troy2003

ok, ill include all i can....in the past 2 months my car has started randomly snapping to 10.0/ rich afr and bogging down. i took a trip and my af.r stays good at cruising speeds, when i get on it at 1/2, 3/4 or wot it snaps rich and bogs, and while cruising it again is good but everyonce in a while goes rich for a sec and goes back, and goes lean for a sec and goes back slightly bogging all this while. i swapped new plugs for ngk iridium 1 step colder, same plugs as before, but andrew at ptuning told me to run a .022-.024 gap for 10 psi 350 horsepower. the car was tuned well a year ago, never any problems with the tune.....now this.....any info you guys need to help, please please ask....i was thinking maybe maf since im on new plugs, same brand and same 1 step colder like before.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

its either maf or the front o2

easy check, go unplug your o2 and drive if car drives pretty decent then it was the o2(warning will run rich in high rpm)

if car still runs poopy after unplugging then its the maf


my money is on the maf tho cuz mine was doing the same till i cleaned mine but be prepared to replace yours tho as they do go bad

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

my car has been doin the same thing. i think mine is due to the changes in temps. ive noticed anything under 60-65 degrees out, the car will run more on the rich side and will hit 10.0 afr under partial throttle until i hit boost. i dont think ur maf or o2 sensor is bad. mine is doin the same exact thing and i just replaced my primary a/f sensor about 2 mons ago.

browniemxn

What Pearl said ^^^^ Just replaced mine after only 4k of being boosted made a world of difference. I also noticed that it would lean out occasionally in partial boost. Now, the AFr is solid. Accidently pushed enter on the post. Anyway, after the changeover my afr still jumps when the weather changes. Sometimes it will change as the day warms up.

Syldrin

iTrader: (1)

did you check to see if anything's come loose?

troy2003

it does it when i hit boost...and holds on 10.0 until i feather the throttle...im going to get the codes read tommorrow, i know im already throwing a rich code, but it has to stay because drivability tweaks were made to the tune when the light was on...but im hoping im popping another code that will help point me in the right direction.

troy2003

i did not, i know my downpipe, and s pipe are all secure, ill check my maf, 02 sensor, bov.

Syldrin

iTrader: (1)

is idle consistant? i forgot to ask that. i'd definatley do a boost leak test. don't forget vac lines too.

troy2003

idle is perfect, where it was when i got the kit refabricated...14.5-14.8 at idle.

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

chances are ur not gonna be throwin any other codes other than the p0172 rich code. if the car was n/a, id say def an a/f sensor or maf. just outta curiosity, do u live somewhere where the climate changes frequently? unfortunately this is something ur gonna be chasing for a while. my cel would occasionally pop on from time to time in the summer after i got it tuned and dialed in. fuel trims are constantly gonna change if ur climate does. just par for the course.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

my car recently was doing the whole 10.0 afr cruising after boost and or in high rpms with more that 25%throttle in 5th this ended up being the maf, but if not leaks and everything is connected its either maf or o2.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

pearl his 10.0 afr in cruising until he feathers is def not climate related its sensor oriented

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

anything is possible... i wouldnt say its def not climate related. climate does play a factor as well. it may not be the case 100% in his case. the easiest way is to swap snsrs w known good sensors and see if it changes.

troy2003

its 10.0 after 1/2 3/4 or wot....it only goes 10.o while cruising for a split second every 5 min or so....but snaps right back where it should be, and goes lean for a sec every 5 min an goes right back anb bogs for a millisecond....but again that coupled with major 10.0 rich when i get into throttle......and no pearl im in southern va....so temp does not change drastically, stays pretty steady.

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

hmmm...how long has it been since uve been tuned? idk if maybe the ecu is startin to try and take over and is fighting with the fic...im still tryin to figure this stuff out myself..these damn cars are a real pita. im considering goin to a map sensor when i do my build.

troy2003

Been about a year bro....and I'm armed with this new info...I'm throwing 4 codes...p0172 bank 1 system 2 rich (which I knew), p0101 maf, p0335 crankshaft position sensor malfunction and p2196 o2 sensor stuck in rich

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

IMO it sounds like the AFR sensor is the main problem. The P0101 is very common and can be tuned out with the FIC MAF map. The P0335 is usually caused by the FIC.

The only time I ever got a P2196 was when my AFR sensor was bad. Replacing it solved the rich AFR issues. IIRC I found a new Denso sensor on Amazon for $120 with 2 day shipping. Good luck.

troy2003

Cool, yea I'm planning to grab some maf cleaner today, checking all couplers, piping, boost and vacuum and checking everything else for security...if this doesn't help ill be ordering the o2 sensor tonight, I'm hoping 1 of the two will be the fix...

PeArLwHiTe07tC

iTrader: (2)

good luck w it man...let us know what u find...

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, the 101 is commonly caused by a CAI or boost setup. A bad MAF is more likely to throw a 102 or 103. Good luck.