Table of Contents
1. Introduction and Disclaimer
2. Revision History
3. E-manage – what it is and what it isn't
4. Purchasing an E-manage and E-manage options
5. Does it work on my car?
6. Installation problems and pitfalls
7. Tuning and Using the E-manage
8. Other Internet resources for the E-manage
9. The Profec E-01 boost controller and the E-manage
10. The Support Tool cable



1. Introduction and Disclaimer

Hello, and welcome to the Greddy E-manage FAQ. This document has been
created to assist new E-manage users in understanding this rather
powerful and complex fuel computer. This FAQ is a dynamic document and
should hopefully be undergoing many future revisions.

This FAQ is written and maintained by Dale Clark (rx7guru@clubrx.org).
If you have any comments, suggestions, or material to add to the FAQ,
please e-mail it to the above address and I'll be glad to add or revise
anything in the FAQ.

This document has no relationship or impact to Greddy Performance
Products USA or Trust Japan.

The E-manage, being a fuel computer, can give the user the power to
cause serious engine damage if used improperly. The author of this FAQ
and the various contributors assume no responsibility for your actions.
This is simply a resource to aid in the use of the E-manage – take it
as such.


2. Revision History

Version 1.0, January 9, 2003 – First draft.
Version 1.1, January 9, 2003 –
- Added info on rotary switch settings
- Added breakdown of jumper settings
- Added trick to use spare harness wires
- Added trick to use pressure sensor for TPS
- Changed text format to add line breaks
Version 1.2, January 9, 2003 -
- Added breakdown of all the rotary switch settings
- Added more web resources
Version 1.3, January 13, 2003 -
- Created new section, Tuning and Using the E-manage
- Added information on the Profec Remote Switch to E-01 section
- Cleaned up some wording in the Buying section (Mario)
- Added a lot more info in the E-01 section
Version 1.4, January 16, 2003
- Added Robyn's breakdown of the ignition switch settings
- Clarified the MAP sensor trick section
- Added contact info for clone cable
Version 1.5, February 14, 2003
- Added Robyn's detailed info on the internal jumpers
- Added workaround for the Confirm bug (Vinnie)
- Added info on Robyn's 7MGTE ignitor workaround
Version 1.6, May 29, 2003
- Added info on serial-USB adaptors
- Added warning about plastic caps on E-01 solenoid
Version 1.7, October 30, 2003
- Fixed info on JP1 setting in unit (had it backwards)
- Updated URL for Mohd's webpage
- Added switch setting for Honda S2000
- Added info on firmware 1.36
- Added new URL (OCN Japanese translate)
Version 1.8, December 18, 2003
- Put info on finding which JP1 setting to use
- Added undocumented switch settings

3. E-manage – what it is and what it isn't

The Greddy E-manage is a simple fuel computer designed for Japanese
automobiles. The intended purpose is to allow the user to fine-tune
the fuel curve of the vehicle to take advantage of various
modifications to the car.

There are many additional options for the E-manage, allowing the user
to put together a system that suits their needs.

In its most basic form, the E-manage alters the primary airflow input
to the car's ECU. By increasing or decreasing this signal, the ECU
will alter the amount of fuel going into the engine.

While the E-manage is very powerful and flexible, a full stand-alone
ECU is even more powerful. A stand-alone ECU replaces the entire fuel
injection system with one that's designed to be easily programmable by
a laptop computer. This gives the ultimate in flexibilty, but with a
steep learning curve and a LOT of work required to tune in the fuel map
properly. It's hard to say at what point it's wiser to go with a
stand-alone than a piggyback computer (ie the E-manage) – it really
depends on how good the car's ECU is to begin with, the amount of
modifications, etc. If nothing else, the E-manage makes for a great
stepping stone before going to a full stand-alone – you can learn to
tune the car while having the factory fuel map to fall back on.


4. Purchasing an E-manage and E-manage options

There are a number of components to the E-manage system. Let's break
each one down.

