rocketgyrl

"Block" = engine metal.

The alternator should only have one large gauge wire terminal, positive. The negative IS the metal of the casing and engine block/mounting bracket.

Matt put a new chassis connection under the battery tray, on the frame.

Zebman

Well I knew that, but i'd prefer to use where the factory connection is. Is it the connection under the plastic valve cover, above the alternator?

If there's only one terminal on the alt, then why are there two wires coming off of it? I'd get pictures and circle what i'm referring to, but the car is outside in the dark right now.

I didn't have a problem with the lights dimming before I tuned my sub. But I went to a piece of desolate farmland and tuned it, and now it dims really bad on almost any hit.

Neothin

here's my big 3 install

Zebman

Haha, damn. You've got quite the tangle in those pictures.

That explains the alternator pole. Is the chassis ground the bolt in the top picture near the fuse box? And for the block connection, is that the silver wire near the engine oil cap?

Another question, are battery clamps made specifically for the positve or negative post? I have one that I didn't end up using, and would use it for the negative post connections if I could.

Neothin

yes, yes.

i sanded off all the paint ont he chassis + engine block connection points until they were shiny.

the wiring mess on the battery is now fixed, i've got an optima w/ sideposts so it doesnt look as bad.

Zebman

Ok, i'm pretty sure I can do this now. That battery clamp will come in handy.

jwaj2002

ok I know I don't drive a tc, but a few people round here do, and I know I need to upgrade my wires, what guage would yall suggest?

rocketgyrl

>4ga.

jwaj2002

aight, can I get pics of where yall did yours? (actually where the ends are mounted on the block and chassis) so that when I get my 4ga, I can do everyone's

Neothin

ummm... look 6 posts above you?

jwaj2002

Neothin show me where the chassis is grounded at, hard to see with that bunch of grey and blue wires, I see that your alt is easy to get to, I haven't tried finding mine

Neothin

first picture bud

jwaj2002

the bolt above the fuse cover?

Neothin

yessir

jwaj2002

aight, thanks man, now I just gotta buy a spool

Zebman

I don't have the money for 0awg right now. Would 4awg work well with a stock alternator and only 1000 watts being used for the stereo?

Plus, that battery terminal is marked as positive. Would it be bad to use it on my negative terminal? I mean, conductive metal is conductive metal, I don't see how it could hurt.

nodsetse

^ Ya Zebman, 4 guage will be fine. Doesn't matter what your terminals have written on them, provided you never let positive & negative touch.

Zebman

Well, I got it all done. The terminals were different sizes, so the clamp was too big for the negative terminal. I'll be buying a negative specific clamp soon.

As for dimming, it was greatly diminished, but it's still there. I'm hoping that with the alternator turning above idle rpms, the dimming won't be there while i'm driving.

nodsetse

^ That's exactly right, once over 2k RPM it should be fine. Autosound competitors sometimes set their idle around that so there's no lack of power while judging is in progress, with the car idling.