As advertised the kit is supposed to reach 8 psi. When I had mine dyno'd, it only produced 7.5. I adjusted the screw and nut on top of the wastegate about 3/4 of a turn. I did a few pulls and the boost maxed out at 8 psi. On the dyno pull on 7.5 psi, the AFR was rich. When I say rich, it was from 10.9 at 3000 rpm (4th gear pull) and topped out at 11.8 at 5800 rpms. If what I hear is correct, just shy of 12 AFR is a safe street tune. I am not running any boost controller and am using the tune supplied in the kit via AEM FI/C. I assume the ecu will gradually relearn the curve with the .5 psi difference. On my street pulls, my UEGO was reading 12 on the dot. I also read a thread written by someone saying the BOV's supplied tend to be set a bit loose which results in slower spool than what would be expected from a 2.4L on a .43 trim. I made a minor adjustment on it as well and the fluttering has been reduced significantly. Spool time "seemed" quicker as well. Before adjusting the BOV, at 0 psi at light throttle in 2nd gear, it fluttered 5 or so times. After adjusting, it only flutters 2 or so times. Is there more room for adjustment or should I leave it as is to prevent compressor wear? I don't plan on adding a manual/electronic boost controller because the wastegate comes with a 9 or 10 psi spring (can't remember) and I would be willing to go to 9.5 or so psi and get it re-tuned by Central Florida Turbo later on down the road. If you see anything drastically wrong with these recent adjustments, please leave helpful input! Thanks in advance!

 

The flutter is compressor surge. Do yourself a favor and fitch the raptor bov cause they suck imo.


Those afr's seem dead on what my old tnetics kit was.

 

I would like to go to a atmospheric dump BOV instead of recirc, but there was an issue with tuning and the MAF accounting for that air that was just dumped instead of being recirculated. Frankly, it confuses me a little but if it only means that it'll throw an engine light, I'd do it but I heard it leads to stalling and stumbling...without a proper tune of course.

 

it can be drasticly reduced with tune if not gone.

 

I changed out the Raptor for a Synapse BOV and the drivability was much better. Your AFRS are perfect for a safe tune. My Turbonetics kit gets the same, real rich down low and ramping up toward redline. Remember that you want the richest tune at torque peak which is about 4500 rpm, that's where the car makes the most power and is most in danger of detonation. As torque falls off, you can run a bit more lean in the upper RPMS.

Sounds like the car is running as it was meant to, you can turn the boost up 1 psi if you like, just keep an eye on afr's. I have been running 10psi and afr's top out at 12.5:1 for over a year with no problems.

 

My numbers are almost exactly the same as what you are posting and my tuner believes they are right where they are supposed to be for a street tune

 

All of this is great to hear as far as the AFR's go. I would like to go with a atmospheric dump BOV down the road but for now (being my daily driver) I'll leave it as is. My overall goal is 300 whp so it's not too far out of reach. Thank you all for your responses!

 

My T'netics kit was running about 9psi with the Unichip and about 12.5:1 AFR with no problems. However I'm pretty picky so I ditched the Unichip for an F/IC. I'm still in the process of fine tuning it but it runs like a champ.

Yes the Raptor BOV leaves something to be desired.. but for now it's doing its job. Adjusting the BOV can be tricky.. it only takes small adjustments to make a difference.

 

Yeah I noticed about a half turn on the screw made a big difference. I've heard many horror stories with the uni-chip setup. FI/C is definitely the way to go.

 

really? iv only heard one bad story about the unichip, they installed it and it fried...

 

There's really nothing wrong with the Unichip. It's actually a VERY capable piggy-back.. the only issue is finding a tuner.

 

I personally know 2 people that had their uni-chip work fine for about 6 months, then take a dump completely. Both used a PnP harness. Don't you have to use bluetooth to connect via laptop or something like that?

 

that question is for you B....lmao

 

Not the Unichip that comes with the T'netics kit. The ones you're talking about are purchased separately - usually for an NA application with bolt-ons.

I'm not sure what the PnP harness is - if it could be purchased separately - I know that my Unichip came with a harness and it was all one package from Unichip.

 

the PnP harness is just a pre-fabricated harness where no splicing is necessary, just Plug-n-Play! Hence PnP. Basically my point was that there wasn't any wiring problems with the units goin' down the tube. One setup was the T-Netics kit but one of the first that ever hit the streets so maybe later they resolved that issue and the other was on a buddy's truck. Who know, just bad luck maybe but either way, Uni-Chip just left a bad taste in my mouth after that.

 

I used the same unichip on my WRX for four years with 350whp and never had one single problem. The really old Unichip had a problem with the chips in it, but that was corrected about eight years ago.

As someone said, it' just the lack of tuner that is a prooblem. The unit is fantastic!