Thats almost the same as my setup i made for myself. Looks great! A+

 

Nice. But i give it 6 months before both companies make dual pump kits.

 

No offense but that rail/fpr layout looks exactly like the "competiton" and is somewhat disaapointing w/ the lack of originality based on the release time.

Is there any planned option for dual intake pump setup for those looking for a "bolt-on" fuel system to support 550+whp?

 

I will say this setup and the "competitions" both look really nice......and they also look INCREDIBLY similar...even down to fitting and line color. Either way nice job though

 

looks good great work Dezod FTW!!

 

Right.... but honestly how many ways can you make a fuel setup? All the aftermarket fuel rails look the same. Lines and fittings.... uhhh well I mean I guess you have your choice of black or silver lines and then the whole red/blue or standard silver fittings. Best place to mount the FPR and gauge is on the rail so it doesn't take up space elsewhere. I'm definitely seeing duplicates, but I honestly wouldn't want it differently just to be different. It works. Nuff said.

Dezod has the one-up by modding the fuel pump for you and making this a complete bolt-in. If you're doing this yourself, that makes it a TON easier.

 

Agreed the fuel pump is definitely nice, and although there are many ways to do the fuel setup this is definitely a nice kit.... nice job Dezod

 

Both have nice setups I am not going to discredit one or the other. Paul the only thing I don't like is how close the fitting is to the head/block other than that looks great! Is the AEM FPR 1:1?

 

i'll even agree, both kits will provide plenty of fuel, which is all that matters here. both kits have there strong points. dezods kit comes 100% plug and play, and does not use the stock feed line as a return line. on the other hand, ptuning has the option for a swirl pot. so pick one, get it, and go fast.

 

You know, we had taken into account. We had considered mounting on the firewall and a few other places (the regulator), however all of which had severe draw backs in Don's and my opinion.

For example, mounting on the firewall could be disruptive if you have a vac manifold mounted there, our a tab for a catch can (I saw on one customer's car), or your IAC (where plenty of you mount it for the AEM EMS)...

The rail location for the AEM FPR came one of the only viable options after time and evaluation. We felt it would be counter-productive to have the FP gauge anywhere else even if the car was on the dyno or something too.

*****Edit: I stand corrected on the "heat transfer" issue with respect to the rail location as it being a possible factor. I apologize for the mis-info SL.*****

With respect to "color" options. Black was our only choice. We felt anything else takes away from the stealth appeal that most customers, including ourselves where looking for.

Line choice, we could have used SS braided instead of the black braid, but a lot of people liked the black braid for again the stealth look. With respect to fittings......fittings are fittings are fittings....

 

The $250 includes the pump in the quote.

 

LOL @ the competition. Saying that we "copied" their regulator design. It's quite laughable actually. There are limited spots to put the unit to begin with. I had previously stated that we had explored numerous options in a previous post, but to no avail, this was sufficient. Next he is gonna say we copied them because our rail looks like a stock or theirs.

Or maybe that we used -6 lines.......

Or maybe a walbro 255.....

or maybe we eat the same foods....drink the same water


How could we have copied a design we have never seen before?

What will this crazy individual think of next? Comical again. I swear sometimes he is here for my comic relief.

Also, I would like to comment on the fact of this whole TT car. For starters, we have been heavily involved in a factory backed program involving Dan Gardner for the past several years prior to your car ever existing. Dan had Progress, Kami and quite a few others in which you had "copied" his sponsor roles to benefit off of his R&D. So, before you go pointing the stick, let's take a closer look in the mirror.

I am done with the masquerade. If you want to speak to us, you know how to get a hold of us. Enough forum bantering as this is childish.

