New Short Block Break In w/Boost
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From: NY
New Short Block Break In w/Boost
Got my car back Saturday after having the short block replaced. The Tech drove the first 30 miles into it and now im at 120. I wanna break this thing in perfectly so ive been taking it easy, varying my speed, no highway, allowing proper warm up/ cool down and havent gone over 4k rpms. I have the supercharger so the higher the rpms the more stress boost is gonna put on the new block. I will be changing my oil at 500 miles and then again at 2000. Im curious as to when i should reach a little higher with the engine speed possibly even redline? ...and maybe any other break in tips you got for me.
dude...theres so much controversy regarding this subject. some say baby it, i say break it in like its stolen. i broke my new motor in like it was stolen and have had no problems for 15k miles, no oil loss, nothing bad.
for the first 50 miles do take it easy....nothing above say 4k
change the oil after that.....hit a little boost( i would hit 5psi) but not to redline.
after 150 miles change oil.....then you drive that hizzoe like its stolen. redline it, full boost, etc.
change oil at 500 and then drive it normal.
for the first 50 miles do take it easy....nothing above say 4k
change the oil after that.....hit a little boost( i would hit 5psi) but not to redline.
after 150 miles change oil.....then you drive that hizzoe like its stolen. redline it, full boost, etc.
change oil at 500 and then drive it normal.
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New Short Block Break In w/Boost
Originally Posted by gingles
dude...theres so much controversy regarding this subject. some say baby it, i say break it in like its stolen. i broke my new motor in like it was stolen and have had no problems for 15k miles, no oil loss, nothing bad.
for the first 50 miles do take it easy....nothing above say 4k
change the oil after that.....hit a little boost( i would hit 5psi) but not to redline.
after 150 miles change oil.....then you drive that hizzoe like its stolen. redline it, full boost, etc.
change oil at 500 and then drive it normal.
for the first 50 miles do take it easy....nothing above say 4k
change the oil after that.....hit a little boost( i would hit 5psi) but not to redline.
after 150 miles change oil.....then you drive that hizzoe like its stolen. redline it, full boost, etc.
change oil at 500 and then drive it normal.
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From: NY
The dealer insisted that mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil will break the block in just fine. I was skeptical at first but then i remembered that corvettes and many other sports cars come from the factory with mobil 1 and are broken in with it so i let him do it. Thanks for the info gentlemen.
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New Short Block Break In w/Boost
Originally Posted by SciMeiji
The dealer insisted that mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil will break the block in just fine. I was skeptical at first but then i remembered that corvettes and many other sports cars come from the factory with mobil 1 and are broken in with it so i let him do it. Thanks for the info gentlemen.
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Phew... Now i feel better:
MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1_in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
_
Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor. Watch our answer to this myth.
MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1_in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
_
Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor. Watch our answer to this myth.
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I know thats what i always thought too. But what many people do not realize about mobil 1 synthetic is that its not much more "slippery" than conventional motor oil. Sure its better than conventional in other catagories, like temperature and cold starts, but when it comes to film strength its pretty sad. There was a magazine that did film strength tests on over 12 different popular motor oils and mobil 1 finshed close to last while other synthetics like Penrite and Royal purple finished on top. I think redline finshed in the middle. Those are the synthetics that SHOULD NOT be used to break in engines because they are the most slippery. If you would like to see the article let me know and ill find the link. Very interesting.
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...and i just called the dealer again to verify that everything will be fine breaking in the new motor on mobil 1 synthetic and they assure me that it was the best possible thing i could do for the motor.
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There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:
1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road
3) on the racetrack
Important Note:
Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it
means "heat cycling" the engine.
No, the above "cool down" instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with
"Heat Cycles" !!!
Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after
about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will
happen to a very old engine.
(Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.)
If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range.
(In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.)
What about "heat cycling" the engine ??
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation.
The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".
Yeah - But ...
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...
Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".
The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....
Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."
Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.
The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???
This is a good question ...
Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!
Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!
Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!
1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road
3) on the racetrack
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!
Then, using 4th gear:
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80%of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Warm the engine up
completely !!
Then, using 4th gear:
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80%of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.
The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.
You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.
The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.
You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.
Important Note:
Many readers have e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it
means "heat cycling" the engine.
No, the above "cool down" instructions only apply if you are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with
"Heat Cycles" !!!
Cool Down on a dyno is important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to cause it to boil out of the radiator after
about 4 dyno runs. This will happen to a brand new engine just as it will
happen to a very old engine.
(Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs whenever you use a dyno.)
If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the normal range.
(In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to let your bike cool down.)
