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DIY: Illuminate your tC on the inside, and out - Updated!
DIY: Illuminate your tC on the inside, and out - Updated!
Legal Disclaimer Blah: I am not responsible for the multitude of things that can go wrong. You are choosing to perform these modifications at your own risk. I am not forcing you to do any of it, thus, as previously stated, I am not responsible for what you do! Anyway, without further ado:
Ok, so i have been wanting to illuminate my car, so i did it, and you can too! With this hopefully pretty easy way to do so.
Step 1: Order LED's
You can get LED's from Oznium or from eBay.
I planned on using:
4 LED's for the Front Cup Holders (2 for each Cup Holder)
1 LED's for the Change Holder
4 LED's for the Front Speaker Grilles (2 for each Speaker Grille)
6 LED's for the front Airvents (1 for each Airvent, but 2 for the Center Vent)
2 LED's for the Door Handles (1 for each Handle)
Total: 17 LED's for the Front
4 LED's for the Rear Cup Holders (2 for each Cup Holder)
6 LED's for the Rear Pockets (3 for each Pocket)
4 LED's for the Rear Speaker Grilles (2 for each Speaker Grille)
Total: 14 LED's for the Rear
That's 31 5MM LED's, I bought 40 just to be safe.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need a Hot Glue Gun, Wire, Bullet Butt splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Splice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), Electrical Tape and a 3/16 Drill Bit
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3. Gut your tC.
Mandos has a very comprehensive tC gutting how-to, you can view it by clicking Here
But if you decided not to follow the link, here is my simplyfied version of gutting your tC.
I took out my rear seat cushion, my side panels, hatch floor, and hatch panels.
(This is a perfect time to eDead or Dynamat your tC while its gutted)
Step A: Remove the rear seat bottom.
Just pull it out from the edges, you should hear 4 popping sounds, at which time the bottom is deattached, and then you can store it somewhere outside of the tC.
The Places to Pull:
Don't forget the seatbelt clips!
The Removed Bottom:
What it looks like afterwards:
Now you are ready to remove the door floor wiring covers.
Step B: Remove the door floor wiring covers
Just pull from the bottom, you will hear popping sounds as you pull up.
What to pull:
Where to pull:
What it looks like afterwards:
Step C: Remove the Side Panels
Push IN the little plastic piece up into the grocery hook, and then turn the hook 90 degrees, and then pull it out.
The Grocery Hook:
The Pin:
Now just pull straight back from the bottom, you will hear popping sounds, its ok, nothing is breaking.
Where to pull:
Pull on the Sides, where the door closes
Once you have pulled it out and hear no more popping sounds when you pull, you will have to pull it towards front of the car.
You will hear a grinding sound, that is the material that prevents you fron squashing the side panel. You can choose to keep them or remove them.
What it looks like afterwards:
Step D: Hatch Parts
Pull the Hatch Mat out, simply turn the locks to the unlock position and pull it up.
Turn the locks inward
And Pull up on the ribbon
Pull the Styrofoam like Containers out, just pull straight up.
What it looks like:
What it looks like afterwards:
Now use the open spot in one of the containers as a place to put all of the bolts and hangars that are going to be taken out next.
Step E: Remove the Hatch Latch Panel
Just pull this straight up
What it looks like:
Removing it:
Step F: Remove the Bolts
You will need to remove 4 10MM bolts and 2 Screws. One bolt and one screw on each panel, and then one bolt next to the far seat anchors
For the seat anchors, you have to pop up the cover to reveal the bolt. Just use a Small flathead to accomplish this task.
Where to put the Flathead:
What it looks like:
Putting then in the container:
Step G: Remove the Grocery Hooks
Simply run your hand along the edge inside the panel, and push the pin out
What it looks like:
Removing them:
Putting then in the container:
Step H: Remove the Tail Light Wiring Covers
Simply push in on the lever and push forward
What it looks like:
Removing Them:
Step I: Remove the Rear Hatch Panels
Just pull out. You will hear a popping sound, and they will come off.
What it looks like:
Removing Them:
What it looks like afterwards:
And this is what your tC looks like when it is gutted:
Step 4: Drill the holes for the LED's
Ok, this is pretty straight forward, for the front Cup Holders, there are plastic parts that stick out the bottom, just rest the drill bit on that piece and drill forward. For the rear, you can do the same with the Cup Holders, but the pockets have to be drilled from above if you plan on keeping those yellow things there.
Step 5: Insert the LED's
The LED's wont go in without a fight, but they fit nice and snug. For the rear pockets, you are going to have to bend the wires from the led at a 90 degree angle to get them in, assuming you are keeping the yellow stuff, which i did.
Step 6: Seal the LED's with Hot Glue
Duh...Just secure the LED's with hot glue, don't worry, they are snug and fit, the hot glue is just a second precaution, that wont ever be needed.
