If the MAF was dead, wouldnt it throw my car out of whack when driving it?

 

Maybe if possible, you should take some pictures and post them up. It could help somewhat on pin-pointing the problem, and finding the solution.

 

Good call. Could you please post pics of as much of the install as you can...troubleshooting via internet text is hard to say the least.

 

Also, you said it never stalled when you first installed it...Did anything change from the first time until now. Did you remove it for some reason and then re-installed it? Just wondering why it worked one minute, and now all of a sudden you have a problem.

Kinda like the saying "if it's not broke, don't fix it".

 

the problem is the fuel management system. the blow off valve is recirculated, but for some reason the ecu keeps dumping too much fuel after boost.

it could be a bad blow off valve or a bad unichip. these new engine has very little vaccum line so its really hard to blame it on vaccum leak. i'm hoping to find a cure to this problem after my dyno tune, which is still a few days away.

 

A vacuum leak could come from any of the intake couplers in the system. Anything after the MAF which is essentially every intake pipe after MAF that is allowing air to enter unmetered can casue issues like this...

 

if there were a vaccum leak, the engine would idle higher then normal or very unsteady.

 

here are images of my tC engine bay. see if there are any mistakes on the install. for the boost gauge, i T tap into the vaccum line that run from the turbo to the wastegate.













this bracket will not line up at all. i tried drilling to enlarge the hole, but still not enough. i gave up on it.











Sleeper

 

You're not supposed to tap into the line that goes from the turbo to the wastegate at all.

 

Munch is right, just a direct connection. Wastegate to Compressor.

 

Look at the image again, my blow off valve is T into the throttle body line. My boost gauge is T into the wastegate line for a reason. I know that the psi on the compressor will be different from the psi in the manifold.

 

You're not supposed to T into that line at all is what I'm saying.

 

True I didnt know where that line was running. Thanks for clarifying. IDK if it will help, but did you try running just a direct line?

 

yeah i did ran it direct before. can't tell any difference now that i T into this line.

Munch, what is the reason why i shouldn't T into this line? i think the reason why some people do not T into this line is because they fear that the boost gauge would rob some psi from the wastegate.

I T into this line because i want to know and see the actual psi. Theres about 2 psi drop once it reaches the intake manifold. The psi at the compressor is actually 9-10 psi, unless my eyes are playing tricks on me.

 

I go by what the company that makes the kits says to do. They say not to tap into this line for any reason so I listen to them. They know their kit. I have had zero problems with my kit since I've had it. I did everything by the book. Maybe that's what caused your problem.........maybe not.

 

eventually, i will end up using the brake booster line for the boost gauge. this should be a good post throttle vac/boost source.

 

Try a vac block?

http://www.robearracing.com/pd_golden_eagle_vaccuum.cfm

 

MIAPLAYA, any thoughts on that T tap?


Pictures are worth a 1000 words.

 

thats the best way to do it on these cars...on my xB I used the golden eagle vac block and ran all my vac lines through that...its a lot easier, saves you a lot of headaches and looks good in the engine bay cause all the hoses are run neat

 

Technically you don't ever want to tap into the compressor to wastegate line. The better place would be to tap the BOV signal line not to mention that is the accurate reading of pressure at the manifold.