Dezod APR X1 Inline ECU Tuning Q&A
Thanks for the feedback.
My shift light works fine, it's the actual rev-limiting, blown-engine-preventing fuel cut that doesn't work. If you have the time or are curious about whether you actually have working over-rev protection, try setting rpmmax to 5450 and see if it ever cuts fuel like the oem ECU does. I bet it doesn't.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the feedback.
I recall where I let my adjusted redline creep up faster than I should've and it did cut fuel; but I'll try setting my rpmmax lower. I wanted to tinker with a "valet" tune with a low vehicle max speed and rpm max anyways.
That would be great. I could easily be wrong and it might work fine for you. I just don't understand how it can work for some but not for me. The only difference is transmissions and I can't see why having a AT would affect a rpm-based fuel cut.
The stock ECU looks to these signals for example to determine shifts...
Shift solenoid valve DSL, Speed sensor NT, Speed sensor NC, Crankshaft position sensor (NE), Throttle position sensor (VPA1), Mass air flow sensor (MAF), Transmission temperature sensor (THO1), Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT).
Notice MAF is in this equation. If your intake pipe is still causing some haywire, that may be causing the trans issue as well. That pipe was causing weird MAF readings prior, therefore, let's wait and see when you finish this new pipe if the problem persists. Again, let's see one thing at a time here progress and the problems should work themselves out just fine.
I just noticed you updated the other thread, so I am assuming all is well now as suspected.
Brett, your setup was VERY unique and far from logical originally. As suspected all along, I had a feeling it was something mechanical.
The X1 CAN compensate for different MAF IDs, however if the pipe that the MAF sits in if FUBARed in design, the X1 nor any engine management can not fix that nor your flat tire. You can tune around BS and mechanical issues, but it's pointless to do so. Simply correct the mechanical flaw or design and move on to a happier way of being.
Did you notice what all of your other engine managements had in common that you mentioned? They all read of MAP based systems, which are less accurate! GReddy, Haltech & AEM FIC both use MAP based setups. MAF is MUCH more sensitive to changes and airflow, therefore everything needs to be clicking right 100% otherwise, it's unhappy and will make your life hell. It's the price of using a more accurate system and sensor.
None of those systems mentioned alter the MAF in any way other than MAYBE clamping it so it does not see boost, which most people don't do right ANYWAY! All fuel changes and calcs are based off of what the pressure sensor sees and not the MAF like on the X1. So please, try to comprehend the concepts at hand before spewing incorrect information all over about what something can and can not do.
XPRTc in this thread has a 3" intake on his Turbonetics kit that is X1 tuned. Minus his heat soak issue at low speeds and idle, the car cruising and WOT is a champ.
(Edit) On a more positive note, I had my new 3" intake fabbed yesterday, installed it today and the 1-2 shift issue is gone. I wish I had known sooner that the X1 can't modify the MAF signal to the ECU to compensate for MAF pipe changes (like the FIC, Greddy, Apexi, Unichip, Haltech, etc. can). That would have saved me a LOT of wasted time. It's still odd that I never had this shift problem with stock ECU or FIC when using the same 2.75" intake but I'm just happy to have this problem resolved.
As an added bonus, the new intake produces a more linear and uniform MAF signal which has greatly improved closed loop (ECU control) fuel trims and overall 'smoothness'. I've only had the 3" intake on for a few hours now but it appears that it's made a huge improvement in closed loop. Now I need to look at my 2 WOT X1 logs to see how the X1 likes the new intake. I hope it likes it as much as the ECU does. I just hope I'm not wasting more time and money on the X1 because frankly, if the rev-limiting fuel cut (RPMMAX) isn't fixed in a timely fashion, I'll be moving on to another EMU.
As an added bonus, the new intake produces a more linear and uniform MAF signal which has greatly improved closed loop (ECU control) fuel trims and overall 'smoothness'. I've only had the 3" intake on for a few hours now but it appears that it's made a huge improvement in closed loop. Now I need to look at my 2 WOT X1 logs to see how the X1 likes the new intake. I hope it likes it as much as the ECU does. I just hope I'm not wasting more time and money on the X1 because frankly, if the rev-limiting fuel cut (RPMMAX) isn't fixed in a timely fashion, I'll be moving on to another EMU.