Step 7: Wire the LED's together
I grouped all of the positives for the front Cup Holders and Change Holder together, and all of the negatives for the front Cup Holders and Change Holder together.
I grouped all of the positives for the rear left and rear right Cup Holders and Pockets together, and all of the negatives for the rear left Cup Holders and Pockets together.
I then took small lengths of wire and ran the wires from the speaker LED's to the other LED's. Then I twisted them all together, and crimped them into a butt splice. I then put a little bit more wire and crimped that one to a bullet butt splice, which are the coolest things in the world, since they allow you to pull parts out without having to cut wires.
Here are some pictures of that:
[img]https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t52/STNC777/Suede%20and%20LEDs/IMGP0018.jpg[img]
Step 8: Run the wires to a power source and switch panel
Then i ran the wires from the side panels to front, the passenger side wires have to be longer, because they have to go a loner distance to reach the switch board.
Step 9: Reassemble your tC
Reverse! Reverse! The Disassembly
(If you were curious, the Reverse! Reverse! is from the Cha Cha Slide)
Step 10: Revel
Rejoice in the new found glory of your light up tC!
Intermission
Ok, now for the DIY on Wheel Well LED's (Prewiring)
Ok, so as i was working on my tC, i noticed a spot that would be great for running wires to the wheel wells in the rear.
Step 1: Buy the LED Strips
Again, you can go to Oznium or from eBay. Its the same product.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need Wire, Bullet Butt Splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Cplice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), and Electrical Tape.
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3: Wire you tC,
I just took a 30ft spool of wire from Wal*Mart, pulled a decent amount of wire out, and I ran it from the back to the front.
The suitable place for mounting the strips in the rear wells
This is where the rear wiring starts:
Here is where i ran it from in the outside of the tC to the inside through the trunk through these vent things.
I just ran the wires up
and over
and through the woods
to grandmothers house we go...not
Then you run them through the kick panel, you can just pull it on the edges just enough to let the wires through.
Then behind this panel and then through the center console to the switch panel
Step 4: The Front Wells
The front wheel wells are much easier to work with, just pull the wires through the plastic guard, and then run them through the firewall to the switch panel.
This is the Firewall:
Just squeeze it in, and then you can tape the wires to a coat hangar to get them in/out.
Step 5: Revel In Victory
Yay!
Intermission
Another Prewire DIY - Rear Hatch Panel Cathodes
Step 1: Order Cathode's
You can get Cathodes from Oznium or from eBay.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need Wire, Bullet Butt Splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Cplice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), 3M Double Sided Tape and Electrical Tape.
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3: Cathode Placement
Use 3M double sided tape and tape the cathodes side by side on the overhang of the hatch panel.
(At the moment the box is representing the cathodes, I will have real cathode pictures Friday 10/5/07)
Drivers Side
Passenger Side
You can then run the cathode wires up by pushing the fabric or whatever material in and running the wires through.
(At the moment the blue wire is representing the cathode wires, I will have real cathode wiring pictures Friday 10/5/07)
The Transformers can be mounted on the inside of the overhang, a strip of 3M Double Sided tape will help keep the transformer there.
(At the moment the box is representing transformer, I will have real transformer pictures Friday 10/5/07)
Drivers Side
Passenger Side
Step 3: Wiring
Connect Bullet Butt Splices to the transformer wires, so you can remove the panels without having to cut the wires.
Follow these simple steps to getting the transformer power wires to the switch panel, and yes, i did copy and paste from the steps above.
I just ran the wires up
and over
and through the woods
to grandmothers house we go...not
Then you run them through the kick panel, you can just pull it on the edges just enough to let the wires through.
Then behind this panel and then through the center console to the switch panel
Step 4: Reassemble your tC
Just reverse the disassembly
Step 5: Revel
Again, take pride in your work!
Your tC is now ready to accept wheel well LED's, (Flex Strips), and your panels are illuminated!
F.Y.I.
I will be posting a D.I.Y. on Wrapping your Headliner and Pillars in Suede next Friday.[/img]
Ok, so i have been wanting to illuminate my car, so i did it, and you can too! With this hopefully pretty easy way to do so.
Step 1: Order LED's
You can get LED's from Oznium or from eBay.
I planned on using:
4 LED's for the Front Cup Holders (2 for each Cup Holder)
1 LED's for the Change Holder
4 LED's for the Front Speaker Grilles (2 for each Speaker Grille)
6 LED's for the front Airvents (1 for each Airvent, but 2 for the Center Vent)
2 LED's for the Door Handles (1 for each Handle)
Total: 17 LED's for the Front
4 LED's for the Rear Cup Holders (2 for each Cup Holder)
6 LED's for the Rear Pockets (3 for each Pocket)
4 LED's for the Rear Speaker Grilles (2 for each Speaker Grille)
Total: 14 LED's for the Rear
That's 31 5MM LED's, I bought 40 just to be safe.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need a Hot Glue Gun, Wire, Bullet Butt splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Splice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), Electrical Tape and a 3/16 Drill Bit
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3. Gut your tC.
