ZPI Stage 0 Dyno video
Originally Posted by jrv2000
Well the only reason that you have to run a higher octane with a turbo is to prevent pre detonation due to the higher temperatures.
Originally Posted by jrv2000
I was thinking that if you could lower the temperatures with a FMIC, you wouldn't have to worry about knocking, and could run regular, which would be really cool since I dont really want to pay premium prices.
You may post on my oldman turbo build up thread if you want more information on running boost on cheap fuel. I’m a skin flint.
I will add that what I’m doing is no condoned nor supported by ZPI, as they have more common sense then I…
Originally Posted by oldman
I’ve run low boost turbo on my the oldlady’s last ride: a 2001 Volvo 1.9 turbo 9.0 CR about 200 BHP at 8 to 10PSI. Via water injection. The intercooler does help in this equation by letting me LOWER boost slightly and still have the same charge volume due to denser cooler air and slightly lower cylinder pressure. I should add since the temps delta are very low at normal usage the intercooler has to be MASSIVE with very long tube to get the charge close to ambient.
You may post on my oldman turbo build up thread if you want more information on running boost on cheap fuel. I’m a skin flint.
You may post on my oldman turbo build up thread if you want more information on running boost on cheap fuel. I’m a skin flint.
1. Were you able to run regular on the Volvo at that 8-10 PSI? If so, it seems to me that running 6 PSI with your same Volvo setup is feasible.
2. How does the water injection work? Do you have to be constantly spraying to maintain the same boost? If so how much water is used/how much water must you carry around with you?
3. Can you link me to your turbo build up thread?
oldman, what would be the proper procedure to break-in a new turbo? i've been to a few shops here in orlando. they recommend that i do not go full throttle(or drive like an ___) for the first 1K miles after the install. what are your recommendations? thanks
Originally Posted by ZPIracing
The A/f were 11.2 all the way across the range. This car was on the dyno yesterday with 80degrees heat and a lot of humidity.
the Stage o kit comes with a downpipe and a S-pipe if you preorder. After the preorder the S-pipe will be extra. This car was dynoed with out a s-pipe to show what the car can do when everythign else is stock.
We have no plans on being Carb legal.
the Stage o kit comes with a downpipe and a S-pipe if you preorder. After the preorder the S-pipe will be extra. This car was dynoed with out a s-pipe to show what the car can do when everythign else is stock.
We have no plans on being Carb legal.
I think you both right. Increased pressure due to compression and the centrifugal turbo will contribute to higher temperature, which in turn may trigger pre detonation. Of course, the weather play a role here too. Here in CA we only have 91, hopefully, that will do it.
Btw, 11.2 A/f seems a little bit rich, or am I wrong? Could somebody enlighten me what is the perfect A/F that the car need to maintain?
I wonder if emanage may give us a better results.
Btw, 11.2 A/f seems a little bit rich, or am I wrong? Could somebody enlighten me what is the perfect A/F that the car need to maintain?
I wonder if emanage may give us a better results.
We used what we have locally. We do not have our dyno yet and the dynojet is farther away.
11.2 is a bit rich but it is safe. We would rather suffer a little power and be safe than push the envelope to make a little more power. We are happy with the way the car is running.
11.2 is a bit rich but it is safe. We would rather suffer a little power and be safe than push the envelope to make a little more power. We are happy with the way the car is running.
Originally Posted by jrv2000
Couple of questions.....
1. Were you able to run regular on the Volvo at that 8-10 PSI? If so, it seems to me that running 6 PSI with your same Volvo setup is feasible.
1. Were you able to run regular on the Volvo at that 8-10 PSI? If so, it seems to me that running 6 PSI with your same Volvo setup is feasible.
Originally Posted by jrv2000
2. How does the water injection work? Do you have to be constantly spraying to maintain the same boost? If so how much water is used/how much water must you carry around with you?