The X1 CAN compensate for different MAF IDs, however if the pipe that the MAF sits in if FUBARed in design, the X1 nor any engine management can not fix that nor your flat tire. You can tune around BS and mechanical issues, but it's pointless to do so. Simply correct the mechanical flaw or design and move on to a happier way of being.
Did you notice what all of your other engine managements had in common that you mentioned? They all read of MAP based systems, which are less accurate! GReddy, Haltech & AEM FIC both use MAP based setups. MAF is MUCH more sensitive to changes and airflow, therefore everything needs to be clicking right 100% otherwise, it's unhappy and will make your life hell. It's the price of using a more accurate system and sensor.
None of those systems mentioned alter the MAF in any way other than MAYBE clamping it so it does not see boost, which most people don't do right ANYWAY! All fuel changes and calcs are based off of what the pressure sensor sees and not the MAF like on the X1. So please, try to comprehend the concepts at hand before spewing incorrect information all over about what something can and can not do.
XPRTc in this thread has a 3" intake on his Turbonetics kit that is X1 tuned. Minus his heat soak issue at low speeds and idle, the car cruising and WOT is a champ.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 290
From: FORT WAYNE, IN
Sorry guys havent been on much. Business is boomin at the shop and I quit smokin with left me with no patience. But it did leave me with 84 more dollars a week to waste on me car. YAY!! ScionFred my rev limiter works great ill try it at the lowest setting for you and see if it cuts.
Sorry guys havent been on much. Business is boomin at the shop and I quit smokin with left me with no patience. But it did leave me with 84 more dollars a week to waste on me car. YAY!! ScionFred my rev limiter works great ill try it at the lowest setting for you and see if it cuts.
My shift light warning works great but this is what I see as the rev-limit is met and passed:

Please note how the ECU (X1.fuel.InjPortMassOEM1.Y) cuts fuel precisely at 6500rpm but the X1 (X1.fuel.InjPortMass1.Y) continues to fire the injectors past the rpmmax setting of 6500rpm all the way to 7228 rpm when I lifted.
Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 11, 2010 at 07:04 AM.
Brett, I think I remember you inquiring about MAF loads (g/s)? I can't recall which thread it was haha. Anyways, looking at my idle load the X1 was 3.2 g/s and the OBD read 1.92 g/s I believe in the tuning guide it says within 5 g/s is acceptable.
How's it run?
BTW, I couldn't find any nylon M4-7 machine screws locally (big surprise) but I did find nylon washers at Home Depot. I used the washers to insulate the MAF mounting plate from the AL pipe. An added benefit is that the washers raise the MAF body off the AL flange by the thickness of the washer. Now the only thermally conductive contacts are the rubber o-ring seal and the nylon washers. I doubt it helped much but for under a $1, why not try it. The big improvement will come when I find the right insulation wrap for my intake and IC pipes.
Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 5, 2010 at 05:11 AM.
I'll have to check it out. Yeah it runs pretty well it obviously needs to be Cleaned up a bit since I fixed those leaks and added the heat shield. I used DEI heat reflective tape from Advance Auto. I think it helps but I don't really have any hard numbers. The heat shield helped keep the IATs a bit too. My charge pipe was resting on the bare radiator hose before too, but now I slid the little foam sleeve under the pipe to keep heat contact away.
I'll have to check it out. Yeah it runs pretty well it obviously needs to be Cleaned up a bit since I fixed those leaks and added the heat shield. I used DEI heat reflective tape from Advance Auto. I think it helps but I don't really have any hard numbers. The heat shield helped keep the IATs a bit too. My charge pipe was resting on the bare radiator hose before too, but now I slid the little foam sleeve under the pipe to keep heat contact away.
That DEI tape looks good but I'm hoping to find a non-adhesive wrap with some thin insulation behind the reflective facing.
