turbo boost problem?
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From: Lost in Tranquility
Originally Posted by gizmo
yea it will - but once i go over like 4 1/2 ooo rpm's(or so) it starts to hold bk.
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From: TN
Originally Posted by gizmo
ok similar situation i think.
I installed the greddy turbo 2 weeks ago on my 06 AT tC. It ran fine the first week - everything seemed to be going smoothly. Then i wsa going about 65mph on the turnpike and decided to accelerate to sitch lanes. When i did this the car seemed like it jus didnt want to go - it kind of held back. I knew that wasnt normal. i checked all my piping and vacumme hoses.. nothing. I was driving home a few days lter and same thing going 65ish and wanted to pass some one.... and the car hold back.. like it doesnt want to go - i hear like a "ffooo" sound like boost wants to kick in but doesnt or can't. i dont know. checked everythin again... and all seemed fine. i called my tuner told him and i'm taking it tommorow to have him look at it. Any idea what it could be beside a tuning problem. if im just at a light and hit it its fine. the times its done it has been when im already going fast. like over 4kis rpi it seems to do this.
i appreciate any info u could provide.
ohh yea im only at 6psi right now, got the greddy emanage w/ injectors and greddy exhaust.
got boost gauge - reads normal
Any suggestions
I installed the greddy turbo 2 weeks ago on my 06 AT tC. It ran fine the first week - everything seemed to be going smoothly. Then i wsa going about 65mph on the turnpike and decided to accelerate to sitch lanes. When i did this the car seemed like it jus didnt want to go - it kind of held back. I knew that wasnt normal. i checked all my piping and vacumme hoses.. nothing. I was driving home a few days lter and same thing going 65ish and wanted to pass some one.... and the car hold back.. like it doesnt want to go - i hear like a "ffooo" sound like boost wants to kick in but doesnt or can't. i dont know. checked everythin again... and all seemed fine. i called my tuner told him and i'm taking it tommorow to have him look at it. Any idea what it could be beside a tuning problem. if im just at a light and hit it its fine. the times its done it has been when im already going fast. like over 4kis rpi it seems to do this.
i appreciate any info u could provide.
ohh yea im only at 6psi right now, got the greddy emanage w/ injectors and greddy exhaust.
got boost gauge - reads normal
Any suggestions
Sounds like a tunning issue to me. And being that you are auto, I'm sure it's a little bit tricky tunning the Automatics shift points.
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From: PA/NJ
No- i didnt reset the ecu.
i'm taking it tomorrow evening to my tuner to have him check it out.
Hopefully its a tunnig issue and not something bigger.
Yea the greddy map is a pain for a/t.
I really appreciate the suggestions - ill let u know what the outcome is.
i'm taking it tomorrow evening to my tuner to have him check it out.
Hopefully its a tunnig issue and not something bigger.
Yea the greddy map is a pain for a/t.
I really appreciate the suggestions - ill let u know what the outcome is.
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Don't reset the ECU. Otherwise your tuner will not be able to re-create the problem. I had a real hard time getting the e-manange to tune the larger injectors on my auto t/c. Do you have the timing harness installed? This may be an alternative to better the tune.
Eric's tips: Only Pull MAF under open-loop boost to get your A/F corrected and work with the timing map to get the car to produce safe power if needed.
Hope this helps.
Eric's tips: Only Pull MAF under open-loop boost to get your A/F corrected and work with the timing map to get the car to produce safe power if needed.
Hope this helps.
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From: Lost in Tranquility
Originally Posted by gizmo
some how i cant find it on their site - maybe its named differently?
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It's got something to do with how the e-manage is typically setup to handle larger injectors. There is a base-correction map in the setup screen. This basically adjust the MAF voltage across the board to bring the injector duty-cycle down so the car is not running rich all the time. The deal with our ECU is that since the car has a wide-band A/F from the factory. It does not need MAF corrections until you are in open-loop.
See if you tuner can adjust the MAF correction manually to pull fuel past 3500 RPM and at higher throttle positions.
Then fine-tune the A/F with the injector map. Keep in mind that when you pull MAF the ECU will raise the timming. If it's too high the engine will knock. This is what the timing harness is used for. To pull the timing back down to prevent detonation.
I tried the base-map correction to
See if you tuner can adjust the MAF correction manually to pull fuel past 3500 RPM and at higher throttle positions.
Then fine-tune the A/F with the injector map. Keep in mind that when you pull MAF the ECU will raise the timming. If it's too high the engine will knock. This is what the timing harness is used for. To pull the timing back down to prevent detonation.
I tried the base-map correction to
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well i took it to dyno shop sat. they leaned the fuel a bit more - but they were able to see where it lost power. They figure becasue my CEL is on, that its making it rich on its on. So I then tried the anti- fouler trick... didnt work. Yes i did disconnect the battery and ECU... and what do i see ? ... that damn check engine light. So i gotta make that thing go away to see if that is actually the problem.
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With a code-scanner you'll know exactly what the ECU is detecting. Don't assume it's just cat efficiency. Other bads things throw codes too. You can rent a code-scanner from Autozone -return it and you get a full refund.
Cat-Efficiency code takes about 50 miles or so to come on. If you get a code real fast after the reset -then it's something else.
Cat-Efficiency code takes about 50 miles or so to come on. If you get a code real fast after the reset -then it's something else.