Ok im posting because this seems to come up quite bit so instead of repating myself imma just do one post and everyone can refer to here. ScionDad if you can add whats needed(your the master at the auto turbos everyone knows it )

1. Turbo Kit. ZPI/Dezod/Tubrbonetics/(whoever else sorry i forget some)
2. Tranny cooler- the one i orderd is a Flex-a-lite TransLife Transmission Coolers. 7.5x15x.75 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku generally from what i was told you dont want one smaller then 7.5x12x.75 i dont know how true that is but thats what i was told.
3.E-Manage. Greddy/Blitz/Apexi one of those that can control and tune your your AFR
4.Gauges- Boost/Oil Pressure/AFR gauge I reccommend the aem uego its a bit pricy but the best you can buy and you can change faces :D
5.Exhuast- At minimum 2.5" no bigger is 3.0". The turbo will not like your stock exhuast
6. Turbo Timer-Greddy HKS. They all do the same function but some will have more features then others. for the love of god dont go the remote start route thats only useful when your staring your car in the morning not in the evening.
7.Gaskets- Copper is your friend remember that. ZPI is in the the process of having copper manifold gaskets produced those will be your friends once they are released.
8. Oil- thanks to killerromances for this one. make sure you change your oil to full syntheic and run at least 91 octane(93 here in tx)
That should cover all the basics you need. Addons I would recommend in no particular order.

1.FMIC
2.ESK
3.Valve Body Upgrade
4. Torque Converter
5. Boost Controller
6. Suspension Upgrade(springs/shocks/front sway bar/rear strut bar.
7. Polyurethane motor mounts
8. Stiffy(if you have to ask.....its an engine damper)
9. Tires

People with a/t turbos(therse like 3 of us) please add on to this. or the peeps who make the kits let me know what to add.

 

do we have to have brakes too?
great write up man, so its a must to buy those 8 things? because i thought i was told if i just bought a turbo kit with a tranny cooler and an emanage i will b fine?


Also peteyd, i was told by another friend that the TRD exhaust isnt enough for the turbo, is this true??? because i thought u said its ok?

 

^^^
The TRD exhaust will do nothing for performance gains. The best results come from a full exhaust.

 

so most likely the new megan exhaust spec?

 

yes...the trd exhuast MAY work only MAY because it is a a lil better desidn then stock one.

 

Photos can be found here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2326730

Step-by-Step how to install an auto transmission oil cooler on the tc.

I used the ultra cooler from Hayes Automotive. This kit sells for about $60 at Pep-Boys. It includes everything you need except the fitting adapter to the

-Car Prep

Get the front of the car on jack stands

Remove bottom engine cover pasanger side
Remove bottom engine cover drivers side
Remove bumper
Remove foam-bumper insert
Remove battery and battery tray from vehicle (battery terminal are 10mm)

Note there are two ways of doing this, you can either stay with the stock radiator cooler and install the aftermarket cooler down-stream from the radiator and then back to the return line of the automatic transmission. The supply side is on the top and the return to the transmission is on the bottom at the oil pan.

I chose to remove the radiator loop and the metal tranny lines going to the radiator loop. This is a preference thing I guess. You will get better cooling if you keep the stock radiator cooler. The down side is that you will need to find a way of routing the hoses to and from the passengers side of the ac condenser and radiator. It is a very tight fit. You may risk cutting the lines on the edge of sheetmetal.

If you want to keep the stock radiator cooler all you need to do is remove the bottom hose from the radiator get a line from here to your cooler and the return line from the cooler goes back to the metal tranny line that used to go to radiator.

It is intersting thing to note that the car has the return line going to the bottom or hotter portion of the radiator. I'm not sure why they chose to go this route. I think this is to warm up the transmission oil in very cold weather.

If you live up north then you want to keep the stock radiator routing and just install the cooler in line. If the oil gets too cold it will gel up and you will damage the tranny. If it gets in the low teens for long periods of time and you do lots of high-way driving you can cool the oil too much. I live in a very hot climate so I am not worried about the oil geling up.

