time to buy my turbo!!!
#1
time to buy my turbo!!!
Ok before i order everything i want to confirm that ive got everything i need.
This is what ive got in my "shopping cart"
Dezod S1 Sciontology Turbo System-Scion tC 07-08 (5 Speed Only)
.63 turbine a/r
no ball bearing upgrade
catless, recirulated downpipe
EzPOD 3 guage pod for
Autometer Wideband o2 gauge, PSI -30/30 gauge, and exhaust temp
Questions:
.63 turbine has more air flow than the .48, yet more lag. So I think i want to get the .63, any thing wrong with that?
I decided to get the recirculated so i dont have to run a dump pipe down, is it worth getting a open dump?
do i need a turbo timer?
Any thing i missed or suggestions?
This is what ive got in my "shopping cart"
Dezod S1 Sciontology Turbo System-Scion tC 07-08 (5 Speed Only)
.63 turbine a/r
no ball bearing upgrade
catless, recirulated downpipe
EzPOD 3 guage pod for
Autometer Wideband o2 gauge, PSI -30/30 gauge, and exhaust temp
Questions:
.63 turbine has more air flow than the .48, yet more lag. So I think i want to get the .63, any thing wrong with that?
I decided to get the recirculated so i dont have to run a dump pipe down, is it worth getting a open dump?
do i need a turbo timer?
Any thing i missed or suggestions?
#2
Good list...
Don't worry about lag on a log
Get the largest AR you can..if they have an .82 get it...there is an option for a 1.06 for those turbos....see if you can get that.
The bigger AR you go the better the powerband will be on those kits
Regards-
Todd
Don't worry about lag on a log
Get the largest AR you can..if they have an .82 get it...there is an option for a 1.06 for those turbos....see if you can get that.
The bigger AR you go the better the powerband will be on those kits
Regards-
Todd
#4
Get the BB upgrade.
A standard bushing turbo on a log will perform better than a BB turbo will. Especially with a large turbine housing.
+ you get better performance at a lower cost.
And its a myth that BB turbos last longer than bushing turbos....they both fail for the same reasons........oil contamination, too much oil pressure, or not enough oil pressure. Or crap in the compressor housing.
Education is key..
Regards-
Todd
#5
What he said ^^
I just wanted to say how impressed I am with your help Todd. Even if the person is purchasing a kit from the "competitor" you chime right in and help out where you can. Shows a great deal of respect and maturity.
Congrats on the boosting OP.
I just wanted to say how impressed I am with your help Todd. Even if the person is purchasing a kit from the "competitor" you chime right in and help out where you can. Shows a great deal of respect and maturity.
Congrats on the boosting OP.
#8
Sorry but I am stuck on the dezod kit
Try and see what the largest AR you can get for that turbo.....you won't be disappointed and you will start a new trend
Regards-
Todd
#10
63 is biggest they offer with this kit :/
Call Paul tomorrow and ask if there is a .82ar or even a .96ar
being that its a 5 bolt he might be able to get you one of those or one in between.
Get as big as you can. If you cant then .63 it is....but the bigger one will get you bigger results
Good luck and happy boosting
Regards-
Todd
#14
i think its the turbine pitch or something... basicaly the higher the number the higher volume of air it pushes.
Im only comparing to what i know from my Jet ski's impeller .. i could be completely wrong lol
Im only comparing to what i know from my Jet ski's impeller .. i could be completely wrong lol
#15
Whoah whoah whoah...
Some misconceptions about AR here...
The .63 AR is a great turbo for the tC if you want a nice WIDE power band, not just high hp. If you go too big, you have serious lag and even the possibility keeping the turbine from reaching a desired speed or pressure.
The AR has nothing to do with the turbine itself, whether it be size or trim/angle. It's all about the housing. The A stands for area, and the R stands for radius. Most people tweak the A which is the area inside the turbine housing. Keeping it small keeps exhaust speeds higher, which makes a faster spoolup and spins the turbine quicker. If you go larger, the exhaust speeds slow down, you get more lag, less back pressure (especially if accompanied by a larger wheel).
The R is rarely changed, due to it being the actual radius of the housing. A B housing is a B housing, an E housing is an E housing. You can still tweak the area inside it though, which is what makes the A/R change. A is above R. If you make the area and radius the same, that gives you a 1.0 AR.
