Hmm... Turbo kit + Stock airbox = win for us 2007 owners?
#1
Hmm... Turbo kit + Stock airbox = win for us 2007 owners?
If I were to buy a greddy kit, could I just hook up the intake pipe directly to my airbox with a coupler?
this would keep the MAF in the right position and I wouldnt have to worry about making/buying some kind of adapter....
Obviously i'd take out the stock filter and put a single high flow filter in there though...
what do you think?
then all i'd need is a 2007 harness for my emanage ultimate and i should be set!!
yea or nay?
thanks!
this would keep the MAF in the right position and I wouldnt have to worry about making/buying some kind of adapter....
Obviously i'd take out the stock filter and put a single high flow filter in there though...
what do you think?
then all i'd need is a 2007 harness for my emanage ultimate and i should be set!!
yea or nay?
thanks!
#4
how much lower air flow would there be with the stock air box with a k and n filter than with a cone filter... i cant imagine that it would be extremely different... and even if it was, the only thing i'd be hurting is my performance, right?
#5
if you're asking questions like these then don't get a turbo. At the very least if you still decide to go turbo do some research.
I don't mean to be a dick but the turbos on our cars are new.. In a few years people will be posting about how their setup broke and how everything is a mess, and all that. Running a turbo on a car like this will be expensive and you always need a few grand lying around in case a turbo, or engine goes... And expect to upgrade your trans, and if you push the power high enough expect engine work.
But to answer your question, you will lose probably 20 horses with the stock intake vs turo intake.. thats my estimate. Either way, do it right and run it how it's supposed to be run. That's a lot of power that you're getting robbed from. The less air coming in the worse for a turbo. The less air exiting the worse also, so plan on running a full exhaust. I hate when people get a turbo kit and then run a stock exhaust or a TRD axleback. That's another 15-20 horses you are getting robbed of.
The turbo setup I'm planning on safely running is gonna run me about 10 g's. It's a lot of money but I wanna push some serious power and I wanna do it all the right way..
I don't mean to be a dick but the turbos on our cars are new.. In a few years people will be posting about how their setup broke and how everything is a mess, and all that. Running a turbo on a car like this will be expensive and you always need a few grand lying around in case a turbo, or engine goes... And expect to upgrade your trans, and if you push the power high enough expect engine work.
But to answer your question, you will lose probably 20 horses with the stock intake vs turo intake.. thats my estimate. Either way, do it right and run it how it's supposed to be run. That's a lot of power that you're getting robbed from. The less air coming in the worse for a turbo. The less air exiting the worse also, so plan on running a full exhaust. I hate when people get a turbo kit and then run a stock exhaust or a TRD axleback. That's another 15-20 horses you are getting robbed of.
The turbo setup I'm planning on safely running is gonna run me about 10 g's. It's a lot of money but I wanna push some serious power and I wanna do it all the right way..
#6
Originally Posted by guitarguru44
if you're asking questions like these then don't get a turbo. At the very least if you still decide to go turbo do some research.
I don't mean to be a dick but the turbos on our cars are new.. In a few years people will be posting about how their setup broke and how everything is a mess, and all that. Running a turbo on a car like this will be expensive and you always need a few grand lying around in case a turbo, or engine goes... And expect to upgrade your trans, and if you push the power high enough expect engine work.
But to answer your question, you will lose probably 20 horses with the stock intake vs turo intake.. thats my estimate. Either way, do it right and run it how it's supposed to be run. That's a lot of power that you're getting robbed from. The less air coming in the worse for a turbo. The less air exiting the worse also, so plan on running a full exhaust. I hate when people get a turbo kit and then run a stock exhaust or a TRD axleback. That's another 15-20 horses you are getting robbed of.
The turbo setup I'm planning on safely running is gonna run me about 10 g's. It's a lot of money but I wanna push some serious power and I wanna do it all the right way..
I don't mean to be a dick but the turbos on our cars are new.. In a few years people will be posting about how their setup broke and how everything is a mess, and all that. Running a turbo on a car like this will be expensive and you always need a few grand lying around in case a turbo, or engine goes... And expect to upgrade your trans, and if you push the power high enough expect engine work.