E-manage main unit – the main brain of the whole deal. List price is
$379, street price is closer to $300. The unit by itself is VERY basic
– there are 5 ***** you can adjust on the front of the unit to do a
VERY rough fuel map with. IMHO, the computer by itself isn't much, the
Support Tool is what makes it shine.

E-manage Support Tool – Now we're getting somewhere. Included in the
kit is a serial to USB cable and a CD with the Support Tool software.
The cable is proprietary, and not a standard cable. The software
unlocks the full potential of the E-manage – 16x16 fuel maps, changing
airflow meters, using the other optional harnesses, etc. You really
need to have the Support Tool for the E-manage to be of any value. The
tool retails for $129, with a street price of around $110.

Optional Injection Harness – This splices into the stock fuel injectors
for control and logging. With this harness, you can directly add
pulsewidth to the stock injectors and datalog their activity. You can
also directly control 2 additional injectors as well. This retails for
$38.50.

NOTE: You can buy JUST the ignition harness and use the extra wires
for the injector harness. The ignition harness comes with 12 wires and
an extra connector to plug into the E-manage. Most cars don't use all
the wires – 4 cylinder and rotary cars especially. Look at the E-
manage manual, find your car, and find out how many wires you need for
igntion control and for injector control. Make sure to add 2 wires to
the total if you plan to use additional injectors. If the total is
less than 12, buy just the ignition harness and add the extra wires to
the main E-manage plug for your injector harness. The injector harness
is just some wires with ends crimped on them that you add to the main
E-manage plug.

Optional Ignition Harness – This splices into the car's timing input,
from a crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, or the like. With this
you can alter the car's ignition timing. Retails for $41.80.

Greddy Pressure Sensor – This is a 3-bar air pressure sensor add-on.
With it, you can tune your fuel maps with this sensor's output as the
basis for tuning instead of the car's airflow signal input. This is
primarily used when you've overrun the capacity of the stock airflow
meter. Whether or not you need this is a tough question – it's really
best to run the car without it first and see if you're maxing out the
stock airflow meter signal before investing in the pressure sensor.
Retail price of the sensor is $120, with a street price closer to $100.
NOTE – the peak/hold/warning Greddy boost gauge uses the SAME sensor,
so you can share that sensor's output with the E-manage.

Pressure Sensor Harness – it's simply the wiring harness to plug the
sensor into the E-manage. If you're using the boost gauge's sensor,
you can buy just this harness and tap it into the boost gauge's
harness. Retail is $35.
The best setup to start with is the main E-manage computer and the
Support Tool. Next would be the injector harness, then the ignition
harness, then the pressure sensor. If you need control over ignition
timing as a priority, you might want to look into the ignition harness
first over the injection harness, or do the trick below to use parts of
the ignition harness as the injection harness. Regardless, the
pressure sensor is probably lowest on the priority chart - it's moreso
something you get when you know you're overrunning the stock airflow
measuring device. It might be more of a priority if you have a non-
turbo car with a turbo kit and the stock pressure sensor for the car
doesn't read boost pressure. Again, it really comes down to what
you've done to the car, what you're planning to do, and what you want
from the E-manage.

The E-manage really works well with larger injectors, and larger
injectors are highly recommended. Greddy advertises that you can
increase injector size 150% - this is not really a limitation of the E-
manage, but of the engine itself. Larger injectors will squirt more
fuel at their smallest pulsewidth, and too large injectors will cause
idling and running problems. But, additional injectors can be added as
well to supplement the stock injectors.

The closest competition to the E-manage is the Apexi Super-AFC. The
Super-AFC is a very nice and powerful unit, and they both have their
advantages and disadvantages. The E-manage is far more capable, but
does require a laptop (or the E-01 boost controller) to program. The
Super-AFC is simpler, but is self-contained – you program it right on
the unit's display. The Super-AFC doesn't handle larger injectors as
easily as the E-manage, doesn't control additional injectors, doesn't
do ignition timing, and doesn't have datalogging (though it does do
some MAP tracing on the screen, but they can't be saved and are tricky
to interpret). It's still a great computer, though. The E-manage is
really the next step up.

