IMAC_TC_NY

Hey, just wondering the best way to replace the stock tweeters. I took apart my door and drilled out the rivets. I disconnected the tweeter from the bracket but I'm not sure if drilling through the bracket will secure the replacement tweeter good. I'm putting in Alpine SPR-17LS comps if that helps. Anyone have any pics of tweeters on stock brackets?

Any suggestions on what kind of amp I should use with these and Alpine Type-R SPR-17LP that are in already. The speakers are 70 and 50 watts RMS.

Yanki01

i used the bracket for my old Alpine tweets when i had my Alpine comps in there but i cant remember how i did it. Worked pretty good, just like stock. i dont have pics tho, sorry. Are you running new wire from the amp to the comps or are you using the original wires? I found out that it was kinda hard since the stock tweets have the xover built in. So i ran new wire straight from the amp to the xover, then xover to the speakers.

i think this amp will work pretty good. If you only running comps itself. im sure you can find it cheaper on ebay or something?
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/product...model=MRP-F250

IMAC_TC_NY

Right now I just tested connecting to one set of the pink & purple wires that ran to the stock tweet to the crossover. It sounds ok. I just think its not gonna give the full power of the speakers from the stock hu.

I was thinking of using the angled mounting that came with the alpines cause the stock tweets sounded like they just shot out in front of you but didn't do a whole lot.

I've been thinking of getting the MRP-F250, just didn't know if that would be enough to make a big difference. This is the first system I'm doing with amps at all so I'm not so sure about how many watts needed from amp compared to the rms and max of the speakers.

Yanki01

*ALWAYS* go with the RMS wattage. *NEVER* go with the MAX.

the ALPINE MRP-F450 might be a better one also!

IMAC_TC_NY

I wasn't thinking max at all. I figure 40 watts is better than whatevers coming from the hu. I just want the speakers loud enough that I can hear vocals without the sub drowning them out.

deathbyc4

i used the stock bracket for my tweets for the audiobahn components. made a square block that fit inside the two tabs and drilled a hole through it for mounting it to the bracket (wire tie if i remember corectly). then double stick or screw dow nthe tweet. factory look, with aftermarket sound!!

IMAC_TC_NY

Ok. So I'm gonna see how the tweets go in this weekend. One more question for everyone. If I do go and add a 4 channel amp to the speakers, what's the best way to connect it(power/ground) with the amp from my sub? I believe it's ok to use the same power as long as the amps have separate grounds.

Yanki01

do you have an aftermarket HU?

IMAC_TC_NY

Still using the stock hu.

tweetertc

well... you are gonna need a distribution black for your power... that way it splits the wiring without riggin it in there... PLEASE do not splice wiring... its unsafe...

then ground them... i would go with seperate grounds...and then yeah... you should be alld good...

IMAC_TC_NY

Ok. So my plan right now is:
- install door components
- sound deadening so I can hear my new speakers when driving on the hwy
- 4 channel amp, distribution block, replace stock wiring
- when budget allows replace hu with touchscreen dvd/navi

One more question on the system though. If you have 800watt rms system do you need a cap or will the tc power be sufficient?