But to answer your question, you will lose probably 20 horses with the stock intake vs turo intake.. thats my estimate. Either way, do it right and run it how it's supposed to be run. That's a lot of power that you're getting robbed from. The less air coming in the worse for a turbo. The less air exiting the worse also, so plan on running a full exhaust. I hate when people get a turbo kit and then run a stock exhaust or a TRD axleback. That's another 15-20 horses you are getting robbed of.
The turbo setup I'm planning on safely running is gonna run me about 10 g's. It's a lot of money but I wanna push some serious power and I wanna do it all the right way..
i highly doubt that id lose 20 hp using the stock box with a high flow filter over one of those cone filters....
i do plan on using a full exhaust though...
trust me, i've done plenty of research on how to setup a turbo on our cars safely and reliably... and anything ive suggested does not prove otherwise....
#7
I dunno it sounds to me like your just looking at the least expensive way to run a turbo on your car. Why not save a little more and go with a dezod or zpi kit that's designed to run for your 07. For example, a stage 0 zpi would be more bang for the buck for you anyway since you're gonna run the stock airbox, so why not do that?
#8
exactly if your not down to throw away a couple grand on the kit and go a cheap route then you dont need to turbo your tc. save up get a good kit. if you build it right and take care of it your kit and engine will last. engines and turbos blow because of negligence. just save up do it right and dont listen to turbo haters. just remember once you go turbo your addicted for life...
#9
Originally Posted by rodlandscion
I dunno it sounds to me like your just looking at the least expensive way to run a turbo on your car. Why not save a little more and go with a dezod or zpi kit that's designed to run for your 07. For example, a stage 0 zpi would be more bang for the buck for you anyway since you're gonna run the stock airbox, so why not do that?
i dont like the log manifolds... and i dunno if this is still true but zpi has horrible turn around times...
edit: and have you seen that one guys dezod 07 kit in hawaii? look at his maf adapter, it looks like a piece of sheet metal was cut, screwed into the old hole and a smaller hole was cut into it for the new maf... you're telling me that that is more logical than running it through the stock airbox??
wowwwww
#10
[quote="mike6789k"]
edit: and have you seen that one guys dezod 07 kit in hawaii? look at his maf adapter, it looks like a piece of sheet metal was cut, screwed into the old hole and a smaller hole was cut into it for the new maf... you're telling me that that is more logical than running it through the stock airbox??
wowwwww
The treadstone kit MAF adapter fits perfectly.
Originally Posted by rodlandscion
edit: and have you seen that one guys dezod 07 kit in hawaii? look at his maf adapter, it looks like a piece of sheet metal was cut, screwed into the old hole and a smaller hole was cut into it for the new maf... you're telling me that that is more logical than running it through the stock airbox??
wowwwww
#11
Originally Posted by mike6789k
Originally Posted by rodlandscion
I dunno it sounds to me like your just looking at the least expensive way to run a turbo on your car. Why not save a little more and go with a dezod or zpi kit that's designed to run for your 07. For example, a stage 0 zpi would be more bang for the buck for you anyway since you're gonna run the stock airbox, so why not do that?
i dont like the log manifolds... and i dunno if this is still true but zpi has horrible turn around times...
edit: and have you seen that one guys dezod 07 kit in hawaii? look at his maf adapter, it looks like a piece of sheet metal was cut, screwed into the old hole and a smaller hole was cut into it for the new maf... you're telling me that that is more logical than running it through the stock airbox??
wowwwww
#13
All I have to say is are you Freakin serious?!?! The name of any kit that uses the stock air box is called stupidity! My 3 yr old nephew knows that the stock air box is a power robber. WoW I need to sit down and have a beer and a few shots after this one. And just so you know Schuller the only kit that uses a modified version of any air box is the TRD S/C, it ups the airbox from the corolla-matrix air box style to the camry style which has a bigger filter, but still takes power. And just so you know mike, the machince shop that put out the first run of adapters for the intake pipe for Dezod built them backwards, but was fixed A.S.A.P mine works just fine and is great build quality.
