ok so finally we get the timing set properly and everything is hooked up right and sealed .... my car will start and die right out like 4-5 seconds after i start it

it also revs to 3200 rpms before it shuts itself off

any ideas why it would do that?

 

wow, sounds like it could be just about anything at this point. Throtle, computer, Tuning, intake, coilpacks, crank, belts, the list I could come up could go on and on... I am assuming you have a turbo application in this situation? correct? you need to start from square one.

it's one of 4 issues.
1) spark
2) fuel
3) Air
4) mechanical
start by checking each aspect of the system. my bet it is somthing to do with your computer. but with such limited information I would be hard pressed to tell you exactly is wrong with your car.

Comp.

 

we do not feel its mechanical because it was mechanical before ...and we fixed what was wrong on that part ... and then we found no leaks for air ...so that takes that one out

its either
spark
fuel
computer

were going to check the fuel system tomorrow and the spark ... so when those come off the list ...i guess im going to toyota

 

your turboed right?

 

What engine management system do you have, and what size injectors?

 

Id be carful about goin to toyota, cuz if ur turboed and ur car is screwin up they may turn u away and void ur warranty, they can blame the problem on the turbo and sahy bye bye. Id check with a reputible mechanic 1st before goin to toyota. Or u could always trace all ur steps from install and see if u missed anything or might had made any mistakes.

 

What turbo kit do you have? or is it custom?

 

custom built ...mainly zpis product

theres my first problem I know haha not really

i think we ____ed the computer up cause my friend was dumb enough to swap the coils around and left the two out and one arched on the header and caused a huge spark but no fuses blew ....

my friends dad down the street who is like a 40 year mechanic has me putting the fuel rail back on again and were going to jump the fuel pump fuse and see what happens because he thinks the computer is for some stupid reason telling the fuel pump to turn off once the motor is cranked over

but if you have any ideas let me know cause im really not trying to fork out the money for it and the stealership said they would take a look at it for 200 bucks and tell me what needs to be done but im not looking to get shafted on like a 2000 dollar quote on something like replacing a fuse and them saying my flux capacitor is bad ...ya know?




the timing was 180 out before and we got her to run solid on 1 cylinder ....would stay running but now she cranks over and thats about as far as we get she revs straight to 3200rpms and shuts down

 

why does everybody and their uncle have a 40 year mechanic down the street?


anyways, what computer do you have?

what do you have? you have to tell us

 

so it cranks, then RPMs jump to 3200 and dies?

 

16g turbo
greddy emanage ultimate


its not the Emanage or the MAF sensor or the turbokit in anyway because if i pull the throttle body charge pipe or hook up the stock ECU by itself she does the same thing

 

did u check all the piping?? any air that gets sucked in between the MAF sensor and the engine (if it is enough) will cause the ecu to shut down.

 

it sounds like the ecu is raising RPM's to compensate for extra air

air leak is what it sounds like.

 

everything is hooked up right though ...and there is no leaks in any of the piping ...so why would it do that?....and it doesnt run long enough for me to see if im hitting boost ... the turbo does spool up though from the start up

and it doesnt make sense anyway ...because with the charge pipe pulled from the intake manifold ... she revs to 3200 rpms and dies out ... so it cant really be a vacuum leak

 

t sounds like one..it actually sounds like a big one are you pulling charge pipe from intake manifold and not putting anything there?

 

im just saying that even with or without the maf sensor and the turbo hooked up ... the car will still rev to 3200 rpms and shut off so it cant be a vacuum leak unless therees like a 6 foot hole in the block? lol

 

so you took the whole setup off?

i don't know, that's exactly what my car did when i had a huge vac leak.

 

now thinking about it on the ride home in my POS

im going to get the injector spacers replaced they are the plastic pieces on the end because that will suck more air into the cylinders ...hence high rev until it dies out .... someone let me know if im wrong on that theory .... also im going to unplug 3 of the 4 coils and try starting it up to see if she free revs to 3200 and dies....because i had it idling on 1 cylinder before but thats because it was starving for air ...so it ran on one


its coming down to some stupid ____ i tell ya

 

What injectors you running?

 

stock ones