Mandos has a very comprehensive tC gutting how-to, you can view it by clicking Here
But if you decided not to follow the link, here is my simplyfied version of gutting your tC.
I took out my rear seat cushion, my side panels, hatch floor, and hatch panels.
(This is a perfect time to eDead or Dynamat your tC while its gutted)
Step A: Remove the rear seat bottom.
Just pull it out from the edges, you should hear 4 popping sounds, at which time the bottom is deattached, and then you can store it somewhere outside of the tC.
The Places to Pull:
Don't forget the seatbelt clips!
The Removed Bottom:
What it looks like afterwards:
Now you are ready to remove the door floor wiring covers.
Step B: Remove the door floor wiring covers
Just pull from the bottom, you will hear popping sounds as you pull up.
What to pull:
Where to pull:
What it looks like afterwards:
Step C: Remove the Side Panels
Push IN the little plastic piece up into the grocery hook, and then turn the hook 90 degrees, and then pull it out.
The Grocery Hook:
The Pin:
Now just pull straight back from the bottom, you will hear popping sounds, its ok, nothing is breaking.
Where to pull:
Pull on the Sides, where the door closes
Once you have pulled it out and hear no more popping sounds when you pull, you will have to pull it towards front of the car.
You will hear a grinding sound, that is the material that prevents you fron squashing the side panel. You can choose to keep them or remove them.
What it looks like afterwards:
Step D: Hatch Parts
Pull the Hatch Mat out, simply turn the locks to the unlock position and pull it up.
Turn the locks inward
And Pull up on the ribbon
Pull the Styrofoam like Containers out, just pull straight up.
What it looks like:
What it looks like afterwards:
Now use the open spot in one of the containers as a place to put all of the bolts and hangars that are going to be taken out next.
Step E: Remove the Hatch Latch Panel
Just pull this straight up
What it looks like:
Removing it:
Step F: Remove the Bolts
You will need to remove 4 10MM bolts and 2 Screws. One bolt and one screw on each panel, and then one bolt next to the far seat anchors
For the seat anchors, you have to pop up the cover to reveal the bolt. Just use a Small flathead to accomplish this task.
Where to put the Flathead:
What it looks like:
Putting then in the container:
Step G: Remove the Grocery Hooks
Simply run your hand along the edge inside the panel, and push the pin out
What it looks like:
Removing them:
Putting then in the container:
Step H: Remove the Tail Light Wiring Covers
Simply push in on the lever and push forward
What it looks like:
Removing Them:
Step I: Remove the Rear Hatch Panels
Just pull out. You will hear a popping sound, and they will come off.
What it looks like:
Removing Them:
What it looks like afterwards:
And this is what your tC looks like when it is gutted:
Step 4: Drill the holes for the LED's
Ok, this is pretty straight forward, for the front Cup Holders, there are plastic parts that stick out the bottom, just rest the drill bit on that piece and drill forward. For the rear, you can do the same with the Cup Holders, but the pockets have to be drilled from above if you plan on keeping those yellow things there.
Step 5: Insert the LED's
The LED's wont go in without a fight, but they fit nice and snug. For the rear pockets, you are going to have to bend the wires from the led at a 90 degree angle to get them in, assuming you are keeping the yellow stuff, which i did.
Step 6: Seal the LED's with Hot Glue
Duh...Just secure the LED's with hot glue, don't worry, they are snug and fit, the hot glue is just a second precaution, that wont ever be needed.
Step 7: Wire the LED's together
I grouped all of the positives for the front Cup Holders and Change Holder together, and all of the negatives for the front Cup Holders and Change Holder together.
I grouped all of the positives for the rear left and rear right Cup Holders and Pockets together, and all of the negatives for the rear left Cup Holders and Pockets together.
I then took small lengths of wire and ran the wires from the speaker LED's to the other LED's. Then I twisted them all together, and crimped them into a butt splice. I then put a little bit more wire and crimped that one to a bullet butt splice, which are the coolest things in the world, since they allow you to pull parts out without having to cut wires.
Here are some pictures of that:
[img]https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t52/STNC777/Suede%20and%20LEDs/IMGP0018.jpg[img]
Step 8: Run the wires to a power source and switch panel
Then i ran the wires from the side panels to front, the passenger side wires have to be longer, because they have to go a loner distance to reach the switch board.
Step 9: Reassemble your tC
Reverse! Reverse! The Disassembly
(If you were curious, the Reverse! Reverse! is from the Cha Cha Slide)
Step 10: Revel
Rejoice in the new found glory of your light up tC!
