Dezod AEM EMS for the tC updates
09-01-2010, 12:42 AM
#61
Senior Member
1UP Crew
SL Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Medly, FL
Posts: 3,510
hahhaa... old post but hopefully one of you guys replies. im about to get an aem ems, and was wondering what makes the racebox and street box different? physically that is. also are any of you guys still running it?
09-01-2010, 03:14 AM
#63
Senior Member
Music City Scions
SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,372
racebox has full control over everything and a/c doesn't work until rewired. Stretbox is more like a piggyback and allows the factory ecu more control. go to Dezods website and read about it for everything.
09-01-2010, 07:54 PM
#64
09-01-2010, 07:56 PM
#65
Race box allowed for full control over fans, fuel pump, rev limiter to the moon, fuel, ignition and VVT, but required A/C to be re-wired. This version also powered the tach and speedo on the dash.
Street box allowed for full control over fuel, ignition and VVT. Revs where limited to about 7K. All else was controlled by the stock ECU.
09-02-2010, 01:09 AM
#69
With the AEM street box, the crank signal winds up almost inaudible by it therefore not allowing the revs. With the race box, we made changes to make the signal be loud and clear up to 8K revs.
09-06-2010, 04:33 AM
#72
Senior Member
Music City Scions
SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,372
This was sent to me from someone off these forums and told me it works perfect.
You need to cut two wires from the jumper harness. You are going to tape up the part that goes
to the stock ECU and use the one that goes to the harness side. One of them is for the A/C
request and the other is for A/C clutch relay.
The A/C request is pin E-5 30 on the jumper harness and goes to pin A27 (switch#6)on the AEM.
The A/C clutch relay output is pin E-5 pin 2 on the jumper harness and goes to
pin A17 (Low side driver#6 =LS#6) on the AEM.
After connecting the wires but before starting the car you need to setup the correct input
and outputs on Setup/Air Conditioner/Options A/C
There you must set the A/C Request Input to Switch #6 Gnd=Off and the A/C Clutch to LS6.
These settings should make your A/C come back to life. I suggest:
A/C Min Speed = 600 rpm's
A/C Off Above TPS = 80% (this automatically shuts down the A/C Compressor
when you hammer the engine and the TPS goes over 80%)
You then have to tune the other two Options A/C parameters; A/C On Delay and the Idle A/C Load Comp.
You need to cut two wires from the jumper harness. You are going to tape up the part that goes
to the stock ECU and use the one that goes to the harness side. One of them is for the A/C
request and the other is for A/C clutch relay.
The A/C request is pin E-5 30 on the jumper harness and goes to pin A27 (switch#6)on the AEM.
The A/C clutch relay output is pin E-5 pin 2 on the jumper harness and goes to
pin A17 (Low side driver#6 =LS#6) on the AEM.
After connecting the wires but before starting the car you need to setup the correct input
and outputs on Setup/Air Conditioner/Options A/C
There you must set the A/C Request Input to Switch #6 Gnd=Off and the A/C Clutch to LS6.
These settings should make your A/C come back to life. I suggest:
A/C Min Speed = 600 rpm's
A/C Off Above TPS = 80% (this automatically shuts down the A/C Compressor
when you hammer the engine and the TPS goes over 80%)
You then have to tune the other two Options A/C parameters; A/C On Delay and the Idle A/C Load Comp.
09-07-2010, 07:54 PM
#75
To get rid of the stock ecu, will need a cable driven TB, lots of rewiring of things like the dash cluster and such. It's possible, but a lot of work.