When the E-manage came out, there was a big confusion about the Support
Tool – supposedly you could only get it from an authorized Greddy
dealer when they install and tune the E-manage for you. This has
proven not to be the case. You still can't easily get the E-manage
from many on-line vendors, but it is available.

I recommend purchasing the E-manage and various accessories from Mohd –
he's a frequent contributor to the list and manages the Supra E-manage
list. The web page is mohdparts.com, and he really
has the best prices anywhere. You might also want to talk to your
local import performance shop – most times they can get the Support
Tool and everything and charge a fair price.


5. Does it work on my car?

Probably. The E-manage is universal enough that it works on darn near
everything, even cars that aren't listed as officially being supported.
If it's a Japanese car, it will most likely work. A domestic or
European car is another story – most likely the airflow signal altering
will work just fine, but ignition might be tricky. If you want to use
it on an un-listed car, be prepared to do some head scratching and
careful studying of the shop manual to be sure.

If your car is listed in the Super-AFC manual, it will probably work on
the E-manage. You can use the Super-AFC manual as kind of a "cheat
sheet" to find other applications.

Check Loading... for Greddy's application list.
Go to http://www.apexi-usa.com and download the Super-AFC manual to see
all the applications and settings for the Super-AFC to see if there's a
crossover to the E-manage. NOTE: Apexi just posted the Super-AFC II
manual, and it has even more applications in it.

Here's a list of all the rotary switch settings compiled from the
Japanese and US manuals. There are 3 rotary switches hidden under the
faceplate of the unit that you dial to set up the type of car. It uses
this information to figure out how to interpret the airflow meter
signal and the ignition signal for that car.

First digit - Ignition signal type
Sets the expected input for the RPM signal. Also sets up how the
ignition signal setting will work.

1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl
2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl
3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl
4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl
5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl
(only seems to be on the Toyota 1G-GTE inline 6)
6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl
7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl
8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl
A - RX-7 13B-REW
B - RX-7 13B or 13BT
C - RX-7 20B-REW

Examples:

1. If you set 2 on a engine with 2 coils, only one
ignition will get spark because #2 thinks you have
only one coil.

2. Say you have the listed engine 4AGE/MAP/Disty which
uses settings 2-4-0 and you have a 4AGZE/MAP/Disty,
you can try settings 3-4-0. If the setup doesn't
recognize an engine designation that means it won't
work. If it detects the same 4AGE but stumbles, it
means that it is calculating the spark timing wrongly
based on one coil and is out of phase. This will cause
extra retarded timing and possibly backfire. You got
to find an alternative rotary switch setting from
another engine - in this case the Daihatsu L502 which
will work, RSS 3-C-2. It runs 2 coil and MAP sensor.

3. The E-manage is not universal. You cannot create
your own rotary switch combination. It is factory
preset with a range of cars.

Second and Third digit - airflow meter type. Notice there are a LOT of
potential settings that aren't listed - hmm.... The first 2 numbers
are the rotary switch settings, and the second is the airflow type
designation. For example, NS_HW-1 is Nissan Hotwire Type 1. These
codes are pulled straight from the E-manage manual. NOTE: Some of
these are undocumented settings that may only apply to the latest
(v.1.36) of the firmware. They are there and work, but some of the
applications are unknown.

