Pre-tune checklist
maybe a mod should sticky this...........
The purpose of this list is to ensure your car is ready for a tune, and to save yourself headaches and $$$ by avoiding issues during a tune.
Spark plugs: make sure they are new, correct heat range, and are gapped properly.. .028 is fine for low boost. .026 for 12 to 14psi . Built motor between .024 and .020 depending on boost target.
Exhaust: make sure there are no leaks, because the dyno probe will read inaccurately. If the leak is before your primary O2 sensor a good tune becomes impossible.
Check Engine codes: If you had check engine codes before you put a turbo on, they are not going anywhere. If the MAF or primary O2 sensor is bad... replace it before tuning.
Charge pipes: make sure they are bead rolled for anything above 10psi. Make sure all couplers are secure and in good condition .
Tires: Don't show up for a tune with corded tires, things will end badly .
Vacumme lines: Boost controller pressure source should be from compressor housing or charge pipe, not teed off a BOV. Make sure your engine management map sensor line is secure, if it blows off.... engine go boom.
Leaks: If you have JB Weld holding your radiator together, we aren't going to allow you on our $135,000 dyno.
Wastegate: If you are shooting for a 8psi tune, don't have a 14psi spring. On the flip, if you want 30psi, don't have a 5psi wastegate spring . Make sure wastegate dump won't melt or burn anything. If dump is under hood along with the air filter, a SERIOUS horsepower loss will occur. Motors don't like to consume exhaust gasses.
Gas: Don't show up for a tune with the gas light on, the tuner does need to hit the gas pedal. Full tank is prefered, unless the same shop tuning is doing a fuel pump install then 1/2 tank is fine. 91 to 93 octane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May seem like common sense, but we drain a lot of gas because people show up with 87 octane, and we wonder why so much timing had to be pulled.
If I think of anything else, I will add to the list. If anyone else has something Ill add it.
The purpose of this list is to ensure your car is ready for a tune, and to save yourself headaches and $$$ by avoiding issues during a tune.
Spark plugs: make sure they are new, correct heat range, and are gapped properly.. .028 is fine for low boost. .026 for 12 to 14psi . Built motor between .024 and .020 depending on boost target.
Exhaust: make sure there are no leaks, because the dyno probe will read inaccurately. If the leak is before your primary O2 sensor a good tune becomes impossible.
Check Engine codes: If you had check engine codes before you put a turbo on, they are not going anywhere. If the MAF or primary O2 sensor is bad... replace it before tuning.
Charge pipes: make sure they are bead rolled for anything above 10psi. Make sure all couplers are secure and in good condition .
Tires: Don't show up for a tune with corded tires, things will end badly .
Vacumme lines: Boost controller pressure source should be from compressor housing or charge pipe, not teed off a BOV. Make sure your engine management map sensor line is secure, if it blows off.... engine go boom.
Leaks: If you have JB Weld holding your radiator together, we aren't going to allow you on our $135,000 dyno.
Wastegate: If you are shooting for a 8psi tune, don't have a 14psi spring. On the flip, if you want 30psi, don't have a 5psi wastegate spring . Make sure wastegate dump won't melt or burn anything. If dump is under hood along with the air filter, a SERIOUS horsepower loss will occur. Motors don't like to consume exhaust gasses.
Gas: Don't show up for a tune with the gas light on, the tuner does need to hit the gas pedal. Full tank is prefered, unless the same shop tuning is doing a fuel pump install then 1/2 tank is fine. 91 to 93 octane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May seem like common sense, but we drain a lot of gas because people show up with 87 octane, and we wonder why so much timing had to be pulled.
If I think of anything else, I will add to the list. If anyone else has something Ill add it.
Oil change within last 1000 miles, Proper fuel for different maps, fluid levels, and make sure the car is safe for the tuner to drive for a road test, example, make sure our seatbelts/harnesses work.
Always bring some spare cash. You might have missed something, and fixing stuff on the dyno is pricey, some shops charge dyno time to work on your car on the dyno.
Always bring some spare cash. You might have missed something, and fixing stuff on the dyno is pricey, some shops charge dyno time to work on your car on the dyno.
maybe a mod should sticky this...........
The purpose of this list is to ensure your car is ready for a tune, and to save yourself headaches and $$$ by avoiding issues during a tune.
Spark plugs: make sure they are new, correct heat range, and are gapped properly.. .028 is fine for low boost. .026 for 12 to 14psi . Built motor between .024 and .020 depending on boost target.
Exhaust: make sure there are no leaks, because the dyno probe will read inaccurately. If the leak is before your primary O2 sensor a good tune becomes impossible.
Check Engine codes: If you had check engine codes before you put a turbo on, they are not going anywhere. If the MAF or primary O2 sensor is bad... replace it before tuning.
Charge pipes: make sure they are bead rolled for anything above 10psi. Make sure all couplers are secure and in good condition .
Tires: Don't show up for a tune with corded tires, things will end badly .
Vacumme lines: Boost controller pressure source should be from compressor housing or charge pipe, not teed off a BOV. Make sure your engine management map sensor line is secure, if it blows off.... engine go boom.