3. Can you link me to your turbo build up thread?
3. Can you link me to your turbo build up thread?
I should also note that no only weather but how the car is used will determine what is the minimum octane that can be run. A car that is rev through the gears, driver only 5 speed is going to take a lot less octane then somebody lugging a trailer up the Rockies in high gear with a car load of people. Pre-ignition is far more sensitive to engine load then to normal ambient temps and humidity, especially with water injection already cooling and slowing the flame front. My Volvo had NO audible pinging in any cheap gas scenario.
the ZPI kit is definitly nice. Love the sound and love the numbers... But here in cali if you are driving and a cop hears or sees when those numbers on the street. yer screwed. Better safe than sorry. If i didn't live in cali i'd be all over this kit.
right, so get the stage zero, it will be grandma Camry silent just a little turbo woosh, no cop calling intercooler, just smack down under the hood on demand. Think of it as a safety device... don't leave home without one.
yah. I think i have a lil more smarts than to go all the way up to redline next to a cop. But around here they are pretty sneaky... especially the ones on two wheels
The zpi kit sounded very impressive. Even when he was just revving the engine and I heard the turbo spool up it was all ear to ear.
Just think of that RSX-S being SPANKED from that stock tC, think of the glorious sound of the turbo woosh under the command of your right foot. It is all machismo
when you hear the GF talk about the new “secret weapon” under the hood… something like Gwen," I just here this woosh and I get pushed back into the seat, Tim he is just like speed racer and I feel like Trixie. Not like that other looser I was dating with a fart pipe that was slower then stock"... I serious here, chicks dig guys that know their cars and are packing under the hood, not somebody trolling in mom’s Accord or some poser with a large TIP bolted to a stock tC….
Lol oldman you are a character hehe. There is a civic si (or should i say "was"?" down the street from me. Just added a bolt on turbo w/ a fmic and he said he's only running 210 whp... I love the way the 2az responds to mods. Not sure how much boost he was running, but 6.5 psi isn't by far a lot of boost and zpi is getting a good 35 whp over the civic (he didn't tell me his torque numbers but i am sure the zpi is far better than his numbers). Why should i say "was" you ask? Cause on the civic's maiden voyage with its new wheels and added power. The fuktards he got to put on the WHEELS, yes i said "wheels" folks, Not turbo kit... not intercooler.. WHEELS, didn't tighten his lugs no where near tight enough and his passenger side front wheel flew off and he pretty much totalled his new toy he just spend 3.5 grand on. Now the civic does the 1/4 just a lil bit slower than my uncles tow truck... (the truck crosses the line b4 the actual civic does)
well not the Toyota OEM engine warranty. stage 0 should be safe enough IMO. Come a point to ask if your a player or a poser....
I wanted a warranty, but looks like that's a fools wait. I went with ZPI, cause I could have far more power, far sooner for far cheaper, never had a warranty on my other rides to speak of, not a powertrain warranty that is. I figure 6 hours on and if I needed to 6 hours off, this kit should NOT touch any stock part...
I wanted a warranty, but looks like that's a fools wait. I went with ZPI, cause I could have far more power, far sooner for far cheaper, never had a warranty on my other rides to speak of, not a powertrain warranty that is. I figure 6 hours on and if I needed to 6 hours off, this kit should NOT touch any stock part...
2 questions....
will the stage 0 be safe on the automatic transmission? 250whp seems like a lot for the stock tranny to hold, or should we wait out for an auto tranny upgrade kit?
and the second question...
theres no tuning at all that needs to be done with the ECU? i know you said everything is stock, but is the stock ECU tuned at all?
thanks for everything
will the stage 0 be safe on the automatic transmission? 250whp seems like a lot for the stock tranny to hold, or should we wait out for an auto tranny upgrade kit?
and the second question...
theres no tuning at all that needs to be done with the ECU? i know you said everything is stock, but is the stock ECU tuned at all?
thanks for everything







