well bought this clutch last year form gripforce.com these are also sold on ebay... this was the stage 3 clutch set i was happy with it for about 3 months it held up to my old turbo setup at 280wtq on ptunings dyno and then the motor blew so 6 months later i get the car running and well this is what end up happening after over a month of driving UN BOOSTED

i installed this current kit last week and was limping around to work on stock injectors and stock ecu staying outta boost was possed to get tuned this weekend but that aint happening now.. anyways i did some research and well we use the same cluthc disc as a MR2 turbo, and anyother toyota with a w58 trans...(is300,sc300,n/a supra) long story short i have a a 2jz-GE-T project and ill just borrow that clutch =]+

 

thats a tiny radiator lol your ish didnt over heat in the summer?
i see a bunch of hondas rolling around with this type of radaitor but most of those r n/a. my turbo heats my engine bay soo much in the summer.

 

speedy, the radiator is doing well it may seem tiny in size but its a 3 core so its 3 times as thick ad the oem so it cool just as or more efficiently... i will add that i have had only TWO overheating issues both were due to me letting air get in the system ( radiator wasnt the highest point in the system)

 

Damn.... Ive had that clutch for about 6 months (*knocks on wood)

 

u got ur tranny out without removing the sub frame?

 

Ive never removed the subframe when pulling a tranny, and ive pulled em 6 or 7 times.

 

I lower the subframe, to me it seems quicker cause you get a little more space but it can be done without doing anything to the subframe.

 

Greg he jus proved ut theory

SENT FROM MY VIBRANT

 

for ease with the rear engine mount lower the subframe


Seems you are running most/all ebay components. You think they will last under stress differently than the clutch?

 

considering i ran a even worse looking ebay kit for a full year with nothing go wrong with it... i trust in it..as for the clutch EF THAT Lol

 

as for the subframe... it actually makes it longer to remove if u lower the subframe... i removed it the first 2 times i did my trans drop, i will add it makes it EASIER but i didnt wanna sit out sid efor an extra hour or 2 in the cold

 

i didnt mean remove the subframe i mean loosen the bolts so you gain an extra inch of clearance. thats only 10min at most.

 

+1 I never remove the sub frame or loosen it. To much extra work for nothing when the trans can rotate down counter clockwise from the bay.


To OP....that's the same thing that happened to my Competition Clutch Stg 4. I think it's sprung disc clutches in general. This happened to me NOT when I had my turbo on it, but after I sold my turbo setup and been running N/A.

 

yeah cc is pretty damn bad about it. if its not the TOB its the clutch disk that fails.

 

well just pulled the clutch masters stage 3 disc i had on my 2jz it has about 15k on it and well im fine with that str8 to the tc is goes

 

well ive been taking my time putting everything back in i attempted installing the trans yesterday and would not go in with the rear motor mount being in the way so i removed that and motor is resting on both side mounts, tomorrow i will lower the sub frame to do the rear mount and then ofcourse the front...

now i will add it can be done with the subframe in place but its a hassle and right now i dont have the patience

 

You have to take the rear mount off the tranny... than once the tranny is in place slip the front n rear mounts over their respective mounts on the car, attach to tranny, than put in the bolt to the mount on the subframe. Also this pretty much require a hoist to suspend the engine, at least thats how ive always done it.

 

lol putting this motor and trans in was easy it all slid right into their mounts hahaha but it was also coming down not up

 

there flywheels were nice, 7300 rpm on the b20 no issues. had it for 6k miles sold it and it has another 6k so 12k no issues.

 

hows that manifold holding up for you