have you seen this one? they look cool but i dont know about reliability though since i really havent heard of them hahaha

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...4340_5514.html

 

I saw those a while back when I was living in Arizona. I considered the fuel and tach ones for my ATV, but they're expensive...Plus they look a little..bland, lol. I'd want something that's atleast somewhat close to the tC cluster lol.

 

closest to the tc cluster i think would be the greddy 60 mm silver gauges.

 

Carb the fact they don't "flutter" is good. that "flutter" is turo surge. you don't want that. The HKS is so played out. get the Greddy with me. *waves hand* you want the greddy type-RS

 

want to see bad flutter look at the hks type to its suposed to sound like that lol

 

is that so, the fluttering of the hks bov is turbo surge? what i think of the flutter is thats the air coming out to prevent the surge but the air has barely enough pressure to fully open the bov, flutter usually happens when off boost or maybe low boost so not much compressed air needs to come out from the bov.. i could be wrong but i dont think its surge though

 

Turbo surge and a BOV that flutters are 2 different things.

 

I love my HKS

My SSQV is a loud pssh/whistle at higher boost, at low boost it chitters.... and I hear my wastegate doing it's thing..

 

I run Stewart Warner Maximum Performance series gauges and I love them.



And of course...the token UEGO:

 

^ I know someone who uses those in his truck. He said they're great.

 

My buddy uses them in his beetle. he likes them. his logic is "they're good enough to go in airplanes they're good enough for my car".

 

can someone explain the need for a "wideband" uego guage, rather then just a simple air fuel guage when going boost?

i see that AEM has an Air/fuel guage and the widebang uego is much more expensive, is it absolutely necessary?

 

A wide band is just more accurate then a narrow band. which is commonly just called an AF/R gauge. Atleast thats how i've had it explained to me.

 

^ Basically lol.

A wideband will warn you as the problem is occuring. A narrow band will warn you after the problem has occured.

 

^^hahaha^

ok ill definitely get a wideband, i like simple answers!

thanx

 

Def go wideband, it's an extra 100-150 bucks, but a narrow band air fuel gauge is just a total waste of money.

 

AWESOME!

Anyway, I went all AEM...already set on AEM Eugo and Tru Boost so got their oil pressure to match.



I like the Defi as well, and the only bad thing I have to say about the AEM is the digital needles are way fast, so it takes awhile to get tuse to them moving so much, where physical needlse dont' bounce as much.

cool think about the Tru boost (besides the fact that it's a decent boost controller with alarm, shutoff and all that) is that there are no labels, so you can set what you want the max psi to be! So if your only boosting 8psi, you can set the max marker at 10 and it will light up all the way to the end of the gauge! And if your boostint 30psi, you can set it there (30psi max)

about BOV, both a great...the HKS flutter is from low boost...the SSQV is basically a dual stage BOV witha flutter at low boost and full whistle at high boost...

 

Oh crap, all the TT guys are here now, and we're almost done with 5 pages! ****!

 

You make me want AEM gauges meaty

 

Your oil pressure gauge looks like its sticking out funny..It looks like its pointing towards the passenger...