how do i know which resistor is which for the swap which one is the 680 ohm, 560 ohm, 43 ohm, 420 ohm and 130 ohm, they are not labeled as such, they have different numbers actually on them.....any help please???!!!

 

anybody??????

 

uhh the numbers on the resistor tells u which one they are.

for example: 43ohm is "430"

 

ok, well, what resistor is 195.....189...131...???, its the kit garage 1217 sells for this, so im sure they are the right resistors, just are not marked exactly as you need them....thats my question, if anyone knows.

 

189 is really "681" you're reading it upside down. And thats 680ohms. And so forth

 

i'm sorry, i know that's an easy mistake to make. it just looked hilarious lol

 

hahaha, word, i gotcha, thanks bro, pardon my blonde moment, or my form of dyslexia

 

yeah.. same thing for the 561.

that's 560 ohms. for resistors, the first two numbers is the value multiplied the last number to the 10th power.

so "561" is 56 x 10^1 = 560

get it now? (oh and if there's four numbers it's the first three numbers x last number to 10th power (i.e. "1330" = 133 x 10^0 = 133))

 

np,

dont crack the LCD screen!

 

will, not having one of the many resistors put on cause your entire hvac to not light???, help plz!!!!, hahahaha, im a performance mod wiz, not so much a tech. wiz...

 

depends on which one is missing. Is it not lighting up?

 

no its not, and ____!!!!, i just realized i cracked the lcd, am i screwed??, hahah, and will this cause the entire hvac to not light up??

 

o man, I said dont crack it!

A cracked LCD screen by itself if wont cause the LED's not to go on. You messed up somewhere else too.

The problem now is, you cant just buy a screen...

 

gotcha, but wtf??!!!, its not like im a soldering virgin.....how the hell could i have gone wrong??

 

Garage explained to me while doing my swap that you have to use a solder remover and essentially get all the solder out and just let the lcd kinda drop out... you CANNOT pry out the hvac lcd, it breaks, and then you have to find a new hvac unit.
the lcd on the cluster is in a socket so it can be pulled out i believe.. correct me if im wrong

 

does anybody have any info on which direction the resistors and led's need to be soldered in???, could that be the reason for the lcd's not lighting up??

 

resistors generally don't matter, leds.... the boards should show the plus side of the led, and on his leds, i believe they have a notch on the negative side. shoot him a pm....
it's been months since i've talked to him and longer since my led swap

 

uhh. there's arrows on the board that tell you what direction the led is supposed to go on.

leds are polarized, resistors are not... the led itself has a notch denoting the cathode (negative side) and resistors... it doesn't matter what direction they're put on as long as they're put on.

 

damn!!, well yea, my bad, all of my led's are soldered in correctly, it has to be the, my 10 v regulator must be messed up then, or not soldered in with good contact, that is the only other reason i can think that its not lighting up.

 

The picture you see next to an led that looks like this:

->|- tells you which way they go. The triangle points to the cathode (the notched end on the led).

If only a few leds are not lighting up, the regulator is soldered in correctly. If none of them are, it is possible that it is the regulator.

To remove the solder on the HVAC you can use a solder sucker or solder wick. I can do it equally well with either one, but if you have never used solder wick, or not very much, the solder sucker will be a better choice for you. You can get a cheap, heated one from radio shack for about 10 bucks or so.

I actually use a solder sucker, then get what it misses with solder wick.

Check car-part.com for a new HVAC. It will be listed as Heater/AC control.