I hope you have better luck than I did. Mine ran pretty good the day I installed the X1 and I've been trying to clean it up ever since. Have you had any bad-flash issues yet? There have been numerous occasions when I flashed the X1 and the progress bar finished but the flash was corrupt and the X1 went haywire. It was so bad in the beginning that I sent it back to Dezod to test because I was convinced it was a wiring problem. It rarely happens any more since I now close all other programs, disconnect my OBD scantool and say a Hail Mary before flashing. X-tune still crashes almost every time I close it but it eventually shuts down after a minute or two.
That DEI tape looks good but I'm hoping to find a non-adhesive wrap with some thin insulation behind the reflective facing.
That DEI tape looks good but I'm hoping to find a non-adhesive wrap with some thin insulation behind the reflective facing.
Can you get money back? possible legal action?
I hope you have better luck than I did. Mine ran pretty good the day I installed the X1 and I've been trying to clean it up ever since. Have you had any bad-flash issues yet? There have been numerous occasions when I flashed the X1 and the progress bar finished but the flash was corrupt and the X1 went haywire. It was so bad in the beginning that I sent it back to Dezod to test because I was convinced it was a wiring problem. It rarely happens any more since I now close all other programs, disconnect my OBD scantool and say a Hail Mary before flashing. X-tune still crashes almost every time I close it but it eventually shuts down after a minute or two.
That DEI tape looks good but I'm hoping to find a non-adhesive wrap with some thin insulation behind the reflective facing.
That DEI tape looks good but I'm hoping to find a non-adhesive wrap with some thin insulation behind the reflective facing.
I forgot to mention that I'm using a Randode MAF adapter plate since the Turbonetics kit is for 05-06 and I have a 2010. Randode recently changed their material from aluminum to ABS plastic. I don't really like having to use a MAF adapter plate because I've found that running a boost leak test with with the charge pipe on the plate leaks as well as the adapter plate screws... I used RTV and some liquid thread sealant to help remedy that problem.



I don't think either option would be fair to Dezod. I knew going into this that I was beta testing the X1 on the first boosted XB2 to use it and that there were risks involved. Paul tested the X1 on his shop XB to make sure it worked well before selling me one but his XB is a MT and stock. I don't believe that I was ever intentionally misled or lied to. When Paul says that the X1 has worked great on all the TCs they've put it on and their shop XB2, I believe him. The difference in our experiences probably has a lot to do with MT vs AT. AFAIK mine is the first non-Tacoma vehicle to use the X1 with a AT.
My biggest complaint about the X1 is that I expected it to be a lot more PnP and a lot less tuning intensive, like it is for the Tacoma V6 users. It's actually far more capable than what I need but I bought it for the self-tuning aspect that didn't pan out for my particular application. I pretty much agree with Paul and David Phillips (APR) that it is possible to acheive a great X1 tune on my car but I'm running out of patience with the time and effort involved. Having a AT greatly adds to the tuning complexity. Not only do I have to get the fuel and timing right but I also have to ensure that the ECU gets the right load readings to shift properly. David Phillips has been very helpful throughout and even gave me his cell #. He also tweaked my tune for me and had the fuel pretty close but then the trans wasn't shifting right. Changing the ECU load to correct for the shifting problem changed the fuel tune so it was back to square one again. The X1 rev-limiter not working on my car is yet another big concern but APR is looking into it.
If I'm the only person having X1 flash issues then it is probably due to my use of a PC-based OBD scantool. I've noticed that in most cases the bad flash occurs if I forget to disconnect my usb scantool from my netbook. I've also just recently noted a way to detect a bad flash before it causes problems. The X1 has a timer that runs whenever X-tune is connected to the X1. During a good flash the timer stops while flashing and resumes from 0 after the flash completes. On a bad flash the timer keeps running throughout the flash and doesn't reset to 0 after. I just have to watch for this while flashing. If the flash goes bad I just close X-tune, restart it, make sure my scantool is disconnected, all other running apps are closed and re-flash the X1. X-tune may have a few bugs but overall it does the job. My flash problems could well be just a driver conflict between the X1 and Palmer USB drivers. The hanging on program closure is just a minor annoyance really.
