i was driving on the highway last night and when i finally pulled off and got to a light, i heard my car rattling like a chainsaw. i stopped and opened the hood and saw the supercharger was rattling like no other. looks like when ptuning did the rebuild, the bolts on the pulley side shaft to the casing were not torqued and/or no loctite was used and they all came loose. looks like the play from the bolts that came loose ate the brand new bearings that were put in.... $1800 down the drain once again! guess i have to get the car towed to ptuning to get fixed.

 

That sucks man. Has Ptuning said anything about this yet?

 

yeah apparently i misread the work order. there is no warranty on rebuilds. i understood it as no warranty on the parts because there aftermarket which made total sense. I completely failed to realize it meant on labor as well because part of the reason i brought it to them in the first place was there expertise and one of the service advisers said there was a 12 month warranty on there labor. i cant afford to tow it down there or pay $3500 in three months to rebuild it once again so im going to tear it down myself and take a shot at rebuilding it. I was told ahead of time there is only a 70% success rate on rebuilds and mine performed flawlessly until the bolts backed out and caused the supercharger to come apart. oh well, i had wanted to swap out for a turbo kit but at this point, it seems out of the question!

 

So the cliff notes are
-Ptuning rebuilt your engine
-forgot to torque/tighten SC bolts
-SC comes loose and breaks engine/rebuild
-Ptuning says they don't warranty their labor and told you to F off

Correct? If that's so you should link to this thread every time someone mentions their name. Thats bull____

 

In all fairness, it was on the work order, i failed to read it properly or misunderstood it. And second I'm not a detective, I just saw the nuts backed off and the bearings are now shot. I can only assume that was what happened but I guess I'll never really know what caused them to back off. Obviously it was vibration but I assume if there was loctite used that would not have happened. Now it could very well be that the bearings failed and caused the vibration and bolts backing off but I highly doubt that for a few reasons. The entire blower was rebuilt minus the impeller. The seals, shaft, and over spec bearings were all used as well as a grease fitting. I highly doubt brand new bearings failed when they only had 3k miles on them and greased.

 

Either way I'm out at car, $2000+, and a lot of time which is a blower but it is what it is

 

sorry to heard that. My SC went bad after rebuild. I don't want to dump money into SC again. So I just back to stock.

 

How long did yours last?

 

I tried doin rebuild myself an failed ended buying a used frm a friend

 

i got the bearings from Kickcaffine and rebuild by Ptuning, It last less than 2 year. Then there was rattling noise from the SC. I didn't see anything loose. The tc drove fine, but i can't stand the noise. I paid Ptuning to make my tc stock.

Here is a video. (WARNING!! turn down your speakers)

I sold the bad compressor. The buyer told me some metal part was broken and missing inside.
I don't think Ptuning screw up my rebuild.
TRD made crappy 2006 SC.

 

did you guys have version 1 or 2 of the S/C?

 

To be honest I have no idea... I just yanked it off the car tonight

 

how do you find out?

 

well ususally the version 1 is for the 05 06 model tc's and the 07+ has the version 2...
i know this because i have a 05 tc with a version 1 s/c in my car and its been in there for about 4 years now and i had recently purchased the version 2 s/c not to long ago hoping it would be the same fitment but turns out it didn't work. (didn't know it was a 07+ model s/c charger until i had already purchased it)
so now i have a 07+ version 2 s/c laying around boxed up in my house since i cant use it and it only has 500 miles on it

 

mine almost sounds like that on a cold start but its cause i gotta change out my idler pulleys soon
and by the looks of the s/c and the shaft your s/c is the version 1

 

What's the differences

 

the shaft cover is thicker on the version 2 i believe and the place where you bolt the pulley housing is different and along with only 1 idler pulley instead of 2. the s/c holding bracket is a inch and a half clocked different from the version 2 along with the holes on the s/c for the holding bracket

 

Version 1 = smaller drive shaft housing and tamper evident cover on idler pulley bolt
Version 2 = heavier duty shaft housing and tamper resistant bolt head on idler pulley

The changes from V1 to V2 were because there was an issue with the eventuallity of oil leakage from the drive shaft; as well as the tamper evident cover not stopping people from removing it and the bolt. The V2 bolt is actually a specific bolt pattern similar to the tire lock nut. The V2 heavier duty drive shaft assembly did seem to address the oil issue.

 

lol there you go

 

Same thing happen to me my bolts flew off the pulley side bracket Lol. S/c shaft was leaning caused the little ear bracket to break off. Damaged the bearings but not the shaft thank god lol Do you know what kind/size bolts are they I can't remember and now I'm looking for some.

Sent from my SGH-T999