I am currently running a temporary setup in my 07 tC consisting of 1 15" Audioque HD15 off of a 2,500w Cadence amp. This setup was taken out of my last car and put in the tC to see what bass would sound like in the tC.

Well, it's been a year now and i am familiar with it so i ordered 100sqft of Rattle Trap from Fatmat and installed some of it the other day before it got too dark.

I am planning on installing probably 50sq ft just in the trunk.

I have installed approx 25 sq ft right now with all of it just on the floor in the hatch area and 1 sheet behind license plate.

Vibration problems and goals-

Goal-
The setup that is suppose to be in this car is 2 Fi 10" BLs off of 4,000w. This will be a lot louder and will require the car to be super sound deadened now compared to this install.

Problems-

License plate- The license plate is still causing noise. It shimmers and hits those stock foam pads and causes the license plate to shimmer due to it's force.
What would you do to fix this?

Hatch door-
The ENTIRE hatch door from the bottom of the spoiler to the bottom of the license plate covering the whole width from brake light to brake light is flexing causing tremendous resonance.

I haven't taken apart the hatch door interior yet but i seen a pic from Mandos and noticed that there are a lot of empty slots in the hatch door with a lot of wires and wire loom.
How would i go about securing the vibration on a surface like this? I think i am suppose to use liquid deadening in the slots but do not know if there are restrictions to how much is too much because i have never used liquid deadening before.

I planned on installing about 5-7 layers of 80Mil mat across the hatch door to secure it's vibrations.

I currently have 3 layers of 80Mil on the trunk floor and it made a big difference in sound quality. I think 3 will be enough for sound quality laying but to prevent rattles, i'm looking at up to 7 layers - 560Mil.

Any help on above solutions and any experience of those who had large stereo systems?

 

well is that amount of power necessary? Are you going to any car audio shows or is it all just personal? Anywho, i had the license plate rattle a while back when i had my JL sub in. I took a couple of pieces of foam tape and put it on the edges of the license plate frame and that stopped it. I also had the hatch itself rattle like it wasnt locked right. I put some foam tape like in the pics and have yet to hear it again...

wrap it with electrical tape about 2-3 times.








I would really just use it as where you hear it. Dont start putting that stuff everywhere cause sometimes it might just cause a big mess. I would just put about 2 layers in the bottom hatch and thats it. Anywhere else might be useless. If anything i would put some thin foam tape or cotton around the plastic clips that clip onto the cars interior? Might help a bit also.

 

thanks man.

I used to go to shows but because rules are so specific now, it's pointless anymore. This is just for personal use. It shouldn't be no more than $4,500, that's not bad. At least i can resell it later.

Anyway- actually, my hatch door, the exterior panels are flexing causing the noise "i assume". I pressed up against the door as hard as i could with both hands and 1 knee and it finally stopped so i know it's possible.
My side panels on the outside of the car, right between the back of the door and the rear wheel, they both flex like crazy. It's funny lookin really but it's a work in progress.

My goal is- If i run out of ideas to prevent rattle, then i will only install a sound system loud enough before rattle reappears.

 

I dont think the 10" BL can take 2k watts daily.

 

it can't. Most people assume it "might" possible, theoretically take probably, more than likely or not, but try it anyway power is 1,500 -1,700w per sub. That's with all the options required to get it that high even. Gotta look at it this way-
These amps i'm gonna use are strapped( AND stable at 1 ohm strapped, simply amazing) at 1 ohm producing 4,000w rated.
Get those subs both in dual 1 ohm wired to a 1ohm load.

However, due to resistance rise when playing music, these subs are going to typically see a resistance range of about 2.3-8ohms. The closer they are to port tuning, the higher the resistance goes. That's where it gets interesting because if the resistance drops too much in the higher end causing major power draw without too high of a db level for that frequency range, the 30band EQ will just be set to cut that frequency down or just begin the x-over at that point and let the mids pick it up from there. If the resistance started to drop too low before port tuning, that's what the subsonic filter is gonna prevent. It's not just for preventing over-excursion, i use it for power handling as well.

All in all, i only expect these subs to see on average of about 1,100w peak rarely around 1,500w. It should be fine.

 

I can get my 15" BL VC smelling a bit with a RF T10001BD amp.

 

That's a clipping issue, man. And if i was wrong about that, then it's moving too much.