-Instructions for removing the stock steel radiator lines that go to the radiator.

Use a 17mm wrench and lossen the stock tranny cooler fittings at the transmission. The tranny cooler fitiings are attached to the steel lines.

Once that is done use a 19mm wrench to remove the large metal silver adapter.

The bottom adapter has a tee and the top flanged adapter is straight. Swap out the adapters I angled the top down and the down is already pointing up, this made sense because the lines are routed to the appropriate point on the tranny cooler.

Note the stock steel line adapters are metric similar to 3/8 NPT threads with no tapper. They seal by jaming the expanded end of the steel tube to the bottom of the fitting which has a receiver for the fitting.

I was not able to find any fitting that was able to work. I had some adapters that went from metric straight threads to 1/8 NPT on the inside these adapters came in the bag of some gauges that I bought. I had two of them and used teflon tape to intall 1/8 NPT barb fittings that are compatible with the 3/8 hose that came with the kit. Then I used teflon-tape on the adapters and installed them.

The the tranny is ready to accept the 3/8 hose to and from the tranny cooler.


-Mounting the tranny cooler

Disconnect radiator fan plug and ac condenser fan plug

Remove snap-in wire-ties for ac and radiator fan plug harness (push the tabs in with your finger and work them out one-side at a time)

remove coolant hose clamp with a set of pliers and/or channel locks (Leave hose attached)

Remove plastic clip that secures the primary 02 sensor to the coolant hose.

Get a plastic oil pan underneath the car

Remove 10mm bolts that hold the radiator shroud (This piece also holds the fans/motors)

Remove coolant hose, plug hole up with a rag and bend hose upward to prevent the engine from draining all of its coolant into the floor.

Take off the (2) radiator hold-down clamps. They are located on the top and have a rubber grommet that locks it in place. These are 12mm bolts.

Slide fan assembly up, It takes a little time, be patient and wiggle it around a bit.

Once you remove the fan assembly, set it asside.

Tip the radiator back toward the exhaust manifold.

Now you should have access to the back-side of the ac condenser.

Locate the tranny-cooler and place it on the general area that you want it. Take a marker and mark the mounting points for the cooler.

The ac condenser is black the radiator is aluminum in color, do not get the mixed up.

Take the plastic zip-mounts (provided in your tranny-cooler kit) and push them in the front of the ac condenser. Make sure you go between the fins. This is just to mark the location for the zip-mounts. Remove the zip-mounts

Now insert the zip-mount from behind the ac condenser between the radiator and the ac condenser. Put the foam pads on and slide your cooler over the zip mounts.

Insert the female lock tabs on the zip-mount. Make sure they are nice and tight, you don't want the tranny cooler moving at all.

Cut the exposed zip-mount with wire cutters.

slip a hose clamp over the hose and moisten the nipple on the tranny cooler with water and slide the 3/8 hose over the nipple. Do not tighten the hose-clamp yet. Use the uncut hose that was included on your kit. insert both sides of the hose to your tranny cooler. It should look like a big u-piece of hose attached to your cooler.

Remove the plastic cover on the drivers side of the ac condenser coil (there are two plastic pop-rivets holding it in place.

Now route the hose to your tranny measure and cut the u-tube hose.

Insert a hose clamp, moisten the 3/8 hose fitting on the trannmission inlet bottom and slide the hose in.

Measure and cut the remaining hose piece and repeat the last step on the tranmisson outlet port (top side).

Tighten hose clamps until the hose is flush with the outsdide of the clamp.

I wire-tied the hoses together and placed a piece of silcone foam tape between them.

Insert the air filler plate on the drivers side of the ac conenser. Mark the point that the two hoses cross from the front of the ac codenser to the trannmission.

Remove the air filler plate and cut the areas where the hoses cross. Now wrap the hoses with some silicone foam tape to prevent the plastic air plate and/or the side of the ac condenser from rubbing a hole on the hose.