 

Paul, you are the man. [/story]

 

I can vouch for paul, I had talked to him about this return system a few months back (think it was way before christmas) and they were thinking of putting the reg on the fire wall but had a few concerns he shared with me. If they put it on the back part of the fire wall you wouldnt have a gauge to be able to read fuel pressure, if you put it in the upper part of the fire wall (like most put their vac blocks) those who have a strut tower brace would be screwed.

now you could perhaps mount the reg to the lower firewall and remote mount the pressure gauge to upper part of the fire wall but still if you had a strut tower brace it would block your view of the gauge, not to mention cost more for line and two fittings to work. Anyone who has gone out and got your own fittings they can get expensive depending on were you go.

The only other way id like to see it done is to skip the gauge but have a fitting to allow you to quickly put a gauge on it for testing purposes but have a pressure sending unit on the reg and mount a gauge in the cabin.

Another idea is to place the reg and gauge on the strut tower on the drivers side (not the top but lower portion) however you would end up either drilling holes there or have a really funky mounting bracket. This would prolly be the cheapest idea but not the cleanest look cause of the funky bracket.

The way its done on both brands is the simplest, cheapest, cleanest, and most streight forward you could get with this item. I give both props on the clean look.

 

with the pump. If you don't need the pump we can figure something out but to be honest with the time that goes into modding it it's not going to me much cheaper without the pump.

There is no plug needed on this sending unit. We remove the regulator completely. Because we use a dedicated return line and have a dedicated feed line straight out of the sending unit we do not need to plug where the regulator was. It stays open and we use the path to return fuel to the bottom of the sending unit.

I understand your point of view but lets be fair and say that this is not exactly like the competition. There are several differences. Layout is similar but having never seen theirs or whatever I would still lay it out this way. Many other tC guys have mounted the regulator on the shock towers and I just didn't want to do that. And like paul was saying with all the possible add ons like a vac manifold and catch can etc there really was no other choice than to figure a way to mount ours this way. Mounting it this way allows everything to move as one and no lines to flex when the engine rocks. We were limited by available space and not causing a problem down the road. It happens, this made the most logical sense. I stand by our decision.


This is in my mind the only real way to make a fuel system. Unfortunately for us Scion/Toyota decided to make this returnless. So convert it to return we must. It's funny because all of the plastic is there on the stock unit as if it were originally from a normal return setup. They just changed an existing design and blow molded some holes shut.

Thanks for the kind words.

The AEM FPR is a 1:1 I am not a fan of that either but to be honest with the way toyota constructed the head and in keeping with stock height denso style injectors this is what we had to work with. I could have designed the rail to be a bit shorter but the threads would have been obstructing the number one injector feed bore and I didn't want to take a chance with that. I asked paul to take the pictures of the fitting to show that there was no cylinder head modifications needed to clear it. I knew that it would be bone of contention but I wanted to show the community that it was not a problem. The rail, fittings, line and regulator come pre-assembled so that there are no questions on how these are supposed to go on. All you need to do is pull your rail and parts, install injectors into the new rail, pop it on and tighten it down. Done deal. You will need to set your desired fuel pressure.

 

Yeah agreed the only thing is that not everyone buys a fuel pressure gauge for inside the car so we supply a gauge on the regulator so that you can set your FP other wise you have no idea what it is. If you had a sending unit you would just remove the gauge and install your sending unit in it's place.

 

the reason i said maybe have an extra fitting to have a quick disconnect gauge so when your adjusting pressure your not running back and forth between the engine bay and cabin trying to get the pressure right. IMHO ther needs to be a gauge near the reg so you can see right away what your doing.

 

I have one last idea...I have thought about this idea for an mbc but could possibly work for this. Flush mount a gauge on an air diversion panel and mount the reg just bellow the panel so the adjustment nut peeks from the top of the panel. cost more in fittings and line but would be pretty trick.

 

The gauge is connected to the regulator. It stares you in the face when you are setting the pressure

 

Walmart asking for hand outs................

Anyway, no need to bring fuel into your car. Gauge mounted where it is is cost effective (to the end consumer), won't interfere with strut bars, IACs, Vac manifolds, catch cans, no weird brackets needed. Simple and works. End of story.