Nissan Hotwire
00 NS_HW-1
01 NS_HW-2
02 NS_HW-3
03 NS_HW-4
04 NS_HW-5
05 NS_HW-6
06 NS_HW-7
07 NS_HW-8
08 NS_HW-9
09 NS_HW-10
0A NS_HW-11

Toyota Hotwire
20 TY_HW-1 (undocumented)
21 TY_HW-2
22 TY_HW-3
23 TY_HW-4
24 TY_HW-5
25 TY_HW-6

Toyota Pressure
40 TY_PR-1
41 TY_PR-2
42 TY_PR-3

Toyota Flap
47 TY_FL-1
48 TY_FL-2
49 TY_FL-3
4A TY_FL-4

Subaru Hotwire
60 SB_HW-1
61 SB-HW-2
62 SB-HW-3
63 SB-HW-4

Mitsubishi Karmann
83 MT_KR-1
84 MT_KR-2

Honda Pressure
8A HN_PR-1
8B HN_PR-2
8C - new settings for Honda S2000
8D HN_PR-4 Undocumented for RSX
8E Undocumented working setting

Mazda Hotwire
A0 MZ_HW-1
A1 MZ_HW-2

Mazda Pressure
A6 MZ_PR-1

Mazda Flap
A9 MZ-FL-1 Undocumented
AA MZ_FL-2
AB MZ_FL-3
AC MZ_FL-4
AD MZ_FL-5

Suzuki/Daihatsu Pressure
C0 SD_PR-1
C1 SD_PR-2
C2 SD_PR-3

There are a number of jumpers inside the E-manage, most of which are
obvious to set if you have an application listed in the manual. Here's
a breakdown of the jumpers and what their purpose is.

Jumper settings inside the E-manage:

JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select
1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground
2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail
* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to ground
* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's
setting)
Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting
Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3.

JP2 Ignition output select
1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V
2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V
* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output
* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude
of the original signal

JP3 airflow/VTEC output select
1-2 2nd airflow meter
2-3 VTEC
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non-
VTEC applications

JP4 airflow/VTEC input select
1-2 VTEC
2-3 2nd airflow meter
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non-
VTEC applications
* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is
required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.

JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers
Jumper off - Disabled
1-2 - Enabled
* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-
manage

JP7 VTEC
1-2 Non-VTEC
Jumper off - VTEC
* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)

There have been a number of concerns with using the ignition harness on
7MGTE powered Toyota Supras (MkIII, late '80s/early 90s). The Supra
uses a "weird" ignition coil that's negatively switched that the E-
manage doesn't like, and the car won't run or will run poorly with the
ignition harness hooked up. Robyn figured out a workaround circuit to
invert the signal so the E-manage can correctly deal with it. Download
schematics/info here:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...%20docs/7mgteI
gnitor.zip


6. Installation problems and pitfalls

The biggest trick to installing any type of electronic device in your
car is make SURE you have good quality electrical connections.
Wrapping two wires together and putting some electrical tape around it
won't cut it. You need to crimp, solder, or crimp and solder ALL
connections.

Take your time with the installation – if you rush or hurry, you will
run into problems. Double-check all the connections in the manual.

The grey wire is usually a source of mystery – it's purpose is buried
in the Support Tool manual. That's the wire for the TPS – hook it up
to your car's TPS and you're golden.

Make sure, especially if you have an older car, that you have good
grounds and connections throughout your car's electrical system. Flaky
grounds and poor voltage can cause all kinds of weird problems that can
be compounded by aftermarket electronics like the E-manage.

The E-manage is NOT a sealed ECU, so it really does need to be mounted
inside the car. Trunk or the like would probably be OK, just make sure
it has some measure of air space around it for ventilation. Don't
mount it outside the car or in the engine bay!

If you are experiencing a no-start problem or have problems with the
ignition not working right, change jumper JP2 to position 2-3. This
helps in many circumstances. There is also updated firmware for the E-
manage available at Loading... - this is also
supposed to help with some ignition problems. Supposedly the latest
version (1.36) fixes problems with ignitors overheating and numerous
other things - well worth upgrading.

If you have an older car with a narrow range throttle position sensor
(old RX-7's, some Toyotas, etc.), there are a few tricks. Easiest is
to get a boost sensor of some kind and tap into that signal – most
boost sensors are 0-5v outputs, just like a TPS. With the boost
sensor, you dial in your airflow map with boost on the vertical axis
instead of throttle position. Works quite well!

