Car Alarm Install Question
I've got a few questions about an alarm install. The alarm: K9 Sombra
First, I have two door inputs ( + and - ) and they are pin switches according to my manual.
I'm looking at this tutorial:
http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/in...showtopic=2908
It states that:
I'm not exactly sure what this means, or how / where to connect these two door wires.
Second Question:
I think the tC uses a "Negative or Positive System", more specifically, the negative system. So i have six output wires from the alarm brain, three for unlock, three for lock.
Because I have a negative system, I only need to use two wires for lock, and two for unlock. One of each is wired to 12v+ constant, and the other two are tapped into the correct wires in the driver and passenger kick panels.
Is this all correct so far?
AND,
according the the12volt.com,
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/....asp~TID~53560
the two are located:
I count pins starting at the top left, correct? And find them from there? And wire these two to the two remaining wires?
Thanks!
Brett
First, I have two door inputs ( + and - ) and they are pin switches according to my manual.
I'm looking at this tutorial:
http://www.yoursciontc.com/forums/in...showtopic=2908
It states that:
For door trigger, I went directly to the door pins and diode isolated them. The 727T comes with diodes for light flash connections in european cars (seperated left and right). Due to the fact that Scion uses negative trigger door pins, this diode set up works as well.
Second Question:
I think the tC uses a "Negative or Positive System", more specifically, the negative system. So i have six output wires from the alarm brain, three for unlock, three for lock.
Because I have a negative system, I only need to use two wires for lock, and two for unlock. One of each is wired to 12v+ constant, and the other two are tapped into the correct wires in the driver and passenger kick panels.
Is this all correct so far?
AND,
according the the12volt.com,
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/....asp~TID~53560
the two are located:
Power Lock green to blue - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 15
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock purple to pink (double pulse) - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 14
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Power Unlock purple to pink (double pulse) - driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 14
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Thanks!
Brett
here the cables with theirs colors and what they are. there might be more cause of the systems i use but you should be able to get the cables you need from this.
Year(s): 2005-2007 Make(s): Toyota Model(s): TC As Of: 08/12/04
12 Volt (+) 12ga. Red or 16ga. White at ignition harness
Ignition 1 12ga. Blue at same
Ignition 2 16ga. Yellow at same
Ignition 3
Accessory 1 16ga. Gray at same
Accessory 2
Starter 12ga. Black or 16ga. Green, both must be used for remote start
Horn 18ga. White (-) at fuse box, right corner, second connector from the top or at back of fuse box top connector near center of connector
Tachometer
Lights (+) 18ga. Lt. Green left of steering column in 7 pin connector or 18ga. Brown at driver’s kick panel
Lights (-)
Brake Lights
Door 1 18ga. Orange (-) (driver door) at driver’s kick panel
Door 2 18ga. Blue (-) at fuse box top right corner in White connector
Interior Lights 18ga. Blue (-) at back of fuse box top connector between Black and White wires, can be used as door trigger for all including hatch
Trunk/Hatch 18ga. Violet (-) at driver’s kick panel
Hood Pin
Trunk Release
Lock (switch) 18ga. Red (-) at driver’s kick panel in door harness, White connector
Unlock (switch) 18ga. Pink (-) at same (1 of 2 this color), use with 18ga. White (-) lever wire to override switch lockout
Driver Unlock 18ga. Violet (-) at same, same as disarm key listed below
Arm (key) 18ga. Green (-) at same, also locks doors
Disarm (key) 18ga. Violet (-) at same, unlocks driver door on 1st pulse, unlocks all doors on 2nd pulse, HATCH ONLY OPENS WHEN ALL IS UNLOCKED
Arm Input 18ga. Blue (M) at same in Gray connector
Disarm Input 1 18ga. Pink (M) at same
Disarm Input 2 18ga. White (M) at fuse box in White 18 pin connector, top corner of plug, connector sits between 2 Black connectors
Year(s): 2005-2007 Make(s): Toyota Model(s): TC As Of: 08/12/04
12 Volt (+) 12ga. Red or 16ga. White at ignition harness
Ignition 1 12ga. Blue at same
Ignition 2 16ga. Yellow at same
Ignition 3
Accessory 1 16ga. Gray at same
Accessory 2
Starter 12ga. Black or 16ga. Green, both must be used for remote start
Horn 18ga. White (-) at fuse box, right corner, second connector from the top or at back of fuse box top connector near center of connector
Tachometer
Lights (+) 18ga. Lt. Green left of steering column in 7 pin connector or 18ga. Brown at driver’s kick panel
Lights (-)
Brake Lights
Door 1 18ga. Orange (-) (driver door) at driver’s kick panel
