turbo tc, smoke n oil out valve cover breather filter
 

I have a 07 tc turbo charged, never ran more than 9lbs boost. I started my car sat. 2 run 2 the mall and I noticed a little bit of smoke creaping out the hood, not a problem the night before. When I popped my hood I found that my valve cover breather filter was saturated with oil. I then pulled all my plugs thinking the worst that I fried a piston but there was no oil on the plugs ( I was told you usually will have oil on the plug of the affected cylinder ). I then checked my oil lines for clogges, nothing. I put everything back and started the car. I was getting great oil pressure but still had some smoke coming out the filter ( nothing major just a little, and no exhaust smoke ). Next I took the ride out for a spin, without pushing it to hard I got in to it and didn't feel any power loss, another thing I was told to look for but it wasn't a problem. I'm lost I have no idea what may be the prob. other than a head gasket but I see no oil seaping out the block. Does any one have a guess or an answer for me

ur getting blowby

oh and its most lilkely ur piston rings

All cars have blow by. That is why the valve cover breather is routed back into the intake stock so that the exhaust gasses go back into the engine and through the CAT/exhaust before leaving the car. This is normal to have a little smoke come out of the valve cover breather. Also some oil vapor leaves through the valve cover breather and that is why it is saturated with oil. If you leave just a filter on there eventually your engine bay will be covered with oil and grease. This is why everyone runs a catch can to catch that oil vapor.

oil catch tank

yeh a little smoke nd oil is normal but he stated thet he noticed it coming out of the hood,...and for u to notice that then theres quite a bit of smoke....ive never noticed any smoke on mine nd my filter has little oil....but some motors are more loose then others so it either could be normal or u need piston rings......do a compression test and take it from there

before you do just a catch can i would recommend some things...coming from someone who blew the motor caused by blow by BTW that oil that recirculates into the motor causes carbon deposits but more importantly detination

run a air compressor air water seperator between the valvecover and intake manifold,(available at harbor freight) and get a catchcan and open it up and fill it with metal sqeegee pads used for cleaning dishes, this will filter the oil out of the air

this should be done to all turbo Tc IMO cheap insurace, BTW when getting a catchcan, just get a cheap one on ebay, they look good and do the job, dont spend 100+ dollars for a greddy or something cause it may be the same thing ( i bought mine from ZPI for 70 and i found it on ebay for under 20 shipped, i wasen't to happy)
so save yourself the cash

air oil seperator $10
ebay catchcan $20
metal sqeegees $5-8
fittings and hoses $20-200 depending on how nice you go

ill post some pics of my setup in a few weeks, when my motor is completed, welded -10 AN fittings on valve cover and intake, and a hidden catchcan

Any baffled catch can will work.

Not all baffled catch cans are expensive..

+1

i just sold my k2motor one off of ebay for 22

Try to do some compression and leak down test too, it wouldnt hurt.. and no Cels?

yeah its way too much oil and smoke to be blow by, I am hoping its a head gasket or a valve not seating right. Stopping by my shop 2morrow (absolute pro performance) see whats up. Hope not rings, ain't got money to rebuild right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cars should have no blow by. Crank-case ventilation should be created by vacume only. The purpose of the pvc hose routing it to flow air through the valvetrain assembly for cooling/ ventilation. If Toyotas were meant to have blow-by im sure Toyota engineers would have put factory oil-catch cans in place. If you have oil residue in the intake , throttle body, or manifold then the motor is not in perfect condition. Oil catch cans are a band-aide. If you noticed the design of the factory valvecover it has specific baffles to prevent oil from traveling through the hoses. If it makes it past that, there is blow-by. Boosting a car increases the chance for blow-by because of the increased cylinder pressures and on a motor that isn't in good condition it becomes more appartent. That's when an oil catch can comes into play. No exhaust gases should be coming through the breather hoses! Only thing traveling through the hoses should be the SMELL of oil, ever so slight burn-off.

Had motor tested BLOWN RING compression #s were cylinder 1-175 2-112 3-182 4-190. Leak down test #2 was at 70% blow by. Can you say forged internals. Just picked up new block, got it 4 a steal on ebay now just gotta work mad overtime to get my parts together. Gonna do it right forged pistons, rods, gaskets, and while its out might as well put new injectors and maybe turbotoyotas 3" down pipe and equal lenght manifold. 300 dail;y driven horsepower is the goal with maybe high 3's on boost cooler. Thanks for the ideas, gotta look at this as a good sign, good reason 2 finally build a monster motor. Might take a couple of months but pics of the build will come..........................

before you go out and get a set of forged internals.... Try to find out why it happend. Blown ring lands are caused by runing to much boost and not enough fuel (running lean)

I just had one at the shop here with the same problem. After checking codes and seeing the dates, it looked to me that the ECU saw a rich condition at open loop (WOT) and corrected... it may have corrected to much and ran the car lean at the wrong time. The car also might have been over boosted. The day this happend the air temps did creap into the upper 90's.