My biggest complaint about the X1 is that I expected it to be a lot more PnP and a lot less tuning intensive, like it is for the Tacoma V6 users. It's actually far more capable than what I need but I bought it for the self-tuning aspect that didn't pan out for my particular application. I pretty much agree with Paul and David Phillips (APR) that it is possible to acheive a great X1 tune on my car but I'm running out of patience with the time and effort involved. Having a AT greatly adds to the tuning complexity. Not only do I have to get the fuel and timing right but I also have to ensure that the ECU gets the right load readings to shift properly. David Phillips has been very helpful throughout and even gave me his cell #. He also tweaked my tune for me and had the fuel pretty close but then the trans wasn't shifting right. Changing the ECU load to correct for the shifting problem changed the fuel tune so it was back to square one again. The X1 rev-limiter not working on my car is yet another big concern but APR is looking into it.
If I'm the only person having X1 flash issues then it is probably due to my use of a PC-based OBD scantool. I've noticed that in most cases the bad flash occurs if I forget to disconnect my usb scantool from my netbook. I've also just recently noted a way to detect a bad flash before it causes problems. The X1 has a timer that runs whenever X-tune is connected to the X1. During a good flash the timer stops while flashing and resumes from 0 after the flash completes. On a bad flash the timer keeps running throughout the flash and doesn't reset to 0 after. I just have to watch for this while flashing. If the flash goes bad I just close X-tune, restart it, make sure my scantool is disconnected, all other running apps are closed and re-flash the X1. X-tune may have a few bugs but overall it does the job. My flash problems could well be just a driver conflict between the X1 and Palmer USB drivers. The hanging on program closure is just a minor annoyance really.
Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 5, 2010 at 09:18 PM.
Wow that's crazy! I'm not having any problems with flashing at all.
I forgot to mention that I'm using a Randode MAF adapter plate since the Turbonetics kit is for 05-06 and I have a 2010. Randode recently changed their material from aluminum to ABS plastic. I don't really like having to use a MAF adapter plate because I've found that running a boost leak test with with the charge pipe on the plate leaks as well as the adapter plate screws... I used RTV and some liquid thread sealant to help remedy that problem.
I forgot to mention that I'm using a Randode MAF adapter plate since the Turbonetics kit is for 05-06 and I have a 2010. Randode recently changed their material from aluminum to ABS plastic. I don't really like having to use a MAF adapter plate because I've found that running a boost leak test with with the charge pipe on the plate leaks as well as the adapter plate screws... I used RTV and some liquid thread sealant to help remedy that problem.
I like your setup, especially the airbox. That and the radiant tape should help somewhat with the heat-soaked IAT sensor. Looking at your MAF setup I can't help but wonder if your IAT might be spaced too far out of the air stream? The MAF flange is fairly tall and then the Randode adapter adds even more. It's hard to gauge accurate dimensions from those photos though. How thick is that adapter plate? I made one out of 1/8" thick AL bar stock from Home Depot to use with a 05-06 TC CAI I modded to fit my car back in 07. Unfortunately it wouldn't work for you now since I cut it down to use on my CXR intake because the MAF flange was messed up.
BTW, where did you get that rubber edge guard for the airbox? I need some.
Last edited by ScionFred; Sep 5, 2010 at 08:18 PM.
I'm glad to hear that you're not having the same X1 flash problems I had. It was a nightmare until I figured out what was causing it.
I like your setup, especially the airbox. That and the radiant tape should help somewhat with the heat-soaked IAT sensor. Looking at your MAF setup I can't help but wonder if your IAT might be spaced too far out of the air stream? The MAF flange is fairly tall and then the Randode adapter adds even more. It's hard to accurately gauge accurate dimensions from those photos though. How thick is that adapter plate? I made one out of 1/8" thick AL bar stock from Home Depot to use with a 05-06 TC CAI I modded to fit my car back in 07. Unfortunately it wouldn't work for you now since I cut it down to use on my CXR intake because the MAF flange was messed up.