#14
Originally Posted by noskatana94
All I have to say is are you Freakin serious?!?! The name of any kit that uses the stock air box is called stupidity! My 3 yr old nephew knows that the stock air box is a power robber. WoW I need to sit down and have a beer and a few shots after this one. And just so you know Schuller the only kit that uses a modified version of any air box is the TRD S/C, it ups the airbox from the corolla-matrix air box style to the camry style which has a bigger filter, but still takes power. And just so you know mike, the machince shop that put out the first run of adapters for the intake pipe for Dezod built them backwards, but was fixed A.S.A.P mine works just fine and is great build quality.
i've never actually seen a legitamite maf pipe from dezod for a 2007 tC...
like ive said before, i'm not looking to make 300whp here, i have an auto and need to keep the power under wraps, so this seems like a plausible way to keep the tranny happy and not do something ghetto with the MAF...
i realize the treadstone kit apparently has a maf flange that fits, but that kit is poorly designed otherwise...
#16
I wouldn't be so fast to go hard on mike.
NASCAR restrictor plates are aluminum plates with foul small holes drilled into them. The total area of of the holes is 2.4 square inches which is miniscule next to the 7 square inches that the Injen is. Each hole is about 2.5 cm in diameter.
And NASCAR engines make a whole hell of a lot more power than mike wants.
Yea, they're totally different engines but all engines are limited by the amount of air they can take in. Considering the NASCAR engines are comparitively starved for air and are still making 800 hp, I'd say the stock airbox flows plenty of air for mike's goals.
Edited.
NASCAR restrictor plates are aluminum plates with foul small holes drilled into them. The total area of of the holes is 2.4 square inches which is miniscule next to the 7 square inches that the Injen is. Each hole is about 2.5 cm in diameter.
And NASCAR engines make a whole hell of a lot more power than mike wants.
Yea, they're totally different engines but all engines are limited by the amount of air they can take in. Considering the NASCAR engines are comparitively starved for air and are still making 800 hp, I'd say the stock airbox flows plenty of air for mike's goals.
Edited.
#17
Originally Posted by kungpaosamuraiii
I wouldn't be so fast to go hard on mike.
NASCAR restrictor plates are aluminum plates with foul small holes drilled into them. The total area of of the holes is 2.4 square inches which is miniscule next to the 7 square inches that the Injen is. Each hole is about 2.5 cm in diameter.
And NASCAR engines make a whole hell of a lot more power than mike wants.
Yea, they're totally different engines but all engines are limited by the amount of air they can take in. Considering the NASCAR engines are comparitively starved for air and are still making 500 hp, I'd say the stock airbox flows plenty of air for mike's goals.
NASCAR restrictor plates are aluminum plates with foul small holes drilled into them. The total area of of the holes is 2.4 square inches which is miniscule next to the 7 square inches that the Injen is. Each hole is about 2.5 cm in diameter.
And NASCAR engines make a whole hell of a lot more power than mike wants.
Yea, they're totally different engines but all engines are limited by the amount of air they can take in. Considering the NASCAR engines are comparitively starved for air and are still making 500 hp, I'd say the stock airbox flows plenty of air for mike's goals.
If you want to keep power underwraps mike, then why go turbo? What would be the ultimate gain for you? If you are wanting more power, then why not just get an intake and exhaust? With a turbo setup you are more liable to have something break, especially on an auto tranny... not to mention the life of your car will go down considerably...
what are your horsepower goals and what are you looking to put into it then we can go from there...
#18
the ideal goal for me is 230ish whp, i dont want to start reaching the 245+ range... i realize the engine life will be shortened dramatically, but i figure i should spare my tranny and let it shift comfortably
#19
Originally Posted by mike6789k
the ideal goal for me is 230ish whp, i dont want to start reaching the 245+ range... i realize the engine life will be shortened dramatically, but i figure i should spare my tranny and let it shift comfortably
#20
Originally Posted by t_urbo_C_harged
what about your price range? are you going to run a tranny cooler?? Why not instead of keeping your MAF convert it to a MAP sensor, that way you can tune off of air pressure instead of air flow... but then again that goes into your cost factor and that would probably be more expensive
Tuning is key to reliability, period. You can safely push 300WHP (on a manual) with proper tuning for 50kmi+ - but the key here is PROPER TUNING - closed AND open loop and most likely using a stand-alone engine management system.
Of course it will cost more, but blowing something up in the engine by half-assing it the first time around will cost you a lot more, and not just monetary, but time and stress as well.