Do the turbos from dezod come pre-clocked? Because i'm looking at the install guide and it doesn't mention anything about clocking the turbo so....

 

This may be a dumb question but what do you mean by clocked? I haven't heard that term in my short time as a booster.

 

a retarded monkey could "clock" a turbo. loose the bolts to the compressor housing and rotate to the desired postion.

 

No they are not. I had to clock mine and they are VERY simple to do. There are bolts on both the compressor side and the exhaust side of the turbo that you losen, then rotate the turbo, then retighten.


Joe sent me a very good picture to describe how to do it, just checked my savebox and i don't have it anymore. JOE, post it up man!

 

You can vary the position of the compressor by loosening and rotating. When something is being "clocked" in mechanical terms, it means rotating it and locking it back down (tightening, keying, etc)

 

what is the advantage of this? better contact surface? making sure the inlets/outlets are perfectly lined up? second time i hear about clocking

 

^^ What he said.

 

search button

 

If I had nine hours to search I wouldn't have asked.

 

Every car and every kit is different, clocking is made possible so that a turbo can be ran on many many different types of plumbing set ups

 

plus the oil feed and return always need to be on top and bottom respectivly. Manifolds are as different as night and day from car to car.

 

Yes every turbo from every manufacturer needs to be clocked. It is very simple, and consists of lossening the bolts on the bacl of the comp housing and turbine housing to rotate the assembly as needed, then retightening.

 

If anyone needs the picture, PM me your email address and I'll send it to you. Clocking the turbo is a must as it ensures proper fitment and best cooling abilities.

 

Great attitude.. keep it up!

 

Ok ya it wasn't hard at all the clock the turbo. Is it really necessary to have a diagram, because it seems like as long as you have a good pic of the turbo in the bay correctly you can base the clocking off of the that. Everything is ready to go except tomorrow I'm going to need to swap the injectors, wire my gauges, and plug up the emanage...Then I'll finally be able to fire it up...maybe. My primary o2 was crossthreaded horribly and took almost 45 minutes to get out. the threads are mangled and I don't know if I'll be able to re thread the sensor. Has anyone had good luck with re threading that sensor? I don't think it's a good idea at all to run without my o2. Finally, does my wastegate know to push only 8.5 pounds, since I don't have a manual boost controller? Is it pre set?

 

 

Your wastegate is set based upon the tension of your spring. If your spring is rated for 8lbs (which most of the kits on the market start there). You will boost at no less than 8lbs... As long as everything is setup per the instructions and the wastegate is doing it's job then you won't overboost or creep. You can add a boost controller, whether manual (sits inside your engine bay typically) or electronic (adds a nice piece of eyecandy in the cockpit to control the actuator in the engine bay) which will allow you to turn up/down the boost.. but again the lowest you'll be able to go is 8lbs.

Hope this helps

 

We do sell the springs seperately though so you can run almost any boost level you want.

Note- I replied to the PMs I received for the "clocking" picture.

If anyone else has questions let me know.

 

You got off at least a little better than i did. My PRIMARY O2 sensor was cross threaded and my secondary was just fine. You got off easy with having to only get the $150 sensor. I had to get the $276 sensor


Your tial wastegate will come with an 8lb spring already in the cap ready for it to just be bolted to the manifold and dp. Check your tial box, it should say .6 bar on it.