.63 is a great balance between top end and power band. Having torque below 4000rpms is important for driveability. If you go too big, you loose a lot of response. This makes the car feel less alive and will definitely feel slower until the full boost arives.
I hope that helps explain things and clear up some facts. If anyone else has questions let me know.
Some misconceptions about AR here...
The .63 AR is a great turbo for the tC if you want a nice WIDE power band, not just high hp. If you go too big, you have serious lag and even the possibility keeping the turbine from reaching a desired speed or pressure.
The AR has nothing to do with the turbine itself, whether it be size or trim/angle. It's all about the housing. The A stands for area, and the R stands for radius. Most people tweak the A which is the area inside the turbine housing. Keeping it small keeps exhaust speeds higher, which makes a faster spoolup and spins the turbine quicker. If you go larger, the exhaust speeds slow down, you get more lag, less back pressure (especially if accompanied by a larger wheel).
The R is rarely changed, due to it being the actual radius of the housing. A B housing is a B housing, an E housing is an E housing. You can still tweak the area inside it though, which is what makes the A/R change. A is above R. If you make the area and radius the same, that gives you a 1.0 AR.
.63 is a great balance between top end and power band. Having torque below 4000rpms is important for driveability. If you go too big, you loose a lot of response. This makes the car feel less alive and will definitely feel slower until the full boost arives.
I hope that helps explain things and clear up some facts. If anyone else has questions let me know.
#18
Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Whoah whoah whoah...
Some misconceptions about AR here...
The .63 AR is a great turbo for the tC if you want a nice WIDE power band, not just high hp. If you go too big, you have serious lag and even the possibility keeping the turbine from reaching a desired speed or pressure.
The AR has nothing to do with the turbine itself, whether it be size or trim/angle. It's all about the housing. The A stands for area, and the R stands for radius. Most people tweak the A which is the area inside the turbine housing. Keeping it small keeps exhaust speeds higher, which makes a faster spoolup and spins the turbine quicker. If you go larger, the exhaust speeds slow down, you get more lag, less back pressure (especially if accompanied by a larger wheel).
The R is rarely changed, due to it being the actual radius of the housing. A B housing is a B housing, an E housing is an E housing. You can still tweak the area inside it though, which is what makes the A/R change. A is above R. If you make the area and radius the same, that gives you a 1.0 AR.
.63 is a great balance between top end and power band. Having torque below 4000rpms is important for driveability. If you go too big, you loose a lot of response. This makes the car feel less alive and will definitely feel slower until the full boost arives.
I hope that helps explain things and clear up some facts. If anyone else has questions let me know.
Some misconceptions about AR here...
The .63 AR is a great turbo for the tC if you want a nice WIDE power band, not just high hp. If you go too big, you have serious lag and even the possibility keeping the turbine from reaching a desired speed or pressure.
The AR has nothing to do with the turbine itself, whether it be size or trim/angle. It's all about the housing. The A stands for area, and the R stands for radius. Most people tweak the A which is the area inside the turbine housing. Keeping it small keeps exhaust speeds higher, which makes a faster spoolup and spins the turbine quicker. If you go larger, the exhaust speeds slow down, you get more lag, less back pressure (especially if accompanied by a larger wheel).
The R is rarely changed, due to it being the actual radius of the housing. A B housing is a B housing, an E housing is an E housing. You can still tweak the area inside it though, which is what makes the A/R change. A is above R. If you make the area and radius the same, that gives you a 1.0 AR.
.63 is a great balance between top end and power band. Having torque below 4000rpms is important for driveability. If you go too big, you loose a lot of response. This makes the car feel less alive and will definitely feel slower until the full boost arives.
I hope that helps explain things and clear up some facts. If anyone else has questions let me know.
Afterall, you learned all about A/Rs first hand with 2 years of testing on your tC. I think we tried about 4-5 different configurations.
#20
.48 is lower. The result is a faster spool up, but less top end power. The smaller AR keeps exhaust gases at a high speed, but can result in creating back pressure on the engine because it's channeling all the air into a smaller spot. The back pressure is what keeps your engine from making high horsepower when compared to the torque output.
The larger AR will net a higher horsepower, but with the sacrafice of engine response, and less low end power. Everyone has their preferences.
The larger AR will net a higher horsepower, but with the sacrafice of engine response, and less low end power. Everyone has their preferences.