I like your setup, especially the airbox. That and the radiant tape should help somewhat with the heat-soaked IAT sensor. Looking at your MAF setup I can't help but wonder if your IAT might be spaced too far out of the air stream? The MAF flange is fairly tall and then the Randode adapter adds even more. It's hard to accurately gauge accurate dimensions from those photos though. How thick is that adapter plate? I made one out of 1/8" thick AL bar stock from Home Depot to use with a 05-06 TC CAI I modded to fit my car back in 07. Unfortunately it wouldn't work for you now since I cut it down to use on my CXR intake because the MAF flange was messed up.
Thanks for the compliment on the air box. One of the guys at Street Tuned Motorsports (Rochester, NY) fabricated it for me. As for the thickness of the MAF adapter, I was a little taken aback how thick it was too when I first got it. It's about 1/4" thick and as far as I know it's not too tall to receive quality air flow readings. I did buy a MAF flange from Dezod which I'm still thinking of using for a blow through set up though. The only thing holding me back from doing it is having to completely retune; and the thought of currently being one small clean up tune away from having my car run better since fixing a handful of leaks and getting a new vented hood soon.
Hmm that's interesting, I didn't know you were using a scan tool PC program. I'm using an Actron Scan Tool that you can find at Advance Auto or Sears.
Thanks for the compliment on the air box. One of the guys at Street Tuned Motorsports (Rochester, NY) fabricated it for me. As for the thickness of the MAF adapter, I was a little taken aback how thick it was too when I first got it. It's about 1/4" thick and as far as I know it's not too tall to receive quality air flow readings. I did buy a MAF flange from Dezod which I'm still thinking of using for a blow through set up though. The only thing holding me back from doing it is having to completely retune; and the thought of currently being one small clean up tune away from having my car run better since fixing a handful of leaks and getting a new vented hood soon.
Thanks for the compliment on the air box. One of the guys at Street Tuned Motorsports (Rochester, NY) fabricated it for me. As for the thickness of the MAF adapter, I was a little taken aback how thick it was too when I first got it. It's about 1/4" thick and as far as I know it's not too tall to receive quality air flow readings. I did buy a MAF flange from Dezod which I'm still thinking of using for a blow through set up though. The only thing holding me back from doing it is having to completely retune; and the thought of currently being one small clean up tune away from having my car run better since fixing a handful of leaks and getting a new vented hood soon.
That's a tough call between blow-thru or draw-thru at this point. Blow-thru seems to work better for everyone who uses it but it can be a serious hassle to convert. In my case I'd have to change much of my piping, re-locate the BOV and then have to somehow compensate for my MAF being in a 2.5" tube vs 3" oem. It looks like you would also have to re-locate your BOV but at least in your case, your MAF tube would match oem pretty closely; which it doesn't now. Since Paul is tuning it, I suppose I'd ask him and follow his advice.
Im also using Scan XL with an elmscancompact interface. Only selecting the PID's you wish to monitor will drastically increase refresh interval
I currently have mine set to monitor ltft, stft, timing advance, fuel system (ol/cl), ect, and iat. Mine now refreshes extremely quick compared to when i had the pid config page selected to "all"
I currently have mine set to monitor ltft, stft, timing advance, fuel system (ol/cl), ect, and iat. Mine now refreshes extremely quick compared to when i had the pid config page selected to "all" Im also using Scan XL with an elmscancompact interface. Only selecting the PID's you wish to monitor will drastically increase refresh interval
I currently have mine set to monitor ltft, stft, timing advance, fuel system (ol/cl), ect, and iat. Mine now refreshes extremely quick compared to when i had the pid config page selected to "all" 
I currently have mine set to monitor ltft, stft, timing advance, fuel system (ol/cl), ect, and iat. Mine now refreshes extremely quick compared to when i had the pid config page selected to "all" The X1 is still much faster though. IIRC it captures like 40 data pts per second. It's probably too much really but I have noticed that ScanXL will sometimes miss a spike that the X1 captures 10 times.