There is a small bug in the Support Tool software. Here's info and a
workaround:

This procedure is for those who have problems using the Support Tool on
the laptop. There are scenarios where
if you use the PARAMETER SETTINGS and "Confirm" your changes, it will
cause your car to not run/idle properly
and not all parameters are saved to the E-Manage unit. This seems to
exist for Support Tool 1.11 and previous.

Questions, feel free to email vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com


1) Turn your car to ON
2) Go to the FILES section of the yahoo group and download the latest
US
language and the latest Main unit operating system.
3) Bring up your support tool to ONLINE
4) Go to COMMUNICATION and click on MAIN UNIT UPDATE
5) When it prompts you to TURN OFF MAIN UNIT, turn your key to OFF
position.
6) Click OK
7) Turn ignition to ON
Bring up your support tool to ONLINE.
9) Go to SETTINGS and click on PARAMETER SETTINGS
10) Make all your changes and select relevant maps. If you do not have
the additional harnesses, check the "Air Flow Adjustment Map". Also set
your Throttle Setting.
11) Click on CONFIRM. It will pop up asking you to turn off ignition
once. Go ahead and turn ignition to OFF. Click OK.
12) Turn ignition to ON. Reconnect support tool so it is ONLINE.
13) Go to COMMUNICATION and then click on EXPORT DATA.
14) Once that is done, click on CONFIRM for any pop ups you get. Then
turn the ignition to OFF.
15) Turn the ignition to ON and proceed to turn the car ON.


From this point on, NEVER reconfigure the PARAMETER SETTINGS or export
to main unit!!! This is what screws things up.

Any change you make on your air-flow map are automatically updated with
the main unit thus there is no need to "export".

Every time you start up your support tool and want to modify the maps
on the main unit, just IMPORT from the main unit and proceed to modify
it.
But again, never mess around with the PARAMETER SETTINGS or EXPORT to
main unit unless you go through the steps above again.

There have been some questions about using a USB-serial adapter on a
laptop that doesn't have serial ports to hook up the Greddy support
tool cable. The Belkin FSU-109 adapter has worked for some people, but
it didn't for one person - for them, the IOGear GUC232A worked
perfectly. Just make sure whatever adapter you get can be returned to
the store in case it doesn't work.



7. Tuning and Using the E-manage

One big source of confusion on the E-manage is its ability to let you
use different airflow meters. While this can be done, there are some
limitations and rules to play by.

First off, you can only change an airflow meter for another meter of
similar type. For example, if you have a hotwire airflow meter, you
can use ANY hotwire airflow meter, even if it's from another
manufacturer. The software/firmware only has Japanese airflow meters
listed - US AFM's could be used in theory, but you'd have to find its
Japanese equivalent. Anyhow, if you have a flap-type airflow meter,
you can only use another flap-type; if you have a Karmann, you can only
use another Karmann.

This option might be helpful for Subaru owners who have had problems
with less-than-durable airflow meters - might be able to swap to a
Nissan unit, or even another Subaru unit that's hardier. It's also an
easy way to upgrade - Nissan has 80 and 90mm airflow meters!

Second, you can't get rid of the airflow meter and use a MAP sensor.
Even if you add the optional Greddy pressure sensor, you must still
have an airflow meter in the system. The Greddy pressure sensor simply
adds another basis for your fuel maps in the E-manage - you can use it
to tune your fuel maps instead of the input from the airflow meter
(very useful if your airflow meter has run out of range), but that's
all internal to the E-manage.


8. Other Internet resources for the E-manage

The Yahoo! Groups mailing lists are the best places to start –

The big universal E-manage list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage
This page also has numerous files in the Files section, an install
database, and more.

The Supra MKIV specific E-manage list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/e-manage

Subaru E-manage list
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaru_e-manage

Mohd's E-manage site with sales, copies of the manuals, etc.
Loading...