Leaks: If you have JB Weld holding your radiator together, we aren't going to allow you on our $135,000 dyno.
Wastegate: If you are shooting for a 8psi tune, don't have a 14psi spring. On the flip, if you want 30psi, don't have a 5psi wastegate spring . Make sure wastegate dump won't melt or burn anything. If dump is under hood along with the air filter, a SERIOUS horsepower loss will occur. Motors don't like to consume exhaust gasses.
Gas: Don't show up for a tune with the gas light on, the tuner does need to hit the gas pedal. Full tank is prefered, unless the same shop tuning is doing a fuel pump install then 1/2 tank is fine. 91 to 93 octane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May seem like common sense, but we drain a lot of gas because people show up with 87 octane, and we wonder why so much timing had to be pulled.
If I think of anything else, I will add to the list. If anyone else has something Ill add it.
The purpose of this list is to ensure your car is ready for a tune, and to save yourself headaches and $$$ by avoiding issues during a tune.
Spark plugs: make sure they are new, correct heat range, and are gapped properly.. .028 is fine for low boost. .026 for 12 to 14psi . Built motor between .024 and .020 depending on boost target.
Exhaust: make sure there are no leaks, because the dyno probe will read inaccurately. If the leak is before your primary O2 sensor a good tune becomes impossible.
Check Engine codes: If you had check engine codes before you put a turbo on, they are not going anywhere. If the MAF or primary O2 sensor is bad... replace it before tuning.
Charge pipes: make sure they are bead rolled for anything above 10psi. Make sure all couplers are secure and in good condition .
Tires: Don't show up for a tune with corded tires, things will end badly .
Vacumme lines: Boost controller pressure source should be from compressor housing or charge pipe, not teed off a BOV. Make sure your engine management map sensor line is secure, if it blows off.... engine go boom.
Leaks: If you have JB Weld holding your radiator together, we aren't going to allow you on our $135,000 dyno.
Wastegate: If you are shooting for a 8psi tune, don't have a 14psi spring. On the flip, if you want 30psi, don't have a 5psi wastegate spring . Make sure wastegate dump won't melt or burn anything. If dump is under hood along with the air filter, a SERIOUS horsepower loss will occur. Motors don't like to consume exhaust gasses.
Gas: Don't show up for a tune with the gas light on, the tuner does need to hit the gas pedal. Full tank is prefered, unless the same shop tuning is doing a fuel pump install then 1/2 tank is fine. 91 to 93 octane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May seem like common sense, but we drain a lot of gas because people show up with 87 octane, and we wonder why so much timing had to be pulled.
If I think of anything else, I will add to the list. If anyone else has something Ill add it.
Oil change within last 1000 miles, Proper fuel for different maps, fluid levels, and make sure the car is safe for the tuner to drive for a road test, example, make sure our seatbelts/harnesses work.
Always bring some spare cash. You might have missed something, and fixing stuff on the dyno is pricey, some shops charge dyno time to work on your car on the dyno.
Always bring some spare cash. You might have missed something, and fixing stuff on the dyno is pricey, some shops charge dyno time to work on your car on the dyno.
Full fluid top off, full safety from tires, brake lines, seats etc.
No bent wheels, toasted wheel bearings etc.
Make sure setup is flawlessly installed with no leaks on anything: exhaust, vac lines, oil etc.
also, with the fuel part, i would recommend not getting filled up at a cheaper gas station that you've never heard of or when they are adding gas to the tanks at the gas station.
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,168
From: Vista, CA or Camp Pendleton
i don't even work at a shop and i've seen this before.
i'd say things to prepare for should be added
Dont show up on a stock clutch and chew out the shop because it started slipping.
all of this should be common sense but I know what its like....Iv wasted quit of bit of time having to fix things before i can tune a customer. Iv gotten soo used to it I check everything out before i ever hook up my laptop.
Best thing I can tell folks is to call their tuner and ask what they recommend should be done before showing up for a tuning session.
ill see about making this a sticky....
Best thing I can tell folks is to call their tuner and ask what they recommend should be done before showing up for a tuning session.
ill see about making this a sticky....
Minor question here but is it really necessary to run a .028 plug gap for low boost? TRD recommends .032 for the SC and that's what I'm running with a T3/T04E at 6 psi. No misfires since I replaced the ND coppers with NGK iridiums. The coppers had trouble firing at 11:1 AFR but the iridiums don't.
this one should be mandatory in ur list....dont bring friends that are bad influences either. my buddy talked me into havin em change the fuel pump. i went in lookin to spend around 500, walked out spending 865 w the tune, plugs, and pump w install. if u dont have all of ur mods in check, dont walk in the any less than a g in ur pocket.
altho, im very happy and pleased w my outcome, my bank account doesnt seem to feel the same as i do.
altho, im very happy and pleased w my outcome, my bank account doesnt seem to feel the same as i do.
I am have a few more tweaks in to add them i will be back up there for a boost upgrade and tune.