What about "heat cycling" the engine ??
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation.
The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
On the Racetrack:
Warm the engine up completely:
Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or
any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session
and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
Go For It !!
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
On the Racetrack:
Warm the engine up completely:
Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or
any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session
and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
Go For It !!
Yeah - But ...
the owner's manual says to break it in easy ...
Notice that this technique isn't "beating" on the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time with this approach, since it seems to "go against the grain".
The argument for an easy break-in is usually: "that's what the manual says" ....
Or more specifically: "there are tight parts in the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard."
Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.
The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???
This is a good question ...
Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!
Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!
Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!
I trust the dealer about as far as I can throw them, so I wouldn't say its ok just because they say so. I broke my engine in on regular because I'm going to be changing it a few times in the next few hundred miles anyway. Broke it in hard, 15psi on day 2. Took it apart for a valve problem, unrelated to break in, and the engine looks beautiful, looks like everything is breaking in nicely.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 177
From: NY
I trust the dealer about as far as I can throw them, so I wouldn't say its ok just because they say so. I broke my engine in on regular because I'm going to be changing it a few times in the next few hundred miles anyway. Broke it in hard, 15psi on day 2. Took it apart for a valve problem, unrelated to break in, and the engine looks beautiful, looks like everything is breaking in nicely.
Nice to hear you got that beast of yours running already gompka. Its looking like its comin along real good man.
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^^^ dude? I think you will be fine. Personally, I would opt for something with a higher film strength as well, but it is all personal preference. Check out bobistheoilguy.com for good oil info. I will be running Rotella T full synthetic 5w-40 next oil change, has great characteristics and reviews. Right now I am currently running Mobil 1 0w-40 and it is good as well. Not as good of properties as the rotella and some others out there. At my dealer we have rebuilt numerous engines, and the engines that require synthetic get mobil 1 after they are built. I haven't seen any come back or have heard of any reported problems.
Gingles - instead of just saying I wouldn't and I warned you, why not show hard evidence that synthetic oil has done more harm than conventional oil in a fresh motor build. Either way the oil is being changed very frequently with a new motor build, so I do see your point on going with a cheaper/conventional motor oil. If you do have the money, I don't see it hurting to run synthetic though. I would run synthetic oil most likely.
Gingles - instead of just saying I wouldn't and I warned you, why not show hard evidence that synthetic oil has done more harm than conventional oil in a fresh motor build. Either way the oil is being changed very frequently with a new motor build, so I do see your point on going with a cheaper/conventional motor oil. If you do have the money, I don't see it hurting to run synthetic though. I would run synthetic oil most likely.
for the first start up and few miles i used Royale Purple break-in oil, after the car idled several times for about 20-30 minutes that oil was drained and smelled like GAS ! Because at first it was hard to start with the new cams and intuned. Later on for some reason it was starting alot easier i guess stock ecu and FIC somehow adjusted themselfs to start up almost normal. ( that was done in texas while i was in iraq)
Anyway, after that car went to NY and oil was drained and Vinny Ten showed me that oil which like i states smelled like gas. Vinny put in Mobil 1 full syntetic and broke the engine on the dyno in all gears and did loading in the dyno with Hydra EMS ( he said thats how factories break in the engine ).
Pretty much no smoke, no problems whatsoever.
I think breaking the engine on the dyno with the tuner who knows his stuff is the best way.
Anyway, after that car went to NY and oil was drained and Vinny Ten showed me that oil which like i states smelled like gas. Vinny put in Mobil 1 full syntetic and broke the engine on the dyno in all gears and did loading in the dyno with Hydra EMS ( he said thats how factories break in the engine ).
Pretty much no smoke, no problems whatsoever.
I think breaking the engine on the dyno with the tuner who knows his stuff is the best way.
Gingles - instead of just saying I wouldn't and I warned you, why not show hard evidence that synthetic oil has done more harm than conventional oil in a fresh motor build. Either way the oil is being changed very frequently with a new motor build, so I do see your point on going with a cheaper/conventional motor oil. If you do have the money, I don't see it hurting to run synthetic though. I would run synthetic oil most likely.[/quote]
dude....go to www.google.com and search....millions of threads regarding this topic.
as far as conventional oil being cheaper...i dont care. i use conventional oil because its been proven time and time again against synthetic in a brand new built motor.
you came here with a question and I answered it. goodbye
dude....go to www.google.com and search....millions of threads regarding this topic.
as far as conventional oil being cheaper...i dont care. i use conventional oil because its been proven time and time again against synthetic in a brand new built motor.
you came here with a question and I answered it. goodbye