dont buy F1 RACING CLUTCH! (turbo pics)
11-21-2010, 01:49 AM
#1
dont buy F1 RACING CLUTCH! (turbo pics)
well bought this clutch last year form gripforce.com these are also sold on ebay... this was the stage 3 clutch set i was happy with it for about 3 months it held up to my old turbo setup at 280wtq on ptunings dyno and then the motor blew so 6 months later i get the car running and well this is what end up happening after over a month of driving UN BOOSTED
i installed this current kit last week and was limping around to work on stock injectors and stock ecu staying outta boost was possed to get tuned this weekend but that aint happening now.. anyways i did some research and well we use the same cluthc disc as a MR2 turbo, and anyother toyota with a w58 trans...(is300,sc300,n/a supra) long story short i have a a 2jz-GE-T project and ill just borrow that clutch =]+
i installed this current kit last week and was limping around to work on stock injectors and stock ecu staying outta boost was possed to get tuned this weekend but that aint happening now.. anyways i did some research and well we use the same cluthc disc as a MR2 turbo, and anyother toyota with a w58 trans...(is300,sc300,n/a supra) long story short i have a a 2jz-GE-T project and ill just borrow that clutch =]+
11-21-2010, 02:35 AM
#2
thats a tiny radiator lol your ish didnt over heat in the summer?
i see a bunch of hondas rolling around with this type of radaitor but most of those r n/a. my turbo heats my engine bay soo much in the summer.
i see a bunch of hondas rolling around with this type of radaitor but most of those r n/a. my turbo heats my engine bay soo much in the summer.
11-21-2010, 02:41 AM
#3
speedy, the radiator is doing well it may seem tiny in size but its a 3 core so its 3 times as thick ad the oem so it cool just as or more efficiently... i will add that i have had only TWO overheating issues both were due to me letting air get in the system ( radiator wasnt the highest point in the system)
11-21-2010, 02:03 PM
#10
considering i ran a even worse looking ebay kit for a full year with nothing go wrong with it... i trust in it..as for the clutch EF THAT Lol
11-21-2010, 02:05 PM
#11
as for the subframe... it actually makes it longer to remove if u lower the subframe... i removed it the first 2 times i did my trans drop, i will add it makes it EASIER but i didnt wanna sit out sid efor an extra hour or 2 in the cold
11-21-2010, 05:21 PM
#13
Senior Member
Music City Scions
Scikotics
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 16,747
+1 I never remove the sub frame or loosen it. To much extra work for nothing when the trans can rotate down counter clockwise from the bay.
To OP....that's the same thing that happened to my Competition Clutch Stg 4. I think it's sprung disc clutches in general. This happened to me NOT when I had my turbo on it, but after I sold my turbo setup and been running N/A.
11-23-2010, 09:14 PM
#16
well ive been taking my time putting everything back in i attempted installing the trans yesterday and would not go in with the rear motor mount being in the way so i removed that and motor is resting on both side mounts, tomorrow i will lower the sub frame to do the rear mount and then ofcourse the front...
now i will add it can be done with the subframe in place but its a hassle and right now i dont have the patience
now i will add it can be done with the subframe in place but its a hassle and right now i dont have the patience
11-23-2010, 10:13 PM
#17
You have to take the rear mount off the tranny... than once the tranny is in place slip the front n rear mounts over their respective mounts on the car, attach to tranny, than put in the bolt to the mount on the subframe. Also this pretty much require a hoist to suspend the engine, at least thats how ive always done it.
