I'm building a sound system, and I'd like to route a 0 awg through the firewall, without having to snip a hole in that famed large rubber grommet were the wires go through to the engine bay.

So, I'd like to install a PG34- 3/4" pro grommet for 0ga firewall bushing, and it needs a 1 inch hole in the firewall to fit in. are the corresponding enginebay/interior locations (shown with targets symbols) in the following animation the same? Is this a safe spot to drill? I've got an automatic 2007 tC, so I guess I don't have to worry about a clutch slave cylinder being in the way and stuff.



But yeah, are these spots connected? And if so, is there anything important inside the firewall at this spot? Will I have to remove the dash? Is this even something I could drill through with a dremel? I was thinking of drilling a small hole, then widening it to 1".... otherwise, I guess I'd have to try with a regular drill and a 1" hole saw.... unless that is also impossible.

thanks for reading.

 

For saftey and other reasons, you are way better off running anything bigger than 4 gauge under the car and coming up in the trunk through the many rubber grommets. At the very least, drill the hole where you need it in the back and use your 1" bushing there.

 

I only have 12ft of 0awg though... and looking under the car on the driver side, there's these metallic pipe looking things running parallel to each other from front to back where i'd otherwise clamp my 0 awg to...do they get hot?

and then how would i route up into the engine bay? what do i avoid?

 

That is where the clutch would be, btw, so if you plan on staying auto just go for it and get the rubber grommets they sell at ACE or Loews that fit the wire. The metalic pipe is the fuel line and it wont hurt anything to run the wire along it they don't get hot or anything and I doubt you could create enough static to bother the fuel. A lot of people have removed the carpet and center console to run the wire along the middle of the car for a clean look, however.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-3706.../dp/B000934LBC

 

Thanks... I may just run it under if I have enough... or just splice with a 0 awg butt connector if i don't.

but just in case, are you confirming those two spots with the target marks match for sure?

btw, what is that thing sitting on the far back right side of the engine bay?

 

Please run your wire on the inside of the vehicle. I honestly hate when I see people try to run it on the outside. There is no reason to.

 

To tell you the truth, that is what I'd like to do the most. I actually bought my 0 awg wire used from some guy who had it installed in his jeep running under his vehicle. lucky he loomed and tech flexed most of it, but the foot or so that was not protected on its way into the vehicle was filthy, dry and sliced to hell... actually, here's the post from the DIYMA thread with pics of the damage:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/1221396-post20.html

You can see the copper oxide inside the crack, which is about 2 feet from the end of the 14 ft cable. I'm planning on hacking this section off, which will leave me with only about 12 ft of usable cable, and all the more reason to route from trunk, under door trim, then through firewall bushing. I'd then only have maybe 2 feet or so of cable running outside to the battery.

My biggest hurdle here is that firewall. I already have the bushing, I just need to make a hole.

By chance, do you (or anyone else) have any experience using a unibit? I heard that's what I'd need for the job. If so, do I need some kind of uber-powerful drill to make use of one? Or will a regular handheld gun drill be fine for the job? I was hoping someone here would have mad skeelz with this kind of thing.

Come on all you jedi Scion modders, where are you?

 

This is what you need to drill the hole, use moderate pressure and low speed until you start the divot then just push and squeeze. You don't need a super powerful drill or anything I have used it on a teeny tiny palm drill that has no speed setting; it works perfect on sheet metal.

If the wire has oxidation I would cut that piece out.

Don't run it under the door trim because it will never fit on correctly with that wire under it. You can run it down the center of the car under the center console and under the carpet for a clean install. The car was made by Lego so everything just pops off with little effort.

 

I have been professionally install car audio for many, many years. Run your 0 gauge under the center console. I have managed to run it on the sides of the TC with no problem, its just a little more difficult. I use my normal snapon drill with a 12" extension that attaches to the unibit. If you have problems with the bit walking on you (where it just slides around instead of grabbing) you can take an old screw driver, and sharpen it to a point. Then take a hammer and use the screw driver as a punch, hitting the clutch plate. This will leave a dent and allow your bit to drill through nicely. The grommet shown above is a great way to do it as well, but for 0 gauge I would drill my own hole.

 

thanks Hix and mattieg, 1000 pts to both of you.

test fitting the 0awg, it is very snug and does not leave room for other wiring i need to put in - so i think under the carpet it will go. I was actually sort of intimidated by the idea, but like you both said, i'm thinking I will try and attempt getting it done like this:



btw, would you say drilling the clutch plate is basically impossible without removing the dash? i can barely fit one arm up there as it is...but damn i'd like to just leave the dash on if it was possible. i'd be worried of launching the airbag or something...

 

Just to let you know you might need more the 12 feet of wire depending on where your mounting the amp cause I ran mine and had 15 feet and needed about 5 more to get from the battery to the back passenger side of the hatch.

 

yeah, im thinking maybe i'll just get a couple extra feet and splice with something like this if i have to:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/pr...&CategoryID=10

be a shame to get a completely new cable.

the only thing is, i'd probably have to make damn sure that splice connector is well insulated with shrink tube or something.

 

What I did was bought a amp distribution block and drilled it in to the body underneath the sub floor near the spare tire. Nice thing about it to is if you decide to run more amps later no need for a seperate cable to be run. I'll take a pic and post how its mounted.

 

Drill from the engine bay, it's a lot easier to remove the intake pipe for room.

 

Yes, please get a distribution block if you need more cable. If you get that coupler you posted and shrink wrap it, you still have a possibility of it grounding out and blowing your fuse.

Have you looked at those extensions for the unibit at lowe's or home depot? Thats what I use every day when I drill through the clutch plate.

 

Hmm, I forgot to mention the 0awg will go from the battery to a distro (one 0awg in/two 4 awg out), then to two amps each connected to the distro with two feet of 4awg. So the 0awg + distro + 4awg will make the total length about 15 feet or so. I'd rather just get more 4awg if I need more length, obviously. But yeah, as little exposed power cable is my ideal.

extentions? hmm, haven't looked yet - have an example of one just to make sure i know what you're referring to? telling from the prices for unibits online, i might just be better off trying to get some local shop to do it without f'n anything up. even if i took the intake out, i dont know how i'd reach back to the clutch plate through engine bay - might be where that extension is needed. that transmission fluid thing (white container at rear/right of engine bay) looks like it might need to come out too to have enough space - which means i'd need to collect old fluid, declamp hoses, etc etc....dunno if i have everything i need to do it.

 

I tried to find you the model number. But if you go to home depot you can find a 12" extension. Basically you thread one end in the chuck of your drill and the other end has two torx screws that screw into your unibit.

By the time you spend 40 bucks on your unibit and another 20 on the extension you might as well pay someone to do your dirty work.

 

What do you guys recommend for battery terminals? Just any old 0 awg +/- terminals? Or some specific brand/model?

How about 0awg directly to battery with large ring connectors, and no special terminal add ons?

 

You could, but battery terminals are a nice touch to make things clean. I just started carrying the kicker stuff. But its 30 bucks a terminal.