Neothin

so, i think i've finally decided to get some audio for the tC. Here's what I'm thinking

Headunit- Eclipse AVN5435
Subwoofers- 2x JL Audio 10W6v2's
Front Components- JL Audio XR653-CS 3way Components
Rear Speakers- Stock, run off headunit + sound faded forward
Amplifiers- 2x JL Audio 500/1 (one per subwoofer), JL Audio 300/2

yeah, JL ***** I know, but i'm getting cut a rather nice deal for brand new equipment, so i can't pass it up. I know 3way components are a pita, but hey, i'm getting some custom kick panels + door panels made up for them, so no biggie. I just want to make sure that the components are going to be able to keep up with the 1000 watts of thump in the trunk

Now the part that I'm kind of on the wall about... the wiring aspect.

Alright, I'm going to get an Optima yellowtop up front and put a second one in the rear. 1/0 awg between them. I've heard of an isolator needing to be used. What is this, what does it do, and how do i wire it? Does the wire running from the positive post of the front optima to the postivie post of the rear optima need a fuse? if so, what size? I'll be running the big 3 in 1/0 in the engine bay as well. Does the Alternator--> positive post run need a fuse? what size if necessary?

Alright next up, for running power leads to the amplifiers from the rear battery, I want to get a positive battery terminal that will allow for a 1/0awg output and a 4 awg output. the 1/0 will be split via a fused distribution block to 2x 4awg runs which will run to the 500/1's. I need help with fuse sizing here. the 1/0 fuse should be what size? the fuses in the distro block running to the 500/1's should be what size? the 4awg comming off the battery going to the 300/2 should be fused at what?

For grounding... the ground between the 2 batterys. what would be better, running 1/0 from the front battery negative post to the rear battery negative post or just grounding the rear negative to a well prepped frame point (sanded of all paint/grease/etc)? For grounding the amplifiers, would it be better to combine all the 4awg ground wires together into a single 1/0 wire via a non-fused distribution block and then grounding that to the battery or screw the combining and just ground to the frame?

RCA's, the eclipse HU has 3 rca pair outputs. F/R/Sub. the front obviously goes to the 300/2. For the subwoofers though, i'm going to need a set of y splitters to split the sub output up between the 2 amplifers arent i?

yeah, i think i'm done askng questions for a while

Zebman

If your amp has an RCA pass through channel, you can run RCAs from that into the other amp. Or you can get a Y splitter, doesn't really matter.

I don't know about grounding directly to a second battery. If you want my opinion, an Optima battery isn't going to be doing much for you without an upgraded alternator. It will only allow you more time listening when the car's off. Two is definitely overkill for the watts you are pushing. It will most likely fry your alternator too from excessive current draw.

Fusing is a touchy matter to me, as i'm not that well equipped in electronic knowledge. This helped me decide what fuses I needed.
http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp

The big 3 is a good idea to do, and will do a lot more than adding another battery.

That's my two cents.

Yanki01

i have 10w6v2 with the 500/1 right now and it puts out some serious bass! But 2, thats alot! Im glad i got CDT's comps to stay up with it. i hope you have some 12v fans running on those amps. good luck and you'll love JL

Neothin

i doubt the xr components are going to be able to keep up with the bass comming from the back. They can only handle 70w RMS according to JL. I'm going to have to keep the gain on the 300/2 down quite a bit because of this. It puts out 150w RMS per channel. I'm also going to keep the gains on the subwoofer amplifers down quite a bit so that it sounds more balanced.

This is mostly a show system, but i do want it to sound correct. Everything is getting glassed.