Greddy USA's page
GReddy

Greddy (Trust) Japan's page
http://www.trust-power.com

Japanese E-manage FAQ
http://kkano.hp.infoseek.co.jp/e-manage/

Another Japanese E-manage site
http://www.site-free.com/e-manage/

Translate Japanese pages to English
http://world.altavista.com
http://www.ocn.ne.jp/translation/ - I like this one the best. The page
is in Japanese - paste in the URL, pick the second radio button, then
press the button beneath that.

Toyota engine codes explained
http://www.toymods.org.au/engine_codes.html

List of Nissan engine and chassis codes
http://www.freshalloy.com/cars/nissan/super_matrix.html

E-manage install on a Ford
http://home.earthlink.net/~twilson1726/greddy.htm

E-manage install on a MKIV Supra
emanage 2gz-gte install ? MKIV.com

E-manage install on an SW20 MR2
http://www.wraithmr2.com/einstall.htm


9. The Profec E-01 boost controller and the E-manage

Greddy JUST released the new Profec E-01 boost controller to the US
market. Information is still light on the unit, but it does allow you
to hook the E-manage directly to it and fully tune and control the E-
manage. You don't have to have the Support Tool to use the E-01 to
tune it – just buy a regular A-B USB cable from a computer store and
you're good to go.

Not only is the E-01 a boost controller, it's also a central data and
information system. The E-01 will record data, monitor information on
the screen, give you peak/hold/warning features for any data streams
it's monitoring...it really complements the E-manage well. Even if you
don't intend to program the E-manage with it, it's really a handy
tuning aid as a laptop is rather cumbersome to keep in the car and
watching at all times!

The E-01 comes with the 1.29 firmware and updates the E-manage the
first time it's plugged in. This updates the E-manage to work with the
E-01, and should also include the ignition fixes in the 1.29 update.

The E-01 can fully control and program the E-manage. With the E-01,
you can record and monitor the E-manage's inputs/outputs, tune the
various maps, set up the unit, etc. You can save up to 3 maps in the
E-01's memory card and rather easily switch between them. In theory,
you can have multiple memory cards and swap in different maps.

The E-01 seems like a pretty good way to tune the E-manage, but initial
tuning should probably be done with a laptop. The E-01 is really
better suited for doing "tweaking" to your fuel maps instead of heavy
number-crunching tuning. Part of this is just the limitation of the
display, lack of an Undo function, etc.

The E-01 is also supposed to share its boost sensor with the E-manage -
there is an optional cable that goes from the E-01's COM port to the
Boost Sensor port on the E-manage. The E-01 can also datalog input
from Greddy peak/hold/warning gauges, albeit only one can be connected
at a time.

There is an option for the E-01 and the original Profec A and B boost
controllers call the Remote Switching Option. This is a small wireless
steering wheel remote with a button, a small receiver, and a cord to
plug it into the boost controller. The cord that plugs into the boost
controller looks EXACTLY like a stereo mini-plug. In theory, a remote
switch could be made - I have a feeling the circuit is relatively
simple. The function of the switch is to change from high to low boost
setting and back. It's a little pricey at $100 or so, making a DIY
unit very interesting indeed.

I will begin work on a separate E-01 FAQ - it's a complicated enough
unit in and of itself to warrant it's own document.

One word of caution - the E-01's boost solenoid ships with small
plastic caps over all the holes in the solenoid. These must ALL be
removed before use - leaving the unused port capped will result in
overboosting! Remove them all, install the appropriate hose nipples,
and you're good to go.


10. The Support Tool cable

This cable is a special cable of some kind – it doesn't seem to have
any advanced logic, but it is weird and special enough that you can't
just get one at a computer store. It plugs into your computer via the
serial port and into the E-manage with a USB plug.

you can tune your fuel maps with this sensor's output as the
basis for tuning instead of the car's airflow signal input.