(for the most part)

 

The oem ecu see's 3.13 as the voltage in which is stoich

So if ur changing it behond that. Check ur primary o2sensor

 

iv never seen that specific value work on any tc as of yet to reach 14.7 (either stock or boosted)...they tend to vary...keep in mind that when dealing with such low voltage that many many things can affect it.

like you said o2 sensor could be damaged or fouled. also wireing plays a big big roll in all this. think about the connections with the fic, pnp harness, hardwired, ect, all thes can and will affect how much resistance is in the system. those that have hardwired i would venture to say would have a different value versus those that use a pnp harness. Like i said when dealing with such low voltage anything can affect the end voltage, we are dealing with +-.5 volts. also running higher voltage wires along with thes leads can affect output voltage, not normaly an issue since alot of the stock wireing is shielded and grounded but should be taken into consideration.

for instance my car before used a value of 3.2 volts and now 2.8 is the butter zone (o2 is working fine but could be changed since its never been, marcial uses 3.1something, kyle uses 3.2, hector i think was 3.0. they vary too much to pin it to one exact value and call it truth.

either way they all should get him in the ball park but he will find the value that works best for him and thats what matters.

 

Should of noted that was per a aem tech that i was talking to when he was at a local dyno trouble shooting some aem v2 issues!

 

aem tech...lol...gotta love those guys...thier story changes depending on who you talk to. we had an aem tech on here but he only showed up twice but he did answer a few questions (or was a just a rep, i cant remember), look it up and see what all he said.

 

also mr.meaty can vouch for that too...If i remember correctly when his car was being tuned in arizona by a local shop (dont remember the name but the tuner's name was Tony) they had an aem tech out there that helped out, his map had 3.2 around the idle areas. Iv even tried his map out, it runs great!!!! i mean GREAT, he had a great tuner for sure.

 

Im sensing some sacarism!

 

?...anyways the shop was UMS tuning. i tried to find that thread that the aem tech posted, couldnt find it though.

 

well it's idling where it should be now. i unplugged it so i could run the wires through the glove box for easy access and now it idles where it should.

but my AFR readings aren't spot on throughout anymore. when cruising it sits at 14.8 and fluctuates a little bit. would this also be the voltage that would take care of that?

 

what voltage did you use?

its hard to say exactly cause every little bump beleave it or not will make your foot bounce on the peddle a tad and that will make your afr's a little inconsistant. try finding a nice long run of decent road that doesnt go up or down any hills, set the cruise and peep the afr's. its either that or put it on a dyno for more accurate runs.

 

FWIW, 3.3V = 14.7:1 with a brand new Denso AFR sensor. 3.2V = 14.5:1. Not much difference.

 

Yeah 3.2V for me is 14.8 AFR. If you are stock injectors, I would set your Injector Response Time to 600us or so...With Deatschwerks 550's, I would use 1000-1100us. This needs to be set just right to get your fuel trims perfected and your AFRs rock solid. If not they will be bouncing all over the place.

 

Yeah I set the cruise and it still wasn't steady. I'm going to try the response and changing the voltages up a little bit and see if it works pretty good.

 

It depends on the conditions of the road, if it will be steady or not. Like Crush said, the fluctuations may be your foot lifting off the gas a little. As for cruise, the ECU will modulate the amount of gas to maintain a certain vehicle speed, not RPM, so it will also fluctuate. Basically find a long stretch uphill and try to keep RPMs steady, that should show solid AFR readings, IF your response times/o2/fuel maps are right. What are your fuel trims by the way?

 

they are at 14.8. they go to 14.7 but are mainly on 14.8 and bounce from 14.6-15.0.

i set the cruise at 75 on a freshly paved ashphalt freeway and it stayed mainly at 14.8

 

That sounds okay to me...

 

alright. sometimes it doesn't start up right away and chuggs. at idle it is rough. afr's bounce like crazy too. would the resistor mod do much for that?

also, i don't know if this would help but i have CEL with P0300(rand. misfire), P0304(cylinder 4 misfire), and P0420(whatever the O2 sensor one is)

 

p0420 means your secondary 02 sensor (rear) is not reading a cat, antifouler will take care of that. Misfire codes could be a few things but seams like your running fat, could be caused by not having the o2 map just right.

When do these codes pop up? like i said many things can cause misfire. if you get the o2 map adjusted and your still having the misfire codes try to swap out sparkplugs on #4 with #3 as well as coil packs. still have the issue try swapping out injectors from #4 to #3.

btw are you using a pnp harness? hardwired?

 

resistors i dont think are going to do it but it shouldnt hurt to try it out.

 

I was thinking the same thing as well, if hardwired, check and double-check your connections. The PNP harness is really the best way to go all around because they give you tons of extra wire to work with if you do need to tap a wire down the road. Worth it, IMO, saves time and headaches...And I agree with crush on the maps not being up to snuff.