Like what the title says.....right now I have it installed at my O2 sensor position on my S-pipe and don't have my secondary plugged in at the moment. Should I have my Wideband bung welded before my secondary O2 Sensor bung or after? Or it doesn't matter?

 

Anywhere in the s-pipe is fine.

 

Yeah, anywhere on the s-pipe is fine. I think mine is after...or maybe it's before

 

hmmm...if i'm going to have custom exhaust made with a a high flow cat put on the mid-pipe, and the secondary o2 sensor moved to after the cat to prevent the CEL, should i just save the trouble and put the wideband o2 sensor on the existing s-pipe bung? hmmm...sounds like a good idea.

 

sounds good to me. Your gonna need a long cable for that second 02, and I wonder if it's going to freak out cause of how much further back it is.
But why even bother? You should be able to tune that out with engine managment.

 

because i don't want my car to smell like butt, and eventually i'll have to show up for emissions testing, and they'll hook up a sniffer to my tail pipe and fail me. also because some anti-foulers work, and some don't and i don't feel like testing and finding out.

 

Tail pipe? If you go to a newer smog shop, thy just plug the OBD2 sensor in (at least in Vegas) and as long as you got not codes, your good. but yeah, only a cat will help the smell.

Keep us posted on the progress. I'd like to know if that actually works.

 

blah everything is welded and all.......before I got everything welded I Used the scan tool to see what the CEL was and it was my Secondary O2 Sensor and after reconnecting it to the new o2 sensor bung and clearing the code I now have two new codes.....EGR Valve and EVAP. I live in Pennsylvania so What Phil has to do in Vegas to get emissions done is same with me......they plug the OBDII thing into my car and check to see if i have any codes.

 

evap could be something as simple as your gas cap not being screwed on tight enough...try tightening it and reset the codes and see what happens. The only other way I can see you throwing an Evap code is if you converted over to a return line fuel setup which I dont think you have

 

and i guess to reset the code the proper way is with the scan tool?

 

Yes. Autozone should be able to do it for free.
Or you could just disconnect your negative batary terminal for 15 seconds.

 

I tried that battery thing but for some reason the scan tool works better

 

i just got my wideband welded in last night. I went to connect everything and when i was done the gauge only went from 14.7 to --- really fast. Like it was flashing/ not working right. Could it be that i wired it wrong? sry for the tread jack.

 

Which gauge did you get? The aem uego is like the easiest thing to install in my opinion but then i'm not sure of others.

 

i got the aem uego also.

 

You live in MD there isn't a sniffer test on all post 1997 cars or cars that has OBD-II. They hook up to the ODB-II port to read for codes that's it.

 

the aem will got from 14.7 to --- if the car is off. if it is on it will fluctuate between 13.9-15.0 at times on stock ecu at idle. then when you are driving and you let off the gas while the clutch is still in (don't know if this is true for the autos though) it will go to --- because the stock ecu cuts off all fuel to the engine (De-acceleration Fuel Cut OFF or DFCO)

when driving, make sure its either around 14.7 or a lower number, otherwise its way too lean) 14.7 is too lean when under boost too, so keep that in mind or get the Dezod Black Box to fix it, or a standalone)