No, your car wouldn't "die" right away if the alternator is putting out 14amps (a bit unrealistic, even for a HO sure), because the CURRENT demands will be met by the battery. The 14 amps will still be used to charge the battery - even at a loss.

OH, and are you going to post why Nodsetse, and I are incorrect? Or are you going to continue to spout off worthless and unsubstantiated comments??? I suggest you be careful about calling me out - 'cuz I've got tons of ammo on you....

 

PS - "Amperage" is just fine - it's interchangeable with "current". Want me to "CITE" (not 'site' - moron) my source??? :D

 

Now rocketgyrl, are you running a different alternator?

And if so, which one? PLEEEEEASE!!! Pics if you have them...

 

Man I love when an educated female tells it how it is

 

x2

 

 

Wow...I forget to include the website, and I'm hanged.

Anyway, I did not use an aftermarket HO alternator, despite the extra points I missed out on within car audio competition. I argued there's no need for one with a sound quality system - drawing only a modest amount of current, and certainly well within the OEM alternator's capabilities. I DID however perform the "Big 3 Upgrade", and noticed a HUGE difference! I also used the OEM battery, and didn't have any electircal issues.

 

How much current were you drawing? WHich amplifiers, etc? I'm just curious.

ANd you're correct on not needing much electrical for a SQ system.

 

amperage is not accepted in the electrical engineering program (as i have taken about 6 courses from them and when someone said amperate the professor laughed at them). say amperage but i'll continue to laugh at you. its current it has always been current and will always be current.

As far as current draw divide your watts (rms not MAX) by aproximately 14 volts to get your maximum current draw.

now thats just your system. you need to include all of your other accessories which for your battery to maintain the voltage is about 30-45 amps. THIS IS ROUGH and does not include losses due to resistances and other things.

 

I'm using an Arc Audio FD4150 and FD1200 - so theoretically 1800 watts. This would mathematically (NOT 'real world') equal a current draw of 150amps at 12VDC, and 125amps at 14VDC. With music playing, the current draw would NEVER be this high.

Don (Nodsetse) mentioned that SPL competitors use HO Alternators at engine speeds (limited in competiton) to 2000RPM (IIRC). This is because they have a more exponential output curve (similar to a turbo charged engine's output), vs. the OEM unit with a more linear curve (much like a NA engine's output). The HO Alternators, with the help of a smaller pulley, will give them more current at 2000 RPM than an OEM unit. Of course, it takes power to make power, and like a turbo charger will use more fuel, the torque required to turn a HO Alternator is greater than an OEM alternator.

I was going to ask you - what are your system goals? SPL competition? What amplifiers are you using? What (if any) electrical system upgrades have you done? ie: "Big 3", battery, etc. Why do you feel the "need" for a HO Alternator?

 

I'm looking for more of an SQL system. I want it loud but to also sound good on music. I frequent other forums such as www.realmofexcursion.com/forum and www.hexibase.com/forum. The sub amplifier I willl be using is a Sundown SAZ-3000D. From all my research, this amplifier is really effecient and makes gobs of power. I just don't want to fry it due to low input voltage.

If I hit a 150 on a termlab meter, I'd be ecstatic. If I hit a 145 with music, I'd be pretty darn happy. I really doubt I'll be running this amplifier at full tilt 100% of the time. Also, I'll be running this amplifier in a 2ohm load. THe amplifier makes most of it's power at 1ohm. But I may change subwoofers to Digital Designs 9512g's...

You are totally correct about the alternators. I had one on my 95 GMC extended cab truck. I had one battery and a 200amp alternator with a Directed 2400d on a 2ohm load. Never had dimming lights, even with my air compressors running.

 

sql doesn't exist.

 

*rolls eyes*

 

ask rocketgyrl if it does you can't go either way, you can't have a system set up for spl and have it compete in a sq competition or vice versa.

 

This is true, but there is a lot of variants.

I'm building my stereo to be decently loud and sound well while doing so. I'm not out for 100% SQ, otherwise I'd have an infinite baffle/aperiodic setup instead of a rear loading horn with 2 12's...

If there was a meter from 1 to 10, 1 being SPL and 10 being SQ, I'd pick a 4. How's that?

 

well seing as you're geared towards spl rather than sq you'll be going to want to get a HOA, do the big three, a couple of batteries and maybe a batt cap. I'm assuming you'll be running close to 2000 watts rms and whats i think where i would draw the line

 

Awesome!!! Thank you for your amazing input!! I really appreciate it!!

 

sarcasm?

 

Nah, bro! Forums are here to help people! I do appreciate your help and input. Sarcasam would pretty much defeat the purpose, right?