According to the transmission shop where my car currently is getting clutch number 3 put in (thanks goodyear for not putting that transmission dowel pin in) they noticed that my flywheel has alot of wear on it. Its worn a groove into the back of my flywheel apparently. They claim Im experiencing crank walk. Any other options of what it could be? What can I do in this situation? They also said my rear main seal the rubber coating on it was completely worn off and it was just bare metal. Is that a sign indicative of crankwalk?

 

was it leaking oil ?

 

No I didnt see any

 

hang that biatch apart and replace the thrustwasher along with the rest of your bearings

 

Looks like ull be making a new bearing kit.

Yes, for sure if your flywheel is hitting your block you have crankwalk.. As to why i have no clue.. because ive never seen or herd of it on this motor!

 

dam! you beat me to the walking the crank pic!!

 

what clutch you have? because a strong clutch pushes against hte flywheel and causes grooves mimicking a crankwalk situation, our cranks usually do not allow for much play

 

The main reason I see engines with the thrust burnt up is the result of bad habbits. Usually something like holding the clutch pedal down while sitting at stop lights and after starting the engine, things of that sort.

Im not accusing you of this, just what I have seen.

 

had a stage 4 CC for a while till the disk grenaded, then got a stage 2 put in and it was all jacked up on its install so it failed again, now its getting a stage 4 put back in it again.



Windu- I do hold the pedal down at lights and stuff from time to time, Im assuming thats a bad habit? Hopefully it was just a jack installation and thats why its messed up, and hopefully nothings wrong with the car.

 

Yeah man. Try to remember to never hold the clutch down for longer than you actually have to. The thrust bearings in an engine dont have forced oiling, so when the pedal is down and the crank is forced forward against the rear thrust, all the oil going to that main journal exits the front of the journal (i.e. path of least resistance)
Cut open the oil filter next time you change the oil and look for bearing material. I would check the filter every change now that you know there is a possible problem.

 

I didnt know that, thanks for the information!

 

yep that's the sacrifice of a stronger clutch

 

^ Orly, will a stage 4 do this again? Could improper installation cause this?

 

well, improper installation would do soemting earlier on rather tahn later.

generally that is.

stage 4 has more of a chance of ruining the thrust bearings but just dont' hold the clutch down so much

 

If the clutch is binding it may cause this. Stage 4 has more clamping force, whitch translates to more pressure on the thrust when the clutch pedal is down.

 

Is there a way I can disable that dumb clutch switch so I can start the car with out holding down the clutch?

 

I thought about that - if you put in a switch that senses neutral on the shifter position and jumps the clutch switch you should be all set. Really a pain to have to get both legs in the car and push the clutch in when in neutral already. I mean you don't have to push the gas any more to start the engine right?

 

I was thinking I could just cross the wires and it should be good to go. Or just tape or ziptie down the switch.

 

That's ok until you forget and start it in gear or the ignition shorts out and the cars starts all by itself. Not sure if the ecu monitors the clutch switch but that could cause some problems if it did too. Plus you can't start the engine once it is running without pushing in the clutch but if you jump it you could . . . just another possible gear grinding situation.

 

I have no idea how the clutch switch works in the tc. I know older stuff you could just bypass it or tape it up so it thinks the pedal is always down.
But until you get that sorted out put the car in neutral before you start the engine and let the clutch out as soon as it fires off.