Door 2 18ga. Blue (-) at fuse box top right corner in White connector
Interior Lights 18ga. Blue (-) at back of fuse box top connector between Black and White wires, can be used as door trigger for all including hatch
Trunk/Hatch 18ga. Violet (-) at driver’s kick panel
Hood Pin
Trunk Release
Lock (switch) 18ga. Red (-) at driver’s kick panel in door harness, White connector
Unlock (switch) 18ga. Pink (-) at same (1 of 2 this color), use with 18ga. White (-) lever wire to override switch lockout
Driver Unlock 18ga. Violet (-) at same, same as disarm key listed below
Arm (key) 18ga. Green (-) at same, also locks doors
Disarm (key) 18ga. Violet (-) at same, unlocks driver door on 1st pulse, unlocks all doors on 2nd pulse, HATCH ONLY OPENS WHEN ALL IS UNLOCKED
Arm Input 18ga. Blue (M) at same in Gray connector
Disarm Input 1 18ga. Pink (M) at same
Disarm Input 2 18ga. White (M) at fuse box in White 18 pin connector, top corner of plug, connector sits between 2 Black connectors
I can't find the door inputs! They should be negative triggered, so I put my multimeter red lead into a 12v constant, and touch the black lead to all of the oranges i see while my driver door is open, but i get nothing.
Which orange wire is the driver door input?

...or the bottom one not shown on the pic?
...or is it none of these?
Thanks,
Brett
Which orange wire is the driver door input?

...or the bottom one not shown on the pic?
...or is it none of these?
Thanks,
Brett
In Plug #4 pictured above, that orange w/ silver stripes goes from 10.5v when the door is open to 12v when the door is closed, i assumed it would be varying from 0 to 12v.
I also can't find the driver (blue) door input, so any help would be great.
Brett
I also can't find the driver (blue) door input, so any help would be great.
Brett
it could be any orange wire there, i don't remember mine too well cause it was over a year ago and haven't done another tc since then. but test all the orange and close the door and if you get a positive then that's your door input. i'll check mine over in abit and let you know where each wire was and which colors they are. i install factory systems so the one you got might have more or less wires but we'll see.
Take it to a professional before you fry something. It is not going to be Plug one or 2, those are coming from the door, most likely its going to be number 4. Another easier way to find that orange is go to the sill plate, open that wire loom and find it there. If you test it, with the door open it should read 0 volts, door closed 12v, so it would be a negative system. With the locks, you need to use the 2 wires connected to the door cylinder, do not use the switch wires, or you will not be able to unlock since when the computer turns off it locks out the unlock switch so no one can reach in to unlock the door via the switch. Also when unlocking it requires a double pulse to unlock the entire car, first pulse unlocks the drivers door, second pulse all other doors. Also don't forget to get a Transponder bypass module for your key, otherwise the vehicle will not start with no transponder signal.
Any other questions? 10 years in the remote start biz!!
Any other questions? 10 years in the remote start biz!!
Originally Posted by Ragingbull78
Take it to a professional before you fry something. It is not going to be Plug one or 2
for 10 years i have never used t-taps, i don't like them, will never use them ever, all my electrical in my car is striped and wrapped then crimped then taped. T-taps to me are a big no-no, but that is my own opinion
Right now, i'm still planning on using my stock key fob to start the engine, so bypassing the transponder shouldn't be an issue.
I had the negative door inputs backwards, i thought they'd be 12v when the door was open -- that may be why i couldn't find it. I'll go look again now.
Thanks,
Brett
I had the negative door inputs backwards, i thought they'd be 12v when the door was open -- that may be why i couldn't find it. I'll go look again now.
Thanks,
Brett
^^ dude careful with the install, there's a lot of wiring with alarm installation, even professionals take sometime figuring out (unless they know the vehicle). Alarm systems are also diffrent so a professional installer maybe will have problem figuring out unless they have their hands on your alarm. And as adviced take it to professional, if they mess up, they fix it.. If you mess up, you'll be in more mess.. But a rule of thumb, dont do anything stupid.. Good luck and have fun.
Originally Posted by zzzBrett
Right now, i'm still planning on using my stock key fob to start the engine, so bypassing the transponder shouldn't be an issue.
I had the negative door inputs backwards, i thought they'd be 12v when the door was open -- that may be why i couldn't find it. I'll go look again now.
Thanks,
Brett
I had the negative door inputs backwards, i thought they'd be 12v when the door was open -- that may be why i couldn't find it. I'll go look again now.
Thanks,
Brett
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