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23" LCD in the Hatch

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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 06:57 PM
  #21  
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Due to the shallow depth, it looks like you may have to hinge the actuator too.
Old Jul 29, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #22  
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Alright so I cut out the mdf cover for the hatch including the hole for the tv. I won't need any supports because of the existing supports so it works out well. I will upload pics tonight, I just have to figure out how exactly to do the actuator with what length, should be interesting, again if anyone has actuator experience please let me know. Thanks
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 04:20 AM
  #23  
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Default Re: 23" LCD in the Hatch

Throw an 'L' link in there to make the assembly more low profile. Just remember to think of the linkage like a see-saw, you want to make sure the actuator gets a long enough lever on it's side of the fulcrum to allow it to easily flip up the lcd.

Something like this:


Also a common brand for linear actuators like this is Autoloc. If you don't like their models, call shops that make conversion vehicles for people in wheelchairs, they use actuators like these all the time and can probably give you an idea on load and reliability.
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 04:22 AM
  #24  
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^^^ oh, and the little circles there are pivot points. The actuator in the above diagram cannot be mounted totally stationary, the far right side must be allowed to swivel so it doesnt bind.
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 05:47 AM
  #25  
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attach cables to the hatch so it opens w/ the hatch.
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 10:32 PM
  #26  
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Wow could you show a picture of the tv in the up position so i get a better idea? Where would this L hook into the tv at? What kind of metal and where can i get those pivot joints?
Old Jul 31, 2007 | 07:48 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DeFinity
Wow could you show a picture of the tv in the up position so i get a better idea? Where would this L hook into the tv at? What kind of metal and where can i get those pivot joints?
It'd probably be easiest to make a thin frame around the LCD which you could attach the 'L' shaped bits to. Then make a box/frame to mount the actuator and the fulcrum points to. The moving parts could just be cut out of a flat piece of 1/8" thick steel or aluminum depending on whats easier for you. The box would be fine in 1/2" mdf.

You should fab up a fake prototype using cardboard if you need a better idea of how this will work, easier than wasting wood and metal.
Old Jul 31, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #28  
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Hmmm, i'm gonna try it another way to try the low profile and if it doesn't work it doesn't work. Thanks for the help.
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 01:41 AM
  #29  
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I'm thinking of using a gas strut for now because i don't feel like buying the actuator and mounts right now. Does anyone know what size power verter should i use? Doesn anyone know?
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 01:58 AM
  #30  
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a gas strut?

uh...... thats gonna whip that tv up so fast its gonna break it. do it right the first time and get an actuator
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 02:36 AM
  #31  
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a gas spring thing. That holds the hatch up. It's just so i can get it all installed and working. I just have to figure out what power inverter to get because i don't know how much draw my lcd has.
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 03:32 AM
  #32  
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yeah i know.... thats not smart it wont work the way you want
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:07 AM
  #33  
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Anyone know what size power inverter?
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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how many watts does the tv use? should say on the back then just get one with say 100-200 more to be easy on the inverter. Just my opinion though.

Take my 32 inch dell for example. Uses 120v at 2.5amp so the following works. Should give you a ball park to figure yours out and what you would need.

To Find Watts

1. When Volts and Amperes are Known

POWER (WATTS) = VOLTS x AMPERES

*

We have a small server with a nameplate shows 2.5 amps. Given a normal 120 Volt, 60 hz power source and the ampere reading from equipment, make the following calculation:

POWER (WATTS) = 120 * 2.5 ANSWER: 300 WATTS
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:30 AM
  #35  
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My tv says power input 100-240 is that what i'm look at?
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:35 AM
  #36  
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yeah, 100 (120v) is what you use, now how many amps does it require? usually like 2.5a or 3a
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:45 AM
  #37  
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it says 1.6-0.8 A on the back.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:58 AM
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so 100v * 1.6a = 160watts So if your not going to be using other accessories I would get a 300watt one if they make or sell them in your area. They aren't cheap though. http://www.walmart.com/search/search...e=Find&ic=24_0
I think the whistler 400 should work just fine for what you need. Shop around though and check other stores.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 02:59 AM
  #39  
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Well i need to run an xbox 360 also.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 03:01 AM
  #40  
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it says 12V dc 16.5 V



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