Hey guys I just had a question for yall.

Currently i'm running two Kicker CVR's at 2 ohms to an Alpine 800W amp.

But I'm looking to upgrade.

What i want are the Kicker CVX subs.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/rid/12328

The question I have is, it says 4 ohm, but since it's a dual voice coil, is it possible to wire it up to 2 ohm? Would that damage it at all? I'm going to be using an Alpine 1000w amp, which is 1000W x1 @ 2ohm and 600wx1 @4ohm. I want two CVXs. Here's a link to the amp: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1199494646259

Appreciate the help guys!
-nick

 

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp

You can wire two DVC 4ohm subs in either 1ohm or 4ohms.

 

Nice link, ver yinformative!
Two other questions now.
Is Power Acoustik a good brand?
and what if I get 2 12" CVXs, with 750w rms each. (1400 total), then use an amp that puts out 1200rms @ 4ohms, Will I be underpowering it too much?

 

I would get an amp that outputs more than that. I would much rather overpower an amp than underpower it as long as it doesn't kill the sub. Haven't used Power Acoustik, so I won't try to weigh in on their quality.

 

Couple quick tidbits.

1. If you plan on running that much power on your stock electrical system, your probably going to run into problems. Once you get over around 1krms total, then you need to start beefing up your electrical system. First step = HO Alt.

2. Why would you run those subs at 4 ohms? Many many more options available if you wired them to 1 ohm. Most amps are 1 ohm stable. Would be expensive to find an amp that does 1200 @ 4 ohm. Unless of course the amp has a regulated power supply.....ie, Phoenix Gold Xenon series, Jl Audio Slash Series,

 

Power Acoustic is known as a 'budget' brand, and imo no, not really a "good" brand.

No, giving 1200w to a pair of subs rated at 750w each won't be "underpowering it too much", it'll be fine.

Don't worry about what YanksFan stated above, your stock electrical system will be ok. Music is dynamic, and the demands the audio system makes on the electrical system are too. If you had to generate >1000w constantly for a long period of time, then there might be cause for concern, but this is not the case. Just because a person has an amp rated at >1000w output, that doesn't mean it's constantly generating that kind of power, and I assure you, it won't be.

 

I know what your saying Nodsetse. Assuming he has decent mids, hes looking at close to 1400rms-1500rms on stock electrical. I personally wouldn't want to run that much on my stock electrical but what do I know.

 

I posted in another thread also, I am currently running a Sundown SAZ1500 and a ZAPCO DC1000.4, running it full tilt I will drop the voltage to 13.0, mind you that this is stock electrical with original battery. I would assume when I do have the money to get another battery (Kinetik1800), the voltage drop won't be so bad.
Now running a burp for 3 seconds that is a different story.

 

so what you're saying is that you don't have too many problems unless you're playing it loud?

I have a 2 Farad capacitor, which seems to help a lot! 6K HIDs, and running 800w rms with no problems. the only problem I have is I tend to play my music louder than I should, blowing speakers! GAH Thank god for the 2 year replacement plan!

 

^ You'd have to be playing it loud, for a long time, using sine waves, not music. Even though the music may be loud, it's still dynamic in nature. There are loud peaks, but also quiet parts, and there's a HUGE difference in the power demands for each. If I'm listening at an average level of 90dB, that might only require 2 watts total. However, the peaks might be as high as 108dB, which would require 128 watts. The difference is known as "dynamic range", and the amount will differ from song to song.

The point is, how often do those peaks occur, and what is their duration? It doesn't matter, because the average level is 90dB (in this example), so as long as the amp can produce the 128w when required for those dynamic peaks, it's all good, because it doesn't need to put out a constant 128w.

This example scales the same for >1000w amps powering subs. You're not using 1,000w constantly (avg might be <100w, ), so your electrical system isn't being taxed to the point many people appear to think.

Additionally, I see so many people here (who claim to be knowledgeable) saying "caps are no good, get another battery instead", but I disagree. The only advantage to adding a second battery is to extend your engine-off listening time, nothing more. If you never listen long enough to drain your battery, then you don't need to add another one. If you want to ensure there's some immediate reserve power available to your amps because their current demands during musical peaks exceed what the electrical system can provide, then add a large cap very close to the amp. If your audio system's demands are more than the electrical system can keep up with, then you'll need a higher output alternator (one that's better than stock at idle speeds too, not just at higher rpms), no battery or cap will fix the issue.

 

Nodsetse, in your opinion, how much power can you run safely on stock electrical?

 

dont thye make them in dual 2 ohms too?

 

That entirely depends on the "duty cycle" and current demands of the specific audio system in question. You might install a system that peaks at 2000w and have issues, where I might put one in that does 5000w RMS, yet have no problems. If I'm listening to mellow jazz at 90dB average, but you're trying to average 150dB over 30 seconds during an SPL competition, our demands on the electrical system are going to be very different, regardless of the max wattage either system is capable of.

There are also other considerations. What if it's daytime, ~75 degrees out so AC isn't needed and you're just crusing on the highway? In that scenario, there's a lot of electrical system capacity for an upgraded audio system. Compare that situation to the night (headlights on) when it's hot out (AC is on) and you're in town (low RPM and lots of idle time), where there's a lot less amperage available to the audio system from your alternator.

I can't answer your question with a simple answer, because it depends on how the system is used, but I hope these examples help explain, such that people might understand.

 

I asked a pretty broad question looking back lol.

I understand what your saying.

 

So now im really confused.

I'm looking at a single L5 15" http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

which has Dual 2 ohm voice coils.

but The12Volt says I can only wire this up to 1 ohm or 4 ohm. at 4 ohm my amp only makes 500watts.

I want my full 800 watts. So it says I can wire up a 4ohm speaker to do 2 ohms. What kind of speaker do I need? Will I be able to wire up the Kicker to 2ohms? I just need a speaker that does 800 watts at 4ohms? or 2 ohms? I'm confuseded....

 

You need a Dual 4 ohm sub or another configuration that will yield 2ohms of resistance. Or just wire your amp to 1ohm (if it's 1ohm stable) and pound away :D

 

no my amp isn't 1 ohm stable But thanks much for the help.

sold my old subs, now I Think i might just keep the old amp and run a single (more powerful) sub.

 

That's what I'm going for. Smaller box, more power, more air movement.