Hey guys just wanted to let you know that today I just finished the install on my modified valve body from IPT.
I originally took out the valve body and sent it to them Monday. The box got there Tuesday morning.
They tried to finish it that day but they just couldn’t get it done in time for the outgoing UPS that day.
So they went ahead and finished it up first thing Wednesday and sent it out. I received it this morning and this is what it looked like!





Before all this I had to take the valve body out. By doing this I had to drop the trans pan. Then I had to loosen up the 3 bolts holding the filter on. Then I disconnected all the plugs and they removed the 17 bolts holding the valve body in.
If you do this make sure you draw on a piece of cardboard and mark where all the bolts go. There are different lengths throughout the body and if you don’t it will be a pain to install once again.



Here is the cardborad that I drew on. Im not no artist!!!! LOL



This is what it will look like when you have removed the valve body.



When removing the valve body you’ll have some parts fall out with it. You’ll have 2 springs a check ball complete with a really small spring.
One of the bigger springs are in some kind of cup when it comes out. Take note the smaller spring of the two goes inside the cup that way you done get them mixed up during the install.

Inside the box was also a necessary resistor that I had to install on one of the plugs of the shifting solenoid on the valve body. This resistor I was told effects how that one solenoid acts.





For the install you will need the help of a friend. before you put the valve body back in you’ll need you friend to help place the parts that fell out after removing the body. I ended up lining everything up on the valve body slowly raise the valve body back in while my friend made sure everything was staying lined up.
Also take note in the back of the valve body there is the gear selector piston. Make sure you line that up with the shifter mechanism. I didn’t do this and I had to take it all back apart once done and then loosen up the valve body so I could slip it in there! It wasn’t good and I was ____es I forgot to do that!!!!
Once I got it up in there my friend went ahead and started a few bolts to hold the valve body in. Then we went around and put the rest in and this is what it looked like.

Torque bolts to 8 ft. lbs



Now to install the resistor you had to tap it into the plug with the green and orange wire (second solenoid on the passenger side toward the bock of the valve body)





Once this was done I put the pan back up and torque the bolts to 67 in. lbf

Then I put ATF in it and started it up checked the fluid and then I was ready to ride!!

This file really helped me with taking the valve body apart and install. Also gave me all the torque values and shows the check ball, 2 springs and the cup that falls out with the valve body

http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...2f/x040001.pdf

Hope this helps some people and if you have any questions just let me know and ill try to anserew them as best I can.

Here is IPT website
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml

Chris

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What does this do exactly?

 

watching, interesting to see people working on othe stuff

 

a little fyi, next time you can use trans. grease and hold the checkball in place with that! I have done it and works great!

 

Very nice job man.

 

This upgrade is almost like a shift kit. It shifts quicker and puts less stress on the clutch packs inside the trans. Also is supposed to stop the trans from slipping in first gear they are known to do that once you get over a certain WHP.
Thanks for the info T urbo Charged!!

 

How much did u spend doing this? Any cons?

 

What im wondering, is how much more power will this really make the tranny handle or will it still fail with much more than 250whp due to the clutches and such not being upgraded. If this thing will get me to the 300-325 mark reliably man i might have to do it - its really not that expensive and wont require pulling the motor/tranny - i ahve both of these pulled at the moment for the second time and really dont feel like doing it again lol

 

It cost me about $640. Its a little pricy but it sure beats a whole nother tranny. Plus I didnt have to take the whole trans out to do this which is great!!! As far as cons go I havent seen any yet and cant see there being one.

 

ANy idea what this will bring the capabilities of our auto up to?? What kind of setup are you running (fi wise)

 

Not quite sure I have to talk to IPT a little more and see what they say.
I am running a ZPI stage 1 kit

 

Id love to see some numbers like what kind of power u can get this thing up to with the amount of money ive put into my moter putting $600 ish into the tranny isnt that bad Especially if it can get me up to the 300whp range reliably. Ill go out on a limb here butttt... The cause of tranny failure is usually slipping or heat - a big tranny cooler can beat the heat - and in theory to a certain extent this valve body should fix the slipping due to being able to provide more pressure to the clutch plates - thus the tranny should be able to handle more - but hey my best knownledge is in the motor not the tranny lol

 

No no thendawg your right!!! Heat and slippage is a tranny worst enemy!!!! I already got a B&M Tranny cooler and now I have this to help it shift better! So I think im good. But I dont know right now how much more power this will allow me to put to the wheels.
Does anyone elso know??

 

is ur tc auto?
and great write up...i plan on upgrading through ipt in couple yrs after i get my turbo kit!

 

man i have some money set aside for other things - but if this is worth it - i may have a new valve body soon Wonder if i could find a doner auto valve body to send for mod so i dont have to have the car down any longer.

 

SO also - performance wise does the shifting feel alot better (more firm)?? One thing i learned - dont know about our cars but many autos actually engage two gears at once while shifting to make it smoother - but this causes wear and slipping when power is increased, the modified valve body is designed not to do this - which creates a harder but much more effecient shift that causes less wear on the clutches - once again this was in reference to many autos in general so i dont know about our tranny

 

Yes I am an auto

 

Thendawg as for just regular driving I can bearly even tell a difference shifting wise. But I can tell just regulary driving it seems like it really goes through the gears fast and the shifts are very smooth.
Now when I get on it WOT it revs up to about 6K and it seems like the time where the tranny upsifts and the motor revs down is deffently quicker. If that makes sense its kinda hard to explain. LOL

 

oh very nice....so do u think it will be ok to just get valve body upgrade and a torque converter upgrade to hold 270-300whp?
thanks

 

Not to sure but I think you could be close to thoes numbers. Your best bet is to call IPT and ask them. They are cool people and pretty stright foward they will tell you everythin you need to know.