I just installed the supercharger and it works fine. Xsept it keeps stolling after I go for a run. But when. I start it up it doesn't stall just has low idle. It's in 500

I got a blow off valve and I checked for leaks

I also got an 05 ecu that has a Toyota sticker that says 2azsc m/t should I get it reflashed it supposed to be flashed already I got it off some one here but ya never know. Lol.

I went for a couple of runs and goes good xsept. For when I take it off gear it stalls

I also have no codes


Any one know what it can be??






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Useful thread:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=112896

What type of blow off valve? What year tC?

 

if you just installed the supercharger and had your battery disconnected, the ECU was reset.

Just drive around for a while, doing plenty of stop and go, allow the ECU to relearn the idle.

 

I got the hks ssqv3. And the car is a 2006 running an 05 ecu

And it hasn't stalled. Today but it's still in the 500 and jump down and feels like it wants to stall.









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Are you like accelerating hard and then dropping into neutral right after letting off the gas?

 

Yea when I first tried it out last night

But now not really did it twice I'm driving normal it's not stalling no more but feels like it wants to... stays at the 500 and low rpms.


This is my set up don't mind the header it's stock until I get the dezod one.

I'll make a video when I get a chance if that will help.




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concerning the header, you should really put the heatsheild back on or heatwrap it asap, the life expectancy of those supercharger shafts are greatly reduced by such heat.

As far as the stalling problem, you really shouldnt be coasting in neutral anyway but at any rate the issue is obviously cased by running a non stock part (HKS SSQV) on a tune that is made for the stock TRD set up. When the BOV activates it releases a volume of air that the engine was expecting to get. If you stayed in gear, momentum will keep it running but jumping out of gear will cause it to struggle to stay turning. It sorta comes down to just not needlessly coating in neutral

The larger problem is that after upshifts, you're engine is going to run super rich for a moment and you'll loose power untill the AFRs can lean out a bit. Do you have and AFR gauge?

You can keep running the HKS BOV if you want but if you dont like these issues you should probably swap it back out. If you plan on modifying your SC set up even further, ie intake, pully, headers etc.. you're really going to need a tune to have a safe and reliable car. This would likely involve ditching your flashed ECU for a stock one and then getting tuned on an AEM FI/C or more ideally the Dezod APR X1.

A proper tune will compensate for your power adders to keep your AFRs where they need to be resulting in not only reliability but also true power gain. Furthermore a custom tune would be able to compensate for any aftermarket blow off valve you want to run, preventing the issues that started this thread in the first place.

hope this was helpful, I really recommend giving Dezod a call

 

Thanks for the info I'm a noob lol._

I was thinking of getting the aem. But I'll check out dezods.

_It's not stalling no more. Even if I do go in neutral _the only problem _I still have is it's on 500 rpms at idle and feels like it wants to stall but doesn't and never goes higher then 500 .. unless it's a cold start. Is that normal for the supercharger cause it never did that stock.


How can I tell if I'm running lean And running rich does it feel diff..does it cause a back fire.... I havnt installed any gauges yet


And The shaft is from gompka so it's been rebuilt. i dont got the heat shield i bought this kit used and was missing some parts I'm going to be getting the dezod catted header I got a colder thermostat 61 but I don't know if that helps cool it down a bit

can it be the spark plugs i got ngk Bkr7e and gapped them to what it said on the installation

Thanks.



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you should really just read that thread thatt tCb00b posted, is very informative.

You cant determine instantaneous AFRs without a gauge. If you're gonna be doing more custom things pick up an AEM Uego.

Are the spark plugs you're running NGK BKR7E-11 or BKR7EIX-11? If theres no IX, then they are copper plugs and will definitely be causing you problems. If you want to run copper you would once again need a tune for copper. The TRD tune is for iridium plugs which the BKR7EIX-11 are. If you are running copper plugs by accident, order these asap
http://www.dezod.com/pd_ngk_iridium_bkr7eix11.cfm

Props on the Gompka shaft, however that should only be even more motivation to take proper precautions about heat. While the Gompka shaft is more reliable, it is not fully immune to heat and exposing it to the heat coming off your manifold like that is still going to make your even more expensive shaft fail prematurely.

If you dont want to spend money on heat wrap for your stock headers when your about to replace em, then thats your call, but you better get the Dezod header real quick and it better be heat wrapped when it goes in.

Do the colder thermostat if you want... there are arguments out there that it makes a positive difference but there are also plenty of arguments that running a colder thermostat actually decreases performance.

 

Dezod said to not heat wrap their header.....

 

Oh shoot you're right, I just checked the group buy thread for the header and indeed Dezod advises against heat wrapping a stainless steel header. Thanks for correcting me!

Scion86, even though stainless steel retains heat very well, I would still talk to Dezod about heat suppression when you order the header, because even though overall underhood temps might not be an option, the proximity of the header to the supercharger shaft still makes me very nervous

 

I'm going to try and get that header ASAP I know what u mean about the heat I went to a scion dealer after work to see if the ecu was flashed and it's about 30 min away just got home looked in the Hood and was deff hot as hell

Now that I went to scion and checked the ecu now my rpm is good still here and there it trys to go down but not like be4

but I did notice The temp. Went pretty high like it did when it was stock. Since I installed a colder thermostat the temp was always on half now its close to the 3rd line is that any good. And it was since they checked my car I'll have to see it tomorrow if it does again

I didn't get to install the gauges yet but I have torque for android and a obd2 Bluetooth and this morn on my way to work I checked the afr and it said 14. Something and when I went faster and shift it went to 18. Something is that good

the app torque is a little off sometimes but it was all I had I don't have the time this week to install the gauges : -/

And the spark plugs are ngk bkr7e
I asked a question be4 on spark plugs hea and thats what some one recommended








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You're really not going to get accurate AFR data from any OBDII program. That sort of thing is useful for temperature and fuel trim readings and checking CELs but thats about it.

I'm pretty sure those are copper plugs, which will throw off your ignition since your running a stock TRD tune.

get these: http://www.dezod.com/pd_ngk_iridium_bkr7eix11.cfm

Your engine is designed for optimal performance at 175-190 which is at the middle of your coolant temp gauge. If the needle doesn't move beyond the 1/3 mark your likely loosing performance and fuel economy.

I'm not saying Import Tuner is gospel or anything but they ran this article a while ago and its somewhat informative: http://importtuner.automotive.com/12...wer/index.html

I recommend running the thermostat that the TRD tune calls for, which appears to be 160

 

I got a colder thermostat cause I thought it would be better for the s/c in some way lol.it's 140

I'll pick up those spark plugs tomorrow is the gap the same 0.032

The torque app works good just delayed a lil but it kept giving me the same reading. so I figured it was good.


And thanks for the info And help





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yup, gap to .032

 

the s/c doesn't like to be too cold, at all.

and mine will idle at 500, its only a little rough but doesn't feel like it is wanting to die.
normally for me it'll idle around 6/700 and its fine and smooth.

 

Yea it's in the 700 now.


I also have a grease fitting on the shaft do u know how much/pumps of grease to put in there. And how many times a month I should do it.







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happen to have pictures of that grease fitting?

 

As with any grease fitting, you can do it annually or every oil change. Not mine but Gompka's pic of the fitting installed.

 

Yea that's just like mine





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