys might be able to help me out with.

I've driven approximately 70 miles on the new clutch and everything seems fine, but when I'm when let off the gas at highway speeds (around 70 mph) I hear a chattering noise. It seems to only happen at highway speeds though. Any thoughts what this could be? Is it just the clutch 'breaking in'?

Also, when i started driving I noticed my steering was no longer straight (wheel was slightly turned to the left when driving straight). The car seems to track fine, though. I think it is due to the fact that when I had the subframe lowered (similar position to when installing a front sway bar), we turned the steering wheel which I'm assuming affected the alignment of the steering wheel. How would I go about fixing this?

Thanks for the input.

 

about the steering wheel you need to get an alignment anytime you take apart something on the front end ur alignment goes out don't wait to long don't wanna ruin ur tires

 

a stage 3 clutch huh...chatter will be normal. is it a puck style clutch?

 

The car drives pretty straight though? I would think I'd have a serious pull for it to be an alignment issue, right?

It's steel backed segmented kevlar. I think the stage 4 is the ceramic puck.

 

^ lol u f'd that up

 

lo, i did f that post up. Fixed now.......

 

If you even touch the steering rack bolts when lowering the subframe it will mess up the steering wheel. Happen to me once and it took forever to get it back right again!


The chatter is somewhat normal....I had that clutch once and my brother still has one. Not alot of chatter but noticable over stock.


That clutch needs a good break in.....at least 500 EASY miles.

My brothers is finally starting to go after 2 years of abuse and about 20-30k miles.

 

I did eventually drop the subframe from the steering rack (to get enough clearance to get the tranny back in). How would i go about fixing that? Take subframe back off and try to re-align?

So chattering on deceleration is normal? It thought that would be more on stage 4 and above. If you don't mind, what causes the chatter and why is it only at higher speed. I'm new to upgraded clutches.

How easy is easy? I haven't gotten into boost and haven't shifted past 3500 RPM. The instruction said 'normal driving' but that is a pretty vague.

 

i see this isnt a puck clutch, is chatter more likely to be noticeable on puck clutches?

 

Well I have a CC stage 4 6 puck now and it chatters more then my old CM stage 3.

As far the steering rack you have to keep unbolting it and move it little by little till it is lined up again. Dont lower the subframe again. Just losen the rack bolts and move it.


As far as break in...you have the idea. No high rpm or boost for 500 miles.

 

Rich, the chatter or resonance that you hear is caused by the stiffer springs found on the center hub of aftermarket sprung clutch discs. Aftermarket clutch manufacturers obviously do this to provide you with a stronger disc assembly.

The clutch style (i.e. puck vs. full face) will not make much of a difference if the manufacturer uses the same sprung center, since the clutch is already engaged. CM stage 4 discs will use a stiffer spring assembly than the Stg1-3. Basically, when you let off the gas in-gear the engine braking will create vibration that gets absorbed by the sprung center. Stiffer hub springs simply mean more noise gets transmitted from the bellhousing.

This is normal and is not too bad with the traverse front-engine layout. It is probably 100x worse on a FR car like the s2000, where the bell housing is right next to your leg and causes resonance into the cabin.

In terms of clutch break-in, just drive the car normally and not like you stole it and you'll be just fine.

- Toan

 

ur car car drive straight all day long but if ur steering wheel is not center when u are driveing straight then ur alignment is off just take it and get it aligned thats part of the alignment is centering the steering wheel

 

I appreciate the info. A BIG THANKS to you (and PTUNING) for all the help with the install!!!!!!!. You guys simply are the best!

 

Yeah, that makes sense. I'll take it this week for an alignment.

 

[/quote]

I appreciate the info. A BIG THANKS to you (and PTUNING) for all the help with the install!!!!!!!. You guys simply are the best![/quote]

No problem. Glad we could help you out.

- Toan

 

No problem. Glad we could help you out.

- Toan

 

hmm i didnt know the clutch could make noise under deceleration.. On mine, I hear some weird vibration kinda chatter like but no noticeable shakes in the cabin, just noise that happpens on deceleration/deep vacuum like -21 to -22.. I've all ways thought it was my tune like its either im putting too much timing or i need less timing, It kinda gets me paranoid at times what if those are knocking from too much timing but I checked my knock map and it doesnt register any knocks.. At least I know now that it could be the clutch.. I have clutchmasters stage 4 sprung 6 puck

 

That's why you don't lower the subframe. It's not necessary anyway.

 

Hmm.. im doing my clutch soon maybe i should video tape it! Can anyone do video editing?

 

We took it out witht he subframe just lowered, but had a ton of trouble getting it back in (two people). One or two more hands might have helped the process out maybe........

After messing with it for a while, we took it all the way down and got the tranny up in like 5-10 minutes after that.