Some small amount of transmission fluid was lost in the install process and the tranny cooler has more capacity than the radiator loop I checked the oil level cold and after warm up I was not below the top tick mark on the dip-stick. So I did not add any extra fluid. I think about 1/2 cup of tranny fluid was drained from the lines and from the radiator loop.

I lost about 1/4 of the fluid on my coolant reservoir. Remeber to use the extra long-life Toyota pink coolant to refill the system. I think the transmission uses Toyota ATF TYPE IV.

Reinstall all parts removed in the order they where removed. Rember the fan assembly needs to installed before the radiator hose is reinstalled.

-Performance

on a 102F Texas summer day with the AC on at full blast the radiator was giving me constant 190F to the engine. The old radiator tranny cooler would of kept the tranny oil above this number.

I used an infrared temperature gun and I'm getting consistant 140-146F tranny-cooler temperature back to the transmission. I can honestly say that I've easily dropped the tranny fluid at least 50 deg, If and only if the tranny oil remained at the same temperature as the radiator outlet temp back to the engine. In reality it's probably more like a 70-90 deg drop. But this would be hard to prove unless someone put an oil temp gauge on the return tranny fluid on a stock a/t TC and then did it again after they installed an automatic tranmission oil cooler.

Note: This extreme test was done with 102F outside air temp. I had my Autotap computer and my MAF actually registered 132F inlet air temp when the car was running on a stop light. Anyone with a non intercooled turbo TC needs to be aware this car runs very hot. The heat soaking of the engine bay impresed me quite a bit. Your running and your sucking in 102-106F air and you stop and the temp shoots up to 130F!

I am happy that I got my chemical intercooler a must for a Texas summer!


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I have a problem with line 6. Please explain to me through PM's or post up here why "for the love of God" people shouldnt use a remote start as a turbo timer...Im very confused here, maybe theres something that I may be missing?

 

wat a great and long diy lol thank you. and yea why cant we use the alarm turbo timer i have the viper 791xv, i thought it would b great use and save money

 

Use it...dont worry, Ive used it on other turbo cars and it works just fine...Im just confused as to why he would make it sound like its the worth thing in the world to do, when in reality, its better than splicing into your factory ECU harness cause I dont believe they make a plug and play unit for the tC. You could not even use the actual remote start function on the vehicle and still use the unit as a turbo timer. All you gotta do is set it up so when you hit the * and Aux buttons on the keypad simultaneously, the car will run for about 2 mins after you pull the keys out of the ignition.

 

wait so your saying i can either have remote start or turbo timer? or i can have both?

and guys please answer what i asked before lol im dying to kno, do i need to upgrade my brakes??? because not alot of power is going to the car so im thinking it doesnt have to???? lol i hope not because with the price of brakes i could buy another turbo lol

 

your remote start has a built in turbo timer function, use it...sorry if I confused you. You don't need an additional turbo timer unless you want it for the bling factor.
As far as the brakes go, you dont need to upgrade to a big brake kit if you dont want to. You should upgrade your brake lines, get some better pads and brake fluid though.

 

my bad vito i ment to put thats my opnion only after #6 but i got busy with customers at the time and looks like forgot too.

 

ok kool, so once i get the turbo i will try and figure out how the turbo timer will work lol, thanks for the help.
oh and peteyd, if you dont mind me asking, where do you work?

 

Time Warner Cable y?

 

no problem buddy...hows the car running lately?

 

Alot better. The ecu was doing some learning im going to get tuned tomorrow. once im tuned and get rid of the richness. all i need is to finish up the gauges and some body work and ill be done fora while.

 

nothing really just wondering because you said you had customers lol

Oh and ERIC TC where did you get that lecan sheet from? i wanna buy that and the gauges like now so i can start that thanks

 

This is useful.
Nice writeup

 

oh hey guys, since you have an auto turbo, could you make a video of a driveby and a video of you inside the car?? please i would really appreciate it.


also do you hear the bov by n e chance when your driving? or is it too silent to hear?

 

BOV you can hear just fine i have the greddy type rs...i beleive zpi used the hks one now.

ill do it some times this month one of my friends has been wanting me to do it so ill have it done soon hopefully.