carpc / carputer advice
I'm looking for advice from anyone who's installed a computer in their tC, preferably an 08 model. Specifically, I'm interested in the following points:
1. Best / safest method to draw power: Direct from battery? Accessory fuse panel? Splice from head unit? 12V/120W jack in the lower console box? I read on mp3car.com that 10A is good for a small PC, which leads me to believe that the jack in the lower console box is a good bet, but I haven't read anyone who's done that. Something tells me it's just not safe. What do you guys think? If it's okay, the lower console box might be a great place to install a computer. It'd be very tight, but it even has the AUX input right there for audio. Eh, now I'm thinking ventilation might be an issue.
2. Display: Out of the tC carputer installs I've seen, they've all consisted of mods on either the dash or the screen itself. Are there any touch screens that fit in the double din slot without mods? Maybe a 6" screen instead of a 7" one? I'd like to keep the door, and make it as reversible as possible.
My goal is to install a modular carputer with minimal impact on the stock elements of the car, i.e., a carputer that can be uninstalled without ever knowing it was there. Is it possible? I'm going to find out.
Thanks
1. Best / safest method to draw power: Direct from battery? Accessory fuse panel? Splice from head unit? 12V/120W jack in the lower console box? I read on mp3car.com that 10A is good for a small PC, which leads me to believe that the jack in the lower console box is a good bet, but I haven't read anyone who's done that. Something tells me it's just not safe. What do you guys think? If it's okay, the lower console box might be a great place to install a computer. It'd be very tight, but it even has the AUX input right there for audio. Eh, now I'm thinking ventilation might be an issue.
2. Display: Out of the tC carputer installs I've seen, they've all consisted of mods on either the dash or the screen itself. Are there any touch screens that fit in the double din slot without mods? Maybe a 6" screen instead of a 7" one? I'd like to keep the door, and make it as reversible as possible.
My goal is to install a modular carputer with minimal impact on the stock elements of the car, i.e., a carputer that can be uninstalled without ever knowing it was there. Is it possible? I'm going to find out.
Thanks
1. direct from the battery with this: http://mini-itx.com/store/?c=10#p1830 you can find these on ebay (has a wedge fuse built in)
2. my 7" lilliput fit perfectly in the spot where my radio door was. a few screws and the door was out. i can put the door assembly back in (everything completely back to stock)
3. love my glovebox. so much room to change out components (especially if something fails)
, won't get too hot, etc...
pics are here: http://javawacked.com/scionpics.html
parts are here: http://javawacked.com/scionmods.html
p.s. some of the components have changed since the pictures were taken...
2. my 7" lilliput fit perfectly in the spot where my radio door was. a few screws and the door was out. i can put the door assembly back in (everything completely back to stock)
3. love my glovebox. so much room to change out components (especially if something fails)
pics are here: http://javawacked.com/scionpics.html
parts are here: http://javawacked.com/scionmods.html
p.s. some of the components have changed since the pictures were taken...
Thanks Javawacked. That Lilliput fits like a glove!
Maybe I'm being too conservative, but I'd still like to keep the din door on (it's gotta be possible -- this guy did it) and I'd also like to avoid having to buy a separate amp (by using the AUX input in the lower console or on the head unit if there is one).
Also, I looked at the spec sheet for the mobo you linked and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears to draw under 10A even at its maximum on the 12V rail. Makes me wonder if the 12V/120W jack can handle it...
Maybe I'm being too conservative, but I'd still like to keep the din door on (it's gotta be possible -- this guy did it) and I'd also like to avoid having to buy a separate amp (by using the AUX input in the lower console or on the head unit if there is one).
Also, I looked at the spec sheet for the mobo you linked and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears to draw under 10A even at its maximum on the 12V rail. Makes me wonder if the 12V/120W jack can handle it...
Originally Posted by nsfx
Also, I looked at the spec sheet for the mobo you linked and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears to draw under 10A even at its maximum on the 12V rail. Makes me wonder if the 12V/120W jack can handle it...
the power supply has power headers just like an amplifier: power, ground and 12v remote turn on.
let me explain how i wired my power supply...
i ran the remote from the red accessory wire on the radio harness to a switch that i located to the factory switch panel (right next to the powermate **** and mirror adjusting control) then to the power supply. i did this so that i could override the computer automatically turning on. i don't want the computer running before the inside of the car has a chance to cool down, especially now that summer is coming.
i found a good ground point behind the glovebox.
the power goes from the battery straight to the power supply.
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