texashornsfan10

Please give me some input on how good this brand is. I have recently found a 2000 Watt amp and two 12Inch Subs that are 500RMS Watts each for a total of $220. They are both made by Lanzar so tell me if i should trust them.

Amoxaphobic

I have personally never owned any of their stuff, but I have heard their stuff before. Though the stuff was generally not installed the best possible way, the sound was still ok. So, it's very possible that with a good install, the sound would be pretty good.

I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for. So if you are going for show quality or competition, then this might not be your best bet. But for $220, it's def worth a try.

...IMO

tCTaco

iTrader: (1)

Lanzar use to be one of the best brands you could buy back in the day. ..early 90's stuff

PhilDis

i wouldnt mess with them, you do get what you pay for. Go to www.etronics.com They sell 12" Alpine type X's for 250. One of those will sound better than 2 Lanzers. You can get a audiobahn A8000t for real cheap on e-bay. I dont think you can get a better bang for your buck literally than these 2 products.

I dont know if you have an aftermarket head-unit or not, but Norcalscion.com sells a wiring harness, and a complete wiring kit for 89.99 shipped. Its all plug and play, and perfect for a baller on a budget.

nodsetse

Ya, they had some good stuff back then. The company was bought out by a larger corporation at some point and Lanzar became a budget brand, with low to mid quality products.

In this situation it's a matter of budget and expectations. I'm sure some people would be pleased with such a deal, but others might want to spend a bit more in an attempt to ensure higher sound quality. And don't forget how much installation counts, regardless of the brand and cost of equipment.

shizzzon

Sound Around owns Lanzar and other companies that in the audio world are considered "flea market" crap.

However, Lanzar did come out with a Competition line that actually does what it is rated to do and is used by competitors. This line is called OptiDrive and anything manufactured under that product line is not cheap quality.

I will actually be buying one of their 4,000w class d amps for just over $900, not bad at all.
They did just release a 6,000w amp retailing over $2,000 but i do not need that, ....that's ridiculous for a daily driver in a tC.

nodsetse

Unfortunately that's somewhat misleading, because the old Lanzar brand had their own OptiDrive line back in the 90's too.

shizzzon

Well, i am letting everyone know that the 2000D and the 4000D have been tested and used in comps because this is the ONLY line that Lanzar offers right now that does rated power.

2000D rated at 2,000w @0.5ohms Tested to do 1,967w @0.5ohms with under 10% THD distortion but that test is so old, that test was done practically when that amp first came out.

The 4000D's Board is equivalent to that of Soundstream's 6500D

PhilDis

how do you wire something to .5ohms? any amp at .5ohms will push alot of power.

ill be the first to say that im not the most educated person in electronics, but ive never heard of any setup running at .5ohms.

shizzzon

well, i've been in the comp scene for a few yrs, never competed in sanction but have been around a lot of people and have worked on setups and messed with a lot of stuff.

The lowest i hvae heard running is 0.185 ohms. I can tell you how it's possible here but that would be like typing a book, hehe.

The Lanzar Opti2000D is the only class D amp i know that powerful that has a rating below 1ohm. Usually, I would only here of setups like that for quick burps but since it's stable @0.5ohms, then it's possible to burp that amp as low as 0.25ohms,or quite possibly down to 0.2ohms but that's in theory.

How would you wire that low?
2 Dual 0.7 DCR subs would be 0.175ohms in parallel.
2 Dual 1.4 DCR subs would be 0.35ohms in parallel.

You gonna love this one, hehe -
2 Quad 0.7 DCR subs would, in parallel be - 0.0875ohms!
However, that is not practical but would look interesting on a DMM.

trialsindude

Hahaha I can vouch for the Opti lines, they do their work!!

Also the SunDown SAZ-1500D can be wired down to 0.35ohm load for a nice 2245watts of power with a nice electrical system. But by that time, and that low of ohms you will run more volts, now the sub will have to handle that current without burning up!

shizzzon

Yep,but wanna know a secret?

I have heard that JBL's BPX line outputs it's power based on an 8 ohm load regardless of impedance rise!

What does that mean?

Take a dual 2ohm sub rated for 1,000w. That means that each tinsel lead can handle at least 16.5 amps,(33x33 is 1089w divide by 2, for each coil)

JBLs 2200w amp outputs only about 17 amps to reach 2200w+! That's double the wattage for the same amp output just about.

Now u gotta worry about excursion... Easy.
The larger the ported box, the closer the sub peaks at tuning, and at tuning is where the sub moves less!

Now the last thing is heat. Play for burps and u r fine.

nodsetse

How to wire .5 Ohms? One example would be a pair of subs, where each has dual 2 Ohm voicecoils. If you wire each sub's voicecoils in parallel, then each would be a 1 Ohm load. Then if you parallel the two subs, you'd present a .5 Ohm load to the amp.

Any amp at .5 Ohms pushing a lot of power? No, as most will blow up. You have to get an amp made specifically to handle such low impedances, and even then they're not all designed to produce a linear increase in output for each halving of resistance.

There have been several companies that made such amps over the years. Back in the 80's when they first became popular, competition people often referred to them as "cheater amps", because the classes were based on 4 Ohm power, and some of these amps could produce over 4 times that much into lower impedances. The first such amp was probably the Orion 225 HCCA, rated at 25wpc into 4 Ohms, but would actually produce over 400w when bridged with a 1 Ohm load.

Some amps, such as many Soundstream made in the 90's, had a switch to optimize their output for either high voltage (applying to higher impedances) or high current (for lower loads), such that you could get approximately the same power regardless of the load they're pushing.

PhilDis

thats crazy ive never seen a setup like that.

The ones that he is talking about though, i wouldnt trust.

shizzzon

trust? IF the amp is stable down to a certain ohm, then ....it' stable down to that ohm. As long as you do not drop below that threshold, you are fine.

A long time ago, Orion used to manufacture comp amps that were 0.25ohms stable!

trialsindude

Yeah also having the proper electrical system too, or else you will throw the amp into protection, or just burn it up!

Yeah those Orion amps are a killer too, I used to have an old 250HCCA, that thing was crazy, i think they rated it at 50watt x2 at 4 ohms. Wire it to 1 ohm load for 1 channel and you will get 800 watts, it was stable to 0.5ohms per 2 channel. That thing drew voltages like it was its job, it was in my old Z32, with stock electrical system at 1ohm voltage dropped to almost 10v running that thing at full tilt. Those are the old A/B amps for ya. And those watt rating is are 12V unlike now a day where everything is rated at 14.4v.

shizzzon

Ahh! I hate that! Everything rated above 14v.

Even CEA2006 certified amps can be 14.4v.

It should be 12.6v for everything, that way even the stock people can appreciate the specs.

I use a Cadence smart block so if voltage ever drops below 12v even, it shuts off all amps until the voltage is safe again which would only be for a split second anyway. I have only had it shut off when jammin with car off.

The more batts, the higher the voltage will stay before it dips low.

I'm gonna install a kinetik HC1800 under the hood of my tC sometime in the future.

I want to run 3 fi q 10s off a 3000w amp. With 300A alt. That's my plan right now