My car went down about a month and a half ago. Oil spraying all over the engine block below the turbo, oil going into the intake pipe going to my engine. I also had a crack in my manifold. This all happened and talked to kenny. He sent me a new turbo first saying that the oil seals were bad on the turbo. I then noticed the crack in the manifold, i sent that back and got it re-welded by kenny. I got a new turbo, the manifold fixed, and put everything back on. SAME PROBLEM! I put everything back on, retighned to double check. Cranked the engine (taking the fuse out), letting it lube up, then after 4 or 5 trys, put the fuse back in, and started it up. The car barely started and trying to stay alive. I would have to give very little gas to keep it alive and even then the throttle was not responding good at all. Engine was still smoking, i figured it was some oil left on the block i couldn't clean off. I turned off the car, unplugged the battery, waited about five minutes, connected the battery and started the car. The car started better but was not running right at all. Still smoking and oil still spraying. The only thing i can say is that it is the return line itself, or the oil return flange. I did not have a gasket for it so had to go to Advance auto parts, and make my own and also got some sealant for it. I did recieve a new return line but it is wider than my first one and really loose on the flange, im guessing its not the right size sent to me so i used the same one i had. It was about 2 in the morning and about 45 degrees outside (im guessing) and called it a night. My dad is coming to pick me up to take me home for the holidays because my car is still down unless some miracle happens and get it fixed. Im going to give another crack at it when my dad does get here for his help, and hope something good happens. If anyone has any ideas i could use some help right now, i really want my car back and really tired of depending on others for rides.....NEED HELP PLEASE!

 

What part of tx are you in??? send and email to SGP racing they are located in houston they maybe able to help you out...they do wonders on turbos.

 

First....if you cap the oil pan line and the vacuum taps...you can have your stock system back on within 2 hours. The turbo lifts out in 1 piece. That is if you kept the old exhaust manifold and intake.

You really need to find out where the oil is spraying from. Can you clean up all the oil and take some pics for us? Top, bottom, oil lines, charge pipe, etc. Nice big pics.
Where is the oil spraying from?

 

Have you tried ZPI/Kenny? I know others have been able to give him a ring on days off for urgent help

 

If your oil return line is loose like that, you will definatly have some leaks. You need to make sure you have at least a dash 10 line for the return side as well. Otherwise, you'll end up with blown seals in the turbo again. Aren't you the second one to have seal problems or did I hear that about you in another thread?

Charles

 

I think its all in the EVO III GT Turbo, Buy a Real MHI Evo B16g, that knock off turbo is junk IMO. Its a cheap turbo, but spend the money and get a real one.

My 2 cents.

 

I am the same guy with the blown seals. What do you mean by having a dash 10 line?? The thing is not loose, its tight as hell, Ill have more info tomorrow, going back at it at 8 in the morning.

 

Dash 10 line is the size of the oil line. I think it's equivalent to 5/8 but I could be wrong. Make sure there are no dips or kinks in the oil return line also.

 

This was what I was referring to. I thought you had the second one on there and it was to loose. If the line is to small, or if you have to much gasket maker on the flanges, and you accidentally block the drain hole, then you can cause a backup and result in blow turbo seals. Especially since only one side of the oiling system is pressurized.

Charles

 

The seals on the turbo you sent us did not look that bad. We sent you another turbo just for good service.
If there is oil spraying we need to know where it is coming from. We can't fix want we can't see.

I do not think that the oil leak is related to the car not wanting to run. It sounds as if you have a vacum leak some where. Check the o ring in the BOV this has been a common over looked piece.

We changed to -12 oil lines we must have sent you a new one line. We still have -10 line if you need a new one give us a call.

Check the oil fitting at the head. This is pressurized it can cause a spraying if not tightened correctly.

We are open tomorrow give me a call i will be there at 10

-Kenny

 

i had idling problems when i installed, in fact i still have some. when i first installed, i used silicon hosing because i thought the blue would cool. not a good idea. the hoses are too malleable and crimp when in vacuum. switch out to rubber with steel braided and the idling improves so much. so now my idle is ok, but fluctuates some when idle, and stalls if i dont downshift into first. hopefully ZPI's drilled antifoulers will take care of the CEL, which might also be affecting the idle. does anyone know if CELs affect idle? anyway, thats what i can tell you about the idle and it running more properly.

 

You know I think ScionDad was experiencing this and he switched to a colder plug and everything was fine after that. Give that a try.

 

Yeah, that helped BIG TIME....but I think it also helps we have an automatic.

I hear of this issue on the manual shifts (more noticeable). This is due to the BOV being atmospheric and not recirculated. When the throttle plate closes from boost, the MAF already seen the airflow and the ECU adjusted for the fuel to expect that air...well the air never shows up and pig rich happens....car stalls.

 

That's a hard trade off:
Have better idle with recirculating Blow Off Valve or Cool sounding Whoopshhhhhhhhh!

 

What about one of those dual-vent BOV's? The ones that vent to atmosphere AND recirc. Sounds like the best of both worlds.

 

WE are not sure the problem is that the idling problem is not consistent acorss the board. We have customers that have the problem and customers that do not. We have seen a lot of the problem is with the BOV gasket not being installed correctly. There is defintly a potential issue with the car under load and the throwing it in neutral. This is not always able to be duplicated though. We are looking into other options.

 

Yeah, I've looked for something along those lines...but the only thing I have found is this guy and it's near $400. You can adjust it....not the most attrective thing either, but a cool idea.

http://www.lltek.com/DBOV_turbo_divertor_blowoff.htm

 

Well me and my dad went at it again and re-did everything with turbo. Took it off, put the oil line back on, looked good then got a mirror had the car idle and saw oil dripping out of the clamp that holds the turbo together. We call kenny and tells us there is a pin we should remove that might not be able to let the turbo align right. Took it out after taking the turbo apart, put it back on, same problem. Called kenny back said there is another pin on the other side that we could take out to help it align. This one looked like it could of been the problem but no luck, still spraying oil. Called kenny back, he says the oil seals probably went bad again and now i have to send it off to the company of the turbos in houston which is 3 hours away from me. It has been a frustrating time with my car, the car ran good for a while the first time installed and didn't remove any kind of pins or anything. It had nothing to do with the return line, it runs straight to turbo, no kinks or anything. The gaskets on the wastegate also blew off immediately and will have to buy new ones again. I read in another thread that the zpi sells copper ones that will never go bad or something. Anyways, i reall want my car back, even if it is stock, just need something to drive. It is just a lack of tools and the fact my stock parts are at home in Corpus Christi. I really want to keep my car turbo because i have had a sample of it already, but so many are telling me to get rid of it and worry about the car because its brand new. I am just hoping this next time with the rebuilt turbo that the car is back to normal and ill be posting some videos and pics and get back to more mods. I have a wideband and emanage sitting in my room wanting to be put on but no car to drive. Sciondad, did you do any adjustments to your turbo when you put it on, any advice you can give me?? you got the kit running good and just need some help.

 

Wow

 

man if i were you taking that turbo off so many times i would put it back to stock and start it up if it runs good then you know its turbo set up if not you have internal issues and start looking for a motor