I have had stock block TC's in the 275hp range on the road for 2 years now with relitivly no issues... So you need to track down WHY it happend... as I have had Supras that have forged internals blow rignlands as well.

Just looking out for ya!!

Tim

I ran lean 4 a while, fuel pump couldn't keep up with injectors. A 255lph pump seemed 2 fix the problem a/f meter at least showed correction. Along with the build fuel upgrade will most likley be needed. I performed the first build with limited exp. Only prob occured was the lean a/f. I was fooled by the "COMPLETE KIT" b-s. Kit claimed no piggyback or ems needed. Ran car 4 6 months with out piggyback then had apxi neo installed with street tune. Damage was probly done in those months before tune. This time its gonna be a shop build and tune @ absolute pro performance in finksburg md.

the tc has some awesome ringlands and shouldn't have blowby.

I'm not so sure about that.. the ringlands will be the first to go on our cars... They're too close to the top of the piston (because it was designed for NA).

Do a compression test and then a leakdown if you find you're losing compression.

he's about to blow his motor....stop now while you're ahead and fix your problem

ok so how about smoke randomly free flowing out of exhaust .. even when parked at some times.. i have a catless 2.5" dp and full 3" dp back exhaust (ptuning) with a muffler in the middle. the smoke isnt so much whitish as it is dark grey or greyish

That's just you running rich if it's a dark exhaust.

thats what i thought but even at idle it will do it sometimes.. to rich im assuming

It's probably a small thing like blowby and if it is blowby than just buy an oil catch can. If it's the headgasket change your oil and look at it and if the oil is a little milky than your headgasket is done. Also you can do a compression test on your motor.

Could be your oil seals in your turbocharger a buddy of mine had that happen to him not too long ago he was told since he ran full synthetic that he did not have to let the car cool down after boosting to shut the engine off i know i know he was stupid and didnt listen to me when i told him to get a Turbo Timer because he is impatient... but none the less he would boost it up his long ___ drive way and then shut it right off. No Cool down process at all. You have to let that turbo cool down to normal operating temp if not the seals will expand during heat and then constrict so tight when the car is just shut off immediately. But thats just a guess here dont quote me it's just my buddy's car was doing that exact thing when his turbo oil seals went

thats probably what happened to me.

QFT!... the rings on the stock pistons are placed extremely high on the piston which does not help in boosting high situations. usually the rings are the very fist thing to go or a bent rod.

leak down, and copression check first, then turn down the boost until you set up a proper vented system to eliminate crank pressure. this is something that the honda world is doing now which is adding extra vents in the VC and routing it to a catch can with a breather on top to fix the issues.

I'm glad I found this thread!

I'm running at 10PSI on my supercharger and recently installed the modifications to my supercharger intake. With those changes I put in the valve cover filter, removing the recirculator hose.

I now see a tiny bit of smoke coming out of my hood, from the hood vent that sits right above the valve cover. I don't see it all the time, usually after high RPM's or agressive acceleration. When I did take apart all the stock piping/hoses for the intake, I did notice a small build up of sticky/dirty oil on the inside of the pipe with the rebreather/valve cover hose.

I'm at 85k miles (45k of those have been supercharged)
Should I start with compression testing to see what to fix/upgrade/reinforce first?

had this same problem and connected both breather valves to the catch can and just put a breather filter on the catch can. Stopped smoking but will every once and awhile after running it hard

If you have smoke coming out of your valve cover breather hose or if smoke comes out of the dip stick tube, when dip stick is pulled out and car is idling, your rings and/or ringlands are shot in at least one cylinder. Do a compression test immediately and start saving for a rebuild. There should never be that much blowby and just installing a oil catch can will not solve your problems; you will still have bad rings. A 2az in good condition will not require a catch can because there should be little to no blow by whatsoever.

As for a turbo timer, it really isn't needed. Yes, there is such thing as oil cooking the seals by letting hot, uncirculated oil sit in the center cartridge but a turbo timer does not do much to help this. If you moniter oil temp with a gauge when you cut the engine off and after the turbo timer has cut off, there is practically no difference in temperature, thus meaning no difference in helping or hurting a turbo'd car with or without a turbo timer. I think import tuner tested this in an old issue as well and proved same results. Any decent turbo shouldn't be affected by the temps we introduce them to in a mildly boosted tc. Oil temps should not get that high.

I dont have smoke coming out of the dipstick and ive run a couple compression tests and everything checked out good... and I'm already saving for a built motor/rebuild ;-)

If your engine is smoking that bad and nothing is coming out the dipstick tube then I would believe you have valve seals going bad. Did you notice any smoke from the exhaust? Check your pvc valve also.

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I had a similar issue and it ended up being multiple cracks on a ringland. Do a leak down test for good measure.