I use an oscilloscope to setup all my amps now. I got mine for only $240. Portable like a DMM. It's the best car audio investment i ever bought. I went through 3 pairs of 6x9s one year. It finally ____ed me off enough to buy an oscilloscope. What you know the next 6x9s i bought lasted for 2 yrs straight and still work. They sounded just as loud too.

The thing is, just because 1 frequency isn't clipping doesn't mean the rest arent! That's why EQ's come in handy.

If you know someone who has an o-scope, use it or watch someone check out your tune on your amp.
What i do is after i set my desired subsonic and x-over, i play a disc which contains test tones that i make produced at 0db amplitude so once it's set, even bass tracks won't cause clipping!

If my frequency range has 60 frequencies, i will play every 3 frequencies afterwards to get the best tune without taking forever to check settings.

You gotta go over your tune, or i have to, about 3-4 times and retune certain frequencies before the entire playable frequency range is not clipping. Then you won't have any problems.

My current temp setup-
1 15 off of a 2,500w amp. Sub's only rated for 1,000w

It's been through 2 yrs ran off of the same amp.

The last box it was in(this is not in my tC, it's too big), 8 cu ft box dual vented with 200sq in of port tuned to 29hz. Ultra low tune. Took it fine.

 

the hd3's are very very under rated. i have heard of people putting 3000-4000 watts on them for daily music and having no problems. the single hd315 might get louder or equally loud as the 2 ten inch bl's. if all depends on tuning. the hd's like to be tuned at 38-42 hz and they even still sound pretty good tuned that high.

do you have pics of the hd315 in ur tc?

oh and your 100% right about clipping. to much power is waaaaay better than dirty clipped power. my front comps are rated for 60watts rms but i have them on an amp that can do just over 205 watts rms per side. it's all about setting the gains correctly and having control over the volume ****.

 

i wont post pics of the 15 in the tc because i have it in a sealed box! yep, the box that it is oh so not designed for. However, it still sounds good surprisingly.

 

from what i heard the hd315's in the right ported box are crazy loud and can have pretty good SQ as well. why not build the right box for it and keep it?

 

i know it's loud with the right size box. That's the WHOLE key, the right size box.

Requires 4.5cu ft box in addition to a very large sq in area for the port. The external dimensions alone would take up every bit of 6cu ft.
Now, add batt(s), amps... impossible to fit in a tc.

If you have AutoCAD, i can send you the cad file that i made for the tc showing dimensions of the hatch area and box sizes that can fit.

 

whats autocad?

 

the #1 choice for engineers to draw blueprints or basically any design to build... anything.
Any large government organization will use it as well.
NASA uses it.... They used it to prototype the first 3D printers that was able to build a lifesize human skull.

http://store.autodesk.com/DRHM/servl...0&Currency=USD

You can get the light package for $900 or the Real Autocad package for $4,995

 

holy moly, why would i need a $5000 program. hahaha

thanks though.

 

because it has helped me design speaker boxes and and decide on what will and will not fit in vehicles.

We also used it to re-decorate our entire kitchen one year.

 

shizzzon = baller!

 

I am about to do the trunk in my tC and the foam tape is a good idea, but I also wanted to do fatmat or dynamat or Elementals liquid.

any suggestions on what to use, or how many sq feet of the dynamat I need to do the trunk right?

I will be running 2 kicker L5's with about 2000 watts of power

thanks for the help!!!!

 

I had a gen 1 XB and the hatch flexed and rattled pretty badly. I filled it with house insulation (the pink stuff). It worked great! No more flexing. The license plate didn't rattle. The pink stuff is fire retardent and in the hatch there's no way water can get to it so it's perfectly safe to use. Oh, and it's CHEAP!

 

hey you know what, that's not a bad idea...

Doesn't that stuff come in different thicknesses or just different lengths?

That could\would save a pretty penny in door rattles, great idea.

Scott8 - i don't know even an estimate on how much you would "need".
All i did was buy a 100sq ft roll of Rattle Trap from Fatmat, the best stuff they got for $210 and runnin 3 layers of it everywhere. If i need more, i got more left. 3 layers of Rattle Trap is 240Mil.

 

You can get different thicknesses. I don't know if I'd use it in the door. Water gets in there and the insulation will soak it up and get moldy. I'd only use it in location water can't reach.