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For the harness that came with the FIC do we use Crk Magi+ (green), Crk Magi- (green) & Cam 1 Magi+(yellow), Cam 1 Magi-(yellow) ? same as the boomslang harness? just different colored wires???
So I tried doing this mod since I was having P0340 code thrown and it still is throwing the same code. Ive looked at the directions multiple times to make sure I am doing everything right. All is wired correctly and soder is solid. Any ideas what else it could be?
I read this resistor mod thread in its entirity. I have just completed a turbo kit installation in my 2ZR-FE swapped 2006 Toyota Yaris RS (auto transmission). If you are at all interested in the build, you can check out these links; which are essentially the same:
I installed the turbokits.com 2009+ kit. I have an ECU from a 2008 Scion xD and a 2011 xD harness. I am currently in the process of 'fine-tuning' the car. I have already had my dyno tune, but will likely have to go back for another (maybe a street tune this time) as I'm struggling with a few issues. One of which, is the bucking at around 3100 rpm under moderate load. Depressing the throttle a little more stops the bucking. I was particularly interested in your comments regarding how large changes in fueling in adjacent cells in the fuel map may cause this behaviour. I am going to attach an image below which indicates precisely where/when the bucking occurs. You'll note that these two highlighted cells indicate a richening (or at least a decreasing of fuel pull) presumeably with the onset of boost. I have never set a crank code and the F/IC is NOT connected to the cams at all, as suggested by turbokits and my tuner. My tuner has suggested adding fuel to the cells that I've highlighted in the pic below. I am very interested in your thoughts.
I have a couple of other issues that may be unrelated: hard starting and an intermittent stumble at idle once the car has reached operating temps. The stumbling is not terrible, and occurs every couple of minutes and the car will dip in rpm and recover immediately. If I have my A/C on and come to a stop, the car may stall, but this is rare.
Also, I am only achieving a max of 5.4 pounds boost. Other than the aforementioned issues, the car runs wonderfully.
I'd greatly appreciate your thoughts on my issues, especially, at this point, with regard to the applicability of the crank resistor mod in my application.
I read this resistor mod thread in its entirity. I have just completed a turbo kit installation in my 2ZR-FE swapped 2006 Toyota Yaris RS (auto transmission). If you are at all interested in the build, you can check out these links; which are essentially the same:
I installed the turbokits.com 2009+ kit. I have an ECU from a 2008 Scion xD and a 2011 xD harness. I am currently in the process of 'fine-tuning' the car. I have already had my dyno tune, but will likely have to go back for another (maybe a street tune this time) as I'm struggling with a few issues. One of which, is the bucking at around 3100 rpm under moderate load. Depressing the throttle a little more stops the bucking. I was particularly interested in your comments regarding how large changes in fueling in adjacent cells in the fuel map may cause this behaviour. I am going to attach an image below which indicates precisely where/when the bucking occurs. You'll note that these two highlighted cells indicate a richening (or at least a decreasing of fuel pull) presumeably with the onset of boost. I have never set a crank code and the F/IC is NOT connected to the cams at all, as suggested by turbokits and my tuner. My tuner has suggested adding fuel to the cells that I've highlighted in the pic below. I am very interested in your thoughts.
I have a couple of other issues that may be unrelated: hard starting and an intermittent stumble at idle once the car has reached operating temps. The stumbling is not terrible, and occurs every couple of minutes and the car will dip in rpm and recover immediately. If I have my A/C on and come to a stop, the car may stall, but this is rare.
Also, I am only achieving a max of 5.4 pounds boost. Other than the aforementioned issues, the car runs wonderfully.
I'd greatly appreciate your thoughts on my issues, especially, at this point, with regard to the applicability of the crank resistor mod in my application.
Please see embedded pic.
Thanks in advance,
Adam
It's a bit more expensive, but after all of the problems I've had with the piggybacks, my tC is gonna be swapped to a ProEFI 128. Tune after tune I had some sort of issue, and after over a year of a problem with it being hot outside and the car not starting or starting and running like absolute trash, I figured out the problem. It being hot outside got the car so hot inside, that the piggyback housing was so hot (it's made of metal) that whatever handles the cam position sensor would malfunction causing a cam position sensor error. Then there's other little tuning issues that I can't get solved. One benefit to the ProEFI is remote tuning. Even easier for the street tune.
Btw it's funny because Yaris is one of the cheapest cars to buy new and I was considering getting one so I had something reliable while I worked on swapping the piggyback, now I can't get a Yaris or I would be inclined to do this build myself haha. Really cool though!
It's a bit more expensive, but after all of the problems I've had with the piggybacks, my tC is gonna be swapped to a ProEFI 128. Tune after tune I had some sort of issue, and after over a year of a problem with it being hot outside and the car not starting or starting and running like absolute trash, I figured out the problem. It being hot outside got the car so hot inside, that the piggyback housing was so hot (it's made of metal) that whatever handles the cam position sensor would malfunction causing a cam position sensor error. Then there's other little tuning issues that I can't get solved. One benefit to the ProEFI is remote tuning. Even easier for the street tune.
Btw it's funny because Yaris is one of the cheapest cars to buy new and I was considering getting one so I had something reliable while I worked on swapping the piggyback, now I can't get a Yaris or I would be inclined to do this build myself haha. Really cool though!
Thanks IFeelYourPain! I really should have saved and gone with a standalone. I did look at the Haltech 550 and EMS-4 but never determined how they would handle DBW and my peripherals. I have managed to almost completely erradicate the stumbling, but it has made for a pretty funky fuel table. I'll check with my tuner to see if I can run with the changes I've made. It basically consisted of adding fuel in the 'offending' cells. AFRs look good after the changes I made.
Thanks IFeelYourPain! I really should have saved and gone with a standalone. I did look at the Haltech 550 and EMS-4 but never determined how they would handle DBW and my peripherals. I have managed to almost completely erradicate the stumbling, but it has made for a pretty funky fuel table. I'll check with my tuner to see if I can run with the changes I've made. It basically consisted of adding fuel in the 'offending' cells. AFRs look good after the changes I made.
I almost wonder if the ECU is learning the modifications and trying to correct them.
I spoke with a very helpful guy from Booslang yesterday and he definitely recommended installing the 2.2K ohm resistor. What I forgot to ask him was if the resistor can be installed near the F/IC end of the harness as opposed to up closer to the ECU. Not sure if it makes any difference. I'd rather install it by the F/IC so I don't have to cut into my custom ECU harness that is in conduit and all taped up. I'll be picking up a 2.2K Ohm resistor today as well as trying to get back in touch with Boomslang for guidance on installation. I am hopeful that this helps with my intermittent idle stumble. I've pretty much erradicated the bucking at moderate throttle by adding fuel in the 'offending' cells on the fuel map.
ires???
03-24-2014, 11:03 PM