Intermission
Ok, now for the DIY on Wheel Well LED's (Prewiring)
Ok, so as i was working on my tC, i noticed a spot that would be great for running wires to the wheel wells in the rear.
Step 1: Buy the LED Strips
Again, you can go to Oznium or from eBay. Its the same product.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need Wire, Bullet Butt Splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Cplice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), and Electrical Tape.
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3: Wire you tC,
I just took a 30ft spool of wire from Wal*Mart, pulled a decent amount of wire out, and I ran it from the back to the front.
The suitable place for mounting the strips in the rear wells
This is where the rear wiring starts:
Here is where i ran it from in the outside of the tC to the inside through the trunk through these vent things.
I just ran the wires up
and over
and through the woods
to grandmothers house we go...not
Then you run them through the kick panel, you can just pull it on the edges just enough to let the wires through.
Then behind this panel and then through the center console to the switch panel
Step 4: The Front Wells
The front wheel wells are much easier to work with, just pull the wires through the plastic guard, and then run them through the firewall to the switch panel.
This is the Firewall:
Just squeeze it in, and then you can tape the wires to a coat hangar to get them in/out.
Step 5: Revel In Victory
Yay!
Intermission
Another Prewire DIY - Rear Hatch Panel Cathodes
Step 1: Order Cathode's
You can get Cathodes from Oznium or from eBay.
Step 2: Gather other materials
You will need Wire, Bullet Butt Splices, Butt Splices, a Wire/Cplice Crimper, a Wire Stripper, Zip Ties, Heat Shrink Tubing (Only if you have to splice wire, and if you aren't using Butt Splices), a Lighter (Only if you are using Heat Shrink Tubing), 3M Double Sided Tape and Electrical Tape.
Here is a picture of most of the materials
Step 3: Cathode Placement
Use 3M double sided tape and tape the cathodes side by side on the overhang of the hatch panel.
(At the moment the box is representing the cathodes, I will have real cathode pictures Friday 10/5/07)
Drivers Side
Passenger Side
You can then run the cathode wires up by pushing the fabric or whatever material in and running the wires through.
(At the moment the blue wire is representing the cathode wires, I will have real cathode wiring pictures Friday 10/5/07)
The Transformers can be mounted on the inside of the overhang, a strip of 3M Double Sided tape will help keep the transformer there.
(At the moment the box is representing transformer, I will have real transformer pictures Friday 10/5/07)
Drivers Side
Passenger Side
Step 3: Wiring
Connect Bullet Butt Splices to the transformer wires, so you can remove the panels without having to cut the wires.
Follow these simple steps to getting the transformer power wires to the switch panel, and yes, i did copy and paste from the steps above.
I just ran the wires up
and over
and through the woods
to grandmothers house we go...not
Then you run them through the kick panel, you can just pull it on the edges just enough to let the wires through.
Then behind this panel and then through the center console to the switch panel
Step 4: Reassemble your tC
Just reverse the disassembly
Step 5: Revel
Again, take pride in your work!
Your tC is now ready to accept wheel well LED's, (Flex Strips), and your panels are illuminated!
F.Y.I.
I will be posting a D.I.Y. on Wrapping your Headliner and Pillars in Suede next Friday.[/img]
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 289
From: Tennessee
Good write-up on good locations to run wires, but as a DIY overall it's not too detailed. Mounting location pics of the wheel well LED strips and cathode placement in the trunk would be better, and a little more detail on disassembling the panels would be nice as well. You gotta realize anyone advanced enough to remove all the panels is probably advanced enough to run their own wires...
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,447
From: Conway, AR
This is not really a complete DIY. Its pretty basic and u'd have to pretty much already know how to do this stuff to find it helpful. Step by step it and include all those details u assume people already know. Pretend ur making it for a person whose never worked on a car b4.
Thanks for the feedback, i will update it with a more thorough disassembly, as more detail in general. I will be reassembling my tC on Friday after i get my suede installed. I need more wire, lol.
Former Sponsor
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 849
From: Bay Area, CA
Here's some other helpful resources for beginners:
Cathode Install DIY: http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic11823
Underbody Install tC: http://www.oznium.com/articles/15
How to tap power from your battery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1zH020tVpk (Please excuse the bad acting ;))
Cathode Install DIY: http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic11823
Underbody Install tC: http://www.oznium.com/articles/15
How to tap power from your battery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1zH020tVpk (Please excuse the bad acting ;))
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 127
From: 3rd Star to the Right
stnc. i did the dynamat in my car and lost all the pics of disassembly when my hd crashed. i thought you pics were great and the write-up was real nice. i am fairly competent with wiring, so i didn't need the real basic instructions. nice job man! btw, what seat cover kit do you have? i think it says "airbag" on the side of the front seat. is that right? i didnt know that aftermarket seat kits had airbag labels.... cool