As far as I can tell the BPV is doing exactly what it should, but the constant opening and closing of the bpv at idle drives me nuts, probably 3-5 times per second.

This happened after I installed a boost gauge and had the battery disconnected for 12 hours. I tapped the vac line between the throttle body and the existing tap for the bpv, and my readings seem to be good. This is an electronic gauge, so I didn't add 10 feet of vac line or anything. I've now driven about 90 miles since the gauge install, and it hasn't gone away yet, I had read somewhere that this could be due to resetting the ecu.

After a little bit of quick investigation, it's clear to see that the pulsing in the vac line (and therefore the bpv) is coming a pulsing of the VSV. I'm not entirely sure what that even stands for, but I think it's vacuum sensor valve. Just taking a shot. I don't know what the VSV does, or what it's even connected to, I can't find any diagrams of the vacuum system.

Please, PLEASE help me out of you can. This is mostly annoying, but I'm also concerned that I could somehow be damaging the engine.

 

By the way, this is the bosch 110, not stock. Still not the best BPV, but not the pos that TRD spec'd.

 

Alright... here's an update for anyone that's interested.

The only purpose of the evap system is to capture the gas fumes from the tank and then open the VSV to allow the fumes into the intake when the pressure in the evap canister reaches a certain level. So, it's logical that the ECU would only open the VSV when under vacuum conditions, but how does it know? The ECU doesn't have a pressure reference as far as I know.

I disconnected the VSV and left it in place, and that seems to have fixed the chattering of the bpv, and the idle is smoother than before. But that basically disables the whole evap system.

I hope someone can give me some help, I would rather not talk to TRD about this.

 

I had a similar issue, had a small leak on a T fitting. It fixed it once I fixed the small leak.

 

The vsv is the last thing attached to the vacuum/boost reference in my setup. If I pinch off the vacuum line right before the vsv, everything works out great.
I've heard that I should be reading infinite resistance between both wires of the vsv clip to ground. I'm reading 543 ohms from the yellow wire to ground. Does this mean anything to anyone?
I would think I'd be having much bigger problems if I had a wiring issues with that particular wire, because it also goes to a host of other important things like the a/f sensor.

 

i have the same issue and it is driving me crazy. is there somewhere else we can tap the bpv vacuum line to?

 

I really don't think moving the tap point will change anything- it'll all still be connected.
I was told to bring it in if I throw a CEL, so apparently proactive maintenance is a bad idea. I found that if I leave everything connected to the vacuum as is and disconnect the VSV wiring harness, it will not throw a CEL. If I instead leave the wiring harness connected and totally disconnect the VSV from the vacuum line, it throws a CEL pretty quick.
I'll probably try and talk to one of the service or parts people that I know and see if I can swap VSV's and see if that fixes the problem. I'm still under warranty, so if that fixes the problem I'm covered, but if it doesn't fix the problem i'll just give it back.