dynomat doors pictures request
Anyone have pictures of dynomating their tC doors? I want to know all the places to put the dynomat so absorb as much vibration as possible.
don't use dynamat. its way to expensive. its like a buck a square inch. Edead from elemental designs is a buck a square foot. I just did my whole door. the whole thing. With the price of three square feet of dynamat i did both the doors inside and out
or use Raam Mat. (pm Raam Audio) I got enough from 1 roll to do my doors and rear passenger panels, a trunk, another half a trunk, and I still have some left over.
Anyway, just put it wherever you can. You generally want to slide pieces behind the holes that are in the door so that the sound deadener is literally on the outside frame part of the car. Anywhere else that can't be reached doesn't really need to be done.
Someone chime in if this is wrong....
Anyway, just put it wherever you can. You generally want to slide pieces behind the holes that are in the door so that the sound deadener is literally on the outside frame part of the car. Anywhere else that can't be reached doesn't really need to be done.
Someone chime in if this is wrong....
this is a little extreme, but gives you a good idea of what you need to do
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925
if you look on ebay you can get dynamat xtreame for a good price. there are cheaper alternatives but looking at the comparisons of all the different brands out there, dynamat is on the top.
But to apply it, you want to cover as much body panels as you can. ideally the main thing is to get the inside of all the outer skins. Then if you have any left over, start with the inner skin on the door. if you do both parts, it will provide you with a very DEAD door. mine sounds like concrete when you knock on it.
But to apply it, you want to cover as much body panels as you can. ideally the main thing is to get the inside of all the outer skins. Then if you have any left over, start with the inner skin on the door. if you do both parts, it will provide you with a very DEAD door. mine sounds like concrete when you knock on it.
I totally disagree. Dynamat is only rated well bc everyone uses it and they never get to try either stuff. Having both dynamat and edead in my car i will never get dynamat ever again. Its way to expensive and for the price i could edead my car 4 times. which i plan on doing.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24
point made. SAVE $$$ and edead your car. you wont regret it
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24
point made. SAVE $$$ and edead your car. you wont regret it
well if money is your #1 concern, then go with edead, thier products are great and i like supporting small companies anyway. But if you have the extra cash, go with dynamat xtreame or second skins damplifier
I suggest you read up here
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
I suggest you read up here
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
damplifier pro is what i'll be going for when i decide to buy a decent sound system. living in florida where the car bakes in the sun for hours on end for 10 months out of the year, the heat handling ability is golden to me
that is old. since then edead has come out with the paintable and the edv2 and many others as well as improving their sound deadening. It now is not alsphault based and is a much better product.
Ended up getting 45$ worth of eDead v1 and did my front doors (inside and out), rear panels, trunk floor and inner fenders, and hatch lid. I had about 1.5 sq/ft to do both license plates as well
.............nothing rattles anymore. I'm only going to get component speakers and and a head unit after xmas so i'm not going to push too much. Just want a decent sounding stereo.
.............nothing rattles anymore. I'm only going to get component speakers and and a head unit after xmas so i'm not going to push too much. Just want